About: I have been playing for a little over 3 years. Self-teching for about 2 year and just started working on other guns.
If I answer one of your question and you need a little more explaining email me @ clayyalc@gmail.com
They all use springs. Not all you them as the power source. Any electric gun uses them to move the piston forward and compresses the air. Gas guns use them in the way real guns use them. Them reset the slide and power the trigger.
I personal use the madbull barrels in all my guns and They're the same price.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_72_375&products_id=24375
1. Depends if you like the gun.
2. Probable looks better.
3. It is going to as reliable as the care taken on it.
4. Going to be fine for woodland, really long range will just be lobbing them.
The only thing bad about to much oil is that it collects dirt very fast. I use the thicker oil for the slide and place that are not oiled by the gas. Really any oil work and every gun is different on how much oil it needs.
Needs to be checked and declared. No green gas/propane. Needs orange tip.
http://www.evike.com/index.php?option=com_fireboard&Itemid=62&func=view&catid=14&id=4637
Only if there rated for CO2. CO2 has more pressure and can have some problems in guns that are designed for green gas.
It would be like using racing fuel in an old car, you you ruin the engine.
VFC or G&G. Both are great guns. The CA is good and the Echo 1 is good for the price. Unless your into milsim I would not recommend the WE. I have seen way to many break and sit around a month waiting for the replacement parts.
A tightbore is all you need. I love Madbull Python V2 barrels. There 6.03mm and around $30. You could try a little red dot. It might help with your aim a little. NC Star make some good cheap ones.
What you should go for is your own opinion.
The GR16 Carbine Light Plastic is made for Canadians. So unless your Canadian I don't see why you would buy it.
1. Gun oils are ment for metal parts. Metal lube destroys the rubber on airsoft guns
2. You could just put a barrel condom on it. (You should use one anyways)
Shotgun + anybody = some pissed off elitist (if you can hit them)
Only takes one BB to get someone out. It doen't matter if it was shot from a gun that cost $50 or $1000.
I love them and have had two that are still perfect after a year of use. The 2/3A(small) should be charged around 1amp and the SC(big) cells be no more than 3 amps.
I would just leave it how it is. Repainting it will either leave a spot that looks different or if you paint the whole thing it will look fine but not have the trades. I think the scratches gives it a nice look (like it has been in combat).
The only difference is the frames. There different colors. Some have railed frames and other have a standard 1911 frame.
The best one is the one that you like the look of and matches your gear.
Yeah same guns. GI is running there safety campaign so they're giving you everything you need for the gun. It's worth the $10 you pay for it (the battery alone will cost you more than $10).
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=g%26g+blowback+disassembly&aq=0&oq=g%26g+blowback+di
I'm pretty sure its the same house or similar. Hope this helps
RIS and RAS are the same thing just different names. They both have picatinny rails on them
The diffence between picatinny and weaver is the spacing. The picatinny is usually used to describe a mount used by the military that has all the slots at the exact same distances so that you can move or change optics without screwing up the placement. The weaver rail is whatever the manafature makes it (no specs).
20mm rails are the same size they usually don't have any slots in them and only take a limited kind of mount.
For replacing the hand guard any RIS/RAS should work as long as it is designed for your gun.
Yes, they are 2-way radios. That only mean that they can both send and receive. They work with any other radio but CBs. You can make CB work with them but its hard to find a channel that works good for both.
I have a few Elite batteries and haven't had an problems with them. Intellect is ok, I've never had a problem with the SC cell I have. My 2 2/3A Intellects have both died.
I get them at Elite Airsoft Batteries or Cheap Battery Pack (same people 2 sites). You can get any configuration you want.
It's a decent vest, not the best build but plenty good for airsoft. I would look at something Pantac MPS chest rig if you run M4 style mag. Pantac make better quality rig. It is $80 but you don't have to buy pouches.
To my understanding they use propane because it is a lower pressure gas and doesn't need a regulator. HPA is around 3000-4500PSI in the tank. CO2 is usually ~800 PSI and propane is 70-200 PSI.
No you can't fit the M4 mag in the MK17. The MK17 is the FN Scar-H which chambers the 7.62 round and the MK16 is the FN Scar-L which is the 5.56 round. Both are AR designed mags but the MK-17 is much longer.
I wouldn't upgrade anything inside the gearbox until it breaks. If you upgrade parts generally break faster and you always have a problem.
A tighbore is all you need for the gun.
They are just the difference in strength of the spring. An M100 is about 100 meter per second (~330 FPS).
M120 is 120 mps (~400 fps).
M130 is 130 mps (~430 fps).
The extreme fire cheetah is one of the best I have worked with. I don't know if will fit in the ump. It says it is smaller than a stick battery so you might be able to get it in there somewhere.
http://extreme-fire.com/SW-CHEETAH-2N.html
Move the motor and see if that gets rid of it.
If that doen't work there is something wrong with your gears
I video on youtube of the problem would help us a lot, if you have the resources.
I love ASGI. People who say they have high prices don't look at the full picture.
Milspecairsoft is great
Evikes Ok (there customer service sucks)
Stryke Airsoft is good (they don't have a lot)
It all depends on how much you shoot. I don't go through rounds that fast so I carry 12 mids for field games. When I play CQB I carry 3-6 mags (depends on ROF of the gun and the size of the place and how long the games are). You just have to test it out a few time to find the number you want to carry.
One piece generally provides a better are seal than a 2 piece. Metal hop up are not necessarily better, G&G hop ups work perfectly fine and they are plastic.
The ported piston is to increase the efficiency of the air seal. It pushes air onto the o-ring causing a tighter fit on the cylinder. Unless your lossing FPS or opening the gearbox I wouldn't worry about it. If you get one don't get caught up in the fancy designs. The basic one work just as well.
1. Take off the hand guard
2. Remove the pins on the sight and pull it forward
3. Pull out the gas tube
4. You should of gotten a wrench with your gun. Use that to take off the D-ring off.
5. Take the barrel out and be careful not to loss the pins.
Hope this helps.
It's because on the last shot there wasn't enough gas to blowback far enough to hit the slide lock. Then with no BB in the chamber there is no pressure build up to engage the blow back function, so the gas cut off lever isn't hit.
The Well should have a bipod without the little skids on it, the Ares should have skids.
The Well I don't recall has an engravings/writing on the receiver, again the Ares should.
The muzzle break on the well should of housed the orange tip. On the Ares it should be under the break.
Also the Well should have a 15-17 round mag and the Ares should have ~23 round.
I have had a similar problem. It might be some part of the blowback housing geting stuck on the hammer. It can be caused by the base of the hammer wearing down.
Hope you can fix it.
Bushing generally refer to "ball bearing". They create less drag when turn. I think there the best for the average gun (300-375FPS, 20-25 RPS). Bearing refer to solid ones. They are the best for very high stress applications (high FPS or RPS)(less moving parts, mean less to break).
You moved beyond a noob if you stopped caring about what other label you. People just like to label themselves so they fell better about themselves. Basically there is no level of airsoft player, just the players and the want-to-be.
This is the only way I know that works good. Other claim that they work but I haven't heard of one that works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPK9MIJRrhA
Even if you don't have a TBB you should still clean the barrel every time you use it. I love the MadBull Python Series. There 6.03mm so there not going to jam if you forget to clean it one time.
First I have used both gun and think that they are both great. The other comment says blowback is back which is kinda true and false. G&G's blowback is great, other companies not so much. I would go with the gun that you like the look of best, truly. I think that you would be happy with either. As far as upgrades go the G&G only needs a TBB. The Echo 1 is going to a little upgrading to perform like the other, not saying thats bad.
They most likely changed springs between when you bought your and they got theirs. I pretty sure they haven't moved away from their 25,000 rpm motor. They also could of changed the ratio of their gears a little.
The voltage of the battery can kinda tell you. Take a multimeter and check the voltage. On a full change it should be about a volt higher then the pack is. If it is lower on a full charge the life of the battery is low.
To put the AFG on the MOE hand guard you will need to buy the rails they sell for them.
This, but I'm not going to look where it's in stock for you
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6552
Designated Marksman Rifle. It's technically a version on the M14 but many people use it to refer to a semi-auto long rifle.
For airsoft it is just semi-auto with a nice long barrel and a scope.
For $200 I can tell you that it is not the real thing. Chances are that it is a pretty good replica. It's hard tell tell with know what one it is. I can tell you for real steel EOTECHs are worth the $500+ price tag they have
Push the front pin out, pull the charging handle and slide it forward. The hop up just slides in and out with a little force.
The dust cover will go down and get in the way so you will need to hold it up.
The other comment has great ones.
I like www.StrykeAirsoft.com
They don't have all the products in the world but the have good prices and free shipping on most items.
I depend on the kind of helmet. Smooth ones the curved sticky monts will work but if the helmet has a rough texture it wont work the greatest. You just need to play around to find the best mount that works for you.
The seat post mount can work for putting it on the barrel or buffer tube of the gun.
-High Quality footage
-Good footage (Look at some on youtube like scoutthedoggie‬)
-Get in the action (don't be afraid of getting hit when filming
-Just make videos (more experience the better)
-Watch youtube videos on making action movie
Just have fun doing it and don't get down when some random hater dislikes the video. Everything takes to happen.
They are not a company. Evike just takes random products and slap the the label on them. Most of the items are really cheap products. I would stick with a product that I know what brand it is.
The only company that I know of that has an internal/external barrel extension in one is the TSD of some of the M9s. Other than that no one makes after market ones to my knowledge.
A spring spring uses both of them to hold the tension on the the spring so the metal will give you more durability and give you the ability to to use heavier springs.
I know that Contours or GoPros can be attached to a gun fairly easily. I read somewhere that GoPro has plans for a mount to go on rails. Any POV camera will work.
Deans all the way.Tamiyas are cheap and can break really easily. They also have a high amount of resistance. The deans are very soiled connectors the have a lot lower resistance then tamiyas. They also are hard to break. I run them on all of my guns lipo or not.
It shouldn't break it that fast if it has G&P internals. Just make sure the battery has less then a 15C dump.
Post a link to the battery/charger.
You should have a balancer for any lipo battery.
Don't use spacers. Just get a bigger spring or a better air seal. The piston and spring guide together are only designed to fit springs at a certain length. Putting spacers doesn't allow the piston to go all the way the back and you will start to rip up some of the the teeth if you put a thicker spacer in.
Yeah you can. It basically whats in there already. There no point in opening a gearbox unless something breaks. Do break the magic of a G&G's gearbox unless you have to.
The design is so the spring when compressed there no twisting force on it by allowing it to spin. I personally think there a waste if you have a ball bearing on your piston. From my experience for a normal AEG to less moving parts the better.
All you really need is a tighbore barrel. I personally think the that madbull python barrels are the best you can get for an AEG for a good price.
If your not ordering anything else I would get it Stryke Airsoft because they have a good price and free shipping.
http://www.strykeairsoft.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6_64_135_137&zenid=1os5ucf1mk3j8bujsl884h23b1
If you wanting to order more than I would go with Airsoft GI
It's not worth it to upgrade FPS in that small of amount. The stress that you put on the gearbox is in no way worth 60FPS. You don't really get anything from moving from the low 300's to the high 300's. BB's will fly about the same. The best upgrade you could ever get for that gun is a tight bore barrel.
If your losing 10-20 FPS it's just the the grease wearing out and not that much to worry about. If your losing above 50FPS you most likely blow out part of an o-ring.
FIrst to put a M135 spring you need more than an air nozzle. You need a piston and some other stuff.
Second a lipo with a 30C dump is going to kill most guns. That is way to high for an airsoft use. You need a 15C, 20C at most.
The FPS is going to be around 420 to 440. It all depends on how good of air seal you have going.
I would because it is a mineral oil. Even on the "Full Metal" pistols most of the internals are rubber and plastic and mineral oil isn't good for them.
You really need the one designed with the light. The normal one isn't wide enough for the railed frame of your gun. If you got that one you would need to cut part of it away to use it.
So you need the :
BlackHawk Serpa Holster Colt 1911 Style w/ Xiphos Light
Unless you rib the bucking or are having problems with the hop up I wouldn't do anything. In my opinion G&G makes great hop-ups for 1J guns. The nub might be wise to upgrade. Something like the concave nubs are great because they are shaped for the BB. As others stated the degree is the hardness of the bucking. Soft for 1J guns harder for the 1.5J guns.
No it won't. The threads are generally finer on real steal. There are some receivers that have the same threads as real steal. Companies like Madbull make great replicas of some real steal rails that will fit airsoft guns.
If you can hear the motor it's not an electrical issue with the wires themselves. Chances are that your gearbox is locked up or your battery doesn't have enough juice to cycle the gearbox.
There good. If you like the SR-25 look. They have many parts that are only on that gun so it's going to be harder to get quality parts if anything breaks. The biggest concern I have about the gun is that it no longer comes with MOSFET or a reinforced steel tooth piston. At over 400 fps I would want to have a metal tooth piston.
There ratios for every gun and it just the one with the gun with the highest ratio. Your still getting a $160 gun for $120
There most likely not going to get the Battlestar again but they will have more mystery boxes at a later time. I going to buy one again.
The Echo 1 would be a good choice. The Echo 1 MP5s are CYMA internals (which are good) and good Echo 1 externals.
@cqbkilla Echo 1 MP5 are not the same as JGs.
Take the gun apart follow these steps. (disregard the first step, I copied it from another question).
1. Take paint off with paint thinner.
2. Scuff up surface with fine sand paper/ scuffing pad.
3. Clean the surface with paint thinner.
4. Let dry and tape off area you don't want painted
5. Paint first thin layer with a plastic/metal primer/bonder
6. Let dry 1 hour and paint and second thin layer of primer.
7. Let dry another hour
8. Paint first thin layer off the color you want
9. Dry another hour paint another coat and repeat again.
10. Paint a thin layer of a flat clear coat and put on 2 coats.
-Be sure to wait at least and hour between coats.
-Let dry, scuff, clean, and dry between every coat
-Don't do thick coats. They just peel off later. Thin coats are the key.
-You can use a stencil to get your design.
-You want 2 coats of the base, then the other colors only need to be one.
If you fire a few shoots on semi at a time and take care of it the .01 can be good. If you like to go full auto or don't want to clean it that much a 6.03 is great.
I will state they're all great guns. I like G&P, and G&G the best. G&P makes great gearboxes the take great to upgrades. I also love the externals of G&P's. They all have pros and cons, but you can't go wrong with any of the guns.
A set of helical gears will make it a little quieter. An all around great shims job helps. There are some thing you can stick on the end of the barrel but they do the same as a silent piston head.
1. You might of put something together wrong.
2. Your battery can't pull the new spring.
3. You have the wire on the wrong side of the motor.
Those are a few suggestion but there are tons of thing that could be wrong and it's hard to tell what is wrong with it by a short, basic description.
There both okay guns. They don't have the greatest internals. If you like the scar the D boys is okay. If you like the M4 you can find better guns for a simaliar price. The G&Gs Are about $20, look about the same and are better quality.
It depend on what breaks. Chances are nothings going to break anytime soon. If it breaks and the blowback piston is opened at all you will lose FPS. If it broke and the blowback chamber is sealed fine you shouldn't have any problems.
I haven't heard of any breaking under normal use. The few I have seen is when someone was trying to take it off and broke some of it.
Between the .28; .30 and .35 is just personal preference. Some guys like a little slower but less effected by the wind. Others like the light and fast.
It is basically a solid state trigger. The more advance ones control the current , changing things like the rate of fire. The 3-round burst can be pretty cool. I only have them on guns that I use a lipo on.
Steps for picking a gun.
1. Figure out what type of gun you want. (M4/M16, MP5, AK)
2. Get your price range.
3. Know what your going to be using it for ( CQB, Field)
4. Ask again here with that info and as much other info as you can think of
5. You should get a few recommendation
6. Decide based on the info and your research of it
Theoretically you could. Practically its not worth doing. By the time you get done getting everything it cheaper to get a battery for airsoft. Anyways AA rechargeable batteries don't hold charges like the cells designed to be put together
No it won't. The SC cells are too big to fit inside.
You need something like this. The 2/3A cells fit.
http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/products/102-elite-airsoft-1500-mah-23a-96v-nunchuck-battery-packsmall-type.aspx
Just a tightbore. The madbull python series are in my mind the the best barrel. The G&G bucking is great so unless you rip it you don't need a new one.
No, not for a 11.1v lipo. The gearbox and wires will not handle the stress and still have the same durability. Use can still use a 7.4v lipo if you want
SAS are like any spec unit, they use what is best for the mission. Most of them for CQB just wear a ballistic vest and have everything on thigh rigs. In terms of a standard load-out, most of them use a MOLLE vest and the pouches they need to have. Basically there is no one "load-out" for the SAS.
This could work. It might feel weird because of how far back it will be.
It all depends on what sling you have but something like this will work.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_95_180&products_id=5690
It could be a little less quality as one of the factors. Another is just the amount out there now. hypothetically if their failure rate is 2 out of 100 and two years ago there is only thousand, around 20 are going to have problems. Now say there ten-thousand, there are going to be around 200 with problems. That is one of my theories. Another I know of is people dropping 30C or higher lipo in it.
No, it's not. It only takes one BB to get some one out and it doesn't matter what gun it's shoot from. I love to go to the field sometimes and use my old spring shotgun.
You may want to look into the G4. There basically the same gun but some of them have looks similar to what your going for.
You need to think of where your going to put the battery.
1. Heat and a lot of force (Everybody has a different method)
2. You remove the front body pin, pull the charging handle, and slide the upper receiver forward.
3. I love the Madbull python series tightbore barrels.
On the dean connecter there is a little mark telling where the positive wire goes. An adapter is going to cost more then just soldering it on. Just your chose.
Elite Intellect or Tenergy are the best in my mind. All of them have great cell quality. You just have to make sure you get them from somewhere that builds them right.
Usually it is from the bevel gear being shimmed to low on the bottom. When the gearbox is open try looking at it level on a table. You should be able to see a little light between the gears. The top (wide part) should never really have more than .02mm shims on it.
With high ROF gun the less moving parts you can have to better. Ball bearings can fail overtime running at high speed. On all of my high ROF guns I run solid bushing with a solid spring guide.
The cantilever is just a different mount. It moves the sight up and forward. The use of it if you have a standard AR handguard it can move to sight over it to get it closer to the end of the barrel. I also think it looks better.
It will be fine. Just be safe with it. Don't hold down the full auto all the time. Also your trigger contacts will were out faster but there easy to change.
I assuming that you mean .12 g ammo???
If so you can put it in but that would be stupid. .12g ammo is low quality and breaks apart inside gun and will destroy the barrel if you use it.
You don't need new gear. I would recommend getting a new piston, piston head, and cylinder head with the spring. It would improve the gun and make it more consistent.
It is say.
You need gear grease for the gear. Silicone oil will just fly off.
You can use it to lube the air seal components. I would really recommend a gell based lub for it. They say on longer and don't evaporate as easily.
It it like 2-5 BB's that normal. It's because they are already past the mag stopper and in the hop up. The only way to not have this happen is a special hop up (Madbull's)
This question has been answered many time on the site before. Try using the search bar.
Steps for picking a gun.
1. Figure out what type of gun you want. (M4/M16, MP5, AK)
2. Get your price range.
3. Know what your going to be using it for ( CQB, Field)
4. Ask again here with that info and as much other info as you can think of
5. You should get a few recommendation
6. Decide based on the info and your research of it
I love Elite cell batteries. Tenergy and Intellect are great to.
http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/products/102-elite-airsoft-1500-mah-23a-96v-nunchuck-battery-packsmall-type.aspx
A tightbore barrel is the best upgrade to any AEG. The madbull python series is the best 6.03mm barrel out there. You just need to clean it every time you use it. Also a new hop up bucking is good. You can't go wrong with G&G, Mabull (blue ), or Systema hop ups.
Yeah it bad. Your charging it to fast.
First never touch the two wires on the battery straight together.
Next for a 1600 mah battery don't use the fastest mode. Use low (~1amp)
If you shimmed the bevel gear to high or low it could be causing that. You should never be putting more then what is need to clear the gearbox on the big side of the bevel gear.
If you want to put the battery in the front you need to rewire it first. Second you need a M4 trigger and selector plate. You also need a different air nozzle.
On the real ACOG it is what illuminates the sight. It is so soldiers don't run out of batteries in the field. On the airsoft version it just for looks.
It depends on were you play. If you play outdoors I would only suggest a vertical grip of some sort. If you play CQB the grip and a flash light are the best. I would recommend never put unnecessary items on the rail.
On the spring side there are tons of rifles with tons of upgrades available. My recommendation would be find one that you like the look of, research reviews, and then ask again here if you have any question about the rifle.
It's very difficult to recommend a rifle to you without know what feels best to you (If you comfortable shouldering the weapon), what you like the look of, and then what style of sniper you would be (sit and wait or moving alot)
It's not that hard to rewire. You just have to know how to disassembly the gearbox. A 9.6v stick is way to long to fit in a buffer tube. If your not comfortable with the gearbox I would have a pro do it.
Something like the TSD SD98 or the Echo 1 ASR are going to be the only with a left hand bold option.
Really in your price range you can most rifles and still have money to upgrade them.
You can put anything in water. A lot of thing will be damaged if you do. If you put they in water be ready to clean every last part of the gun and re-lube all of the o-rings
It's a good gun.
Why would you upgrade a AEG to 500fps? That is the biggest waste of money. To get a some what durable 500fps gun you need at least $500 dollars in upgrade parts.
They both have there perks. It really depends on what your play style is. I know people who just hate the "slow pace" of airsoft but other the love the realism (including being slow) or airsoft. It's all base on opinion and you might want to go try it out to form your. I like airsoft better so I trying to be the least bais that I can. For woodball I think airsoft is better but paintball is still fun. For speedball they both have perks. Airsoft is more of a realistic tactic where as paintball has tactics that are based on the course. I just saying one is not better than the other. I have fun playing both.
I can't say what gun is better for you or what your going to like better. You can go wrong with either of those gun. Just pick the one that you like the best.
To hit the 550 FPS mark you would have to change everything in the gearbox. Also I would question the durability of the shell with that heavy of spring. I would strongly advise against upgrading it to 550. If you really need 550 get a sniper. Even to make a M16 a 550FPS you need at least $500 of upgrades.
Unfortunately the front sight is part of the barrel so even if you chop it off there will not be the cuts to attach the gas block. I would either cut it nice and clean and paint it or just buy a new outer barrel and a gas block.
Watch his video about the "project" he's doing. Email him and see if he wants someone to do tactic as part of it. If you are good at making videos and good in fornt of the camera I would watch them.
Take off the two screws on the butt plate. Then get a long Phillips head screwdriver and inside near the top there is a screw (use a flashlight to find it). Just unscrew in and the stock will slide off.
It real depends on what/how you play. What works for me might not work for you. I would say if you play field a red dot is really all you need. If you play CQB a vertical grip and a flashlight do wonders.
It's something with the hopup. It's hard to tell with not seeing the gun in person. What I would recommend is contact the place you bought it and tell them of the problem.
They put they on gun so they can hide the battery and still have a realistic look. Low end crane stock wobble but something like the CA one has less wobble then a normal M4 stock. Batteries are only $30 and gun are $200-$300 at least. I would rather buy a battery for a gun than buy a gun for a battery.
Well is not a quality company and I would stay away from them. Also stay away from Airsplat there just a bad website all around. I would look into something like a JG one.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_166&products_id=2409
Thats why I recomended the JG MP5. It's like $110 and is a great starter AEG.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_166&products_id=2409
You need to be a little specific on what your gun is doing. Having "problems shooting" and "wont hold much gas" isn't detailed. You need to tell us if it's leaking or just will not fill up.
If you like AKs I would at CYMA's. They make great AK for a low price. Also they come with almost everything you need to start. If you want an M4 look at the JG. They both come with the gun, battery, and a charger. The battery isn't the greatest but it will do until you save a little more (and are still liking airsoft). The charger you just have to be careful with and not overcharge anything.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?cPath=139_24_166
http://www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?cPath=139_24_206
It depends on where you drill and how good of driller you are. Drilling in the back would be fine if you don't leave any sharp edges or burs. Drilling in the front you would loose all of the air pressure and you would have a really low FPS.
You don't necessarily need 100% silicon oil, that just a myth. You just don't want any oil that is petroleum based. There plenty on places online. Just type silicon oil into google.
I's how long the battery can put out a given level of power. The big the number the more you can shoot your gun before you have to recharge.
This website explains
http://www.windpowerunlimited.com/batteries/Amp_Hours.htm
It looks like it should work. If you haven't bought any yet I would just go silicon. Just don't use any petroleum based product as they will destroy the rubber seals,
Any WE 1911 is going to be a gas hog. You can upgrades so thing but there not guarantee to help any thing. Also your can of green gas/propane could just be getting low and not have the pressure to fill the mag all the way.
Rails aren't designed to fit anything in them. There are some that you might be able to get a small lipo into. If you get a RIS you either need a peq box, battery bag, or wire it to the stock.
There are some really expensive barrels out there that do that. There no real point for airsoft. The hopup would have no effect and the bb is going fast enough to fly straight with twist on it.
A gas gun will kinda work underwater. The slide will cycle but the BB won't shoot.The reason you would never do it is that it will get water every where. So you will have to disassemble it completely (down to every last screw) and clean it. Also it will wreck some of the plastic parts. So basically NEVER do it.
I hope you know that a M130 spring will give you about 420 FPS. Stock, I would not recommend put that high of spring in the box. Honestly to raise to FPS from 340 to 380 isn't worth it to upgrade.
CO2 uses CO2 cartridges. Gas uses Green Gas (propane).
Co2 is going to give a hight FPS but is more expensive.
Propane is cheap but will have a lower FPS.
This question has been answered many time on the site before. Try using the search bar.
Steps for picking a gun.
1. Figure out what type of gun you want. (M4/M16, MP5, AK)
2. Get your price range.
3. Know what your going to be using it for ( CQB, Field)
4. Ask again here with that info and as much other info as you can think of
5.You should get a few recommendation
6. decide based on the info and your research of it
I know for Both that they will send you an email. I think the Evike one has the tracking code on it. For the GI you just use the thing on there site and enter your order# and it should be on the ups tracking.
You only need a tight bore barrel and a new hop up bucking.
There are a lot of good barrels out. I personally love the madbull python II series. As for a bucking the madbull blue, systema, G&G. You can't go wrong with any of those.
It's a good gun for outdoor. As I have said many times on the site before FPS doen't matter. Of couse if you dropping below 270 or so it makes a difference. You always going to be able to shoot about the same distance with most gun. The problem is accuracy. Now with 350 FPS you can still use a .23g bb and be fine. Also to gun will last longer because there is less stress. The XL has enough barrel length to compete outdoor. I hit people with old original shotgun(~280 FPS) that I started just as easily as my custom M16. With my M16 I never really noticed much difference in performance when I dropped it from ~380 down to ~330. I really just saying FPS alone should not be a big factor of buying an AEG.
There are tons of great gun. You really need to decide what type/style of gun you want. More expensive isn't always better. I hit people with old original shotgun that I started just as easily as my custom M16. I only takes one BB to get a hit and the BB doesn't price of shooting it.
I think it is worth in if you are going to want to upgrade in the future. As with all A&Ks the internals are a little behind others in that price range. I mean it's a good gun and if that is the gun you want I would say go for it. Everybody is going to say to "Go with the G&Gs" and I would say that normally too but your not asking about a M4/M16. So if you like the Masada and don't want to go all the way to the Magpul Full Metal PTS Masada it would be a good choose.
Not really. I would stay away from them. For just a little more you can get a cyma.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_206&products_id=3110
I guessing you mean "Will a gas blowback stock fit on a JG S-system".
If so no if will not. AEG stock slide onto the back of the body and use a screw to stay on. GBB stock are like real AR stock. They screw on and have a tube inside for the bolt to travel into.
Just take the stock off by lifting the lever. After you get that off inside the buffer tube there is a screw. You just need to unscrew it and the buffer tube should slide off.
Just take the stock off by lifting the lever. After you get that off inside the buffer tube there is a screw. You just need to unscrew it and the buffer tube should slide off.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xq8ylAKn3go
Watch that. It explain what you need.
Personally I would never build an AEG with that high FPS. The reliability isn't worth the FPS. Higher FPS doesn't always mean better. I would say after you hit the 420 mark you get no gain of going any higher. At that point .25g and .28g bbs work great. Also that high of FPS is getting into the mean category.
You can just but a shorter barrel. The biggest problem your going to run into is the gun is way to hot for CQB. Something like a G4 build for CQB is going to around the same price.
It depends on a lot of things. First is game times. The longer it is the more you going to want. Second What role you play. Support gunners are going to need a lot more then the rushers. Next, what you yourself can carry. Also, Hi-cap vs Mid-cap.
I would say buy a pack of mids or a few hi-cap and see what works for you. I mean there is no set answer for you question because everybody needs a different amount.
Kinda, the lower is going to fit fine but you will run into some problems on the upper. The space above to gear box isn't right to fit the blow back unit.
G&G "can" run lipos stock. the question is the durability. I know some people who have ran theirs with a lipo and don't have problems. Other within a few hundred shoots something break. I wouldn't put the stock under the stress of a 11.1v.
There great little gun that last a long time. My only complaint was that the body cracked really easily. Other then that it was a good gun for me until I sold mine.
They use good quality cells and have quality manufacturing of the batteries. Companies like Tenergy and other I think are better but Intellect is the one that sells them through airsoft stores.
More weight is going to make it more accurate. The range goes down too. You kinda have to find the trade off of accuracy and range that is right for your play style.
Most are going to cost around $300-$400 for the base gun. They can be reliable but I would do some upgrading. So if I built one I would probably be spending ing the $500-$700 to make a good one.
From my experience if the battery is getting hot really quickly there is a short somewhere. Look at the wires that you can see. If there are any holes in the insulation try taking electric tape and wrapping it. If you can find anything is probable inside the gear box and you might want to have someone who knows what they are doing look at it.
As crazyNCman said there both new. That be said it's hard to say which one is better stock. The M24 is going to be easier to upgrade because it uses the VSR-10 platform. The M28 is a APS2 platform. There are many upgrades for both but the VSR-10 are more available.
They do that just because of the space and that is what the real steal does. The stock (a.k.a. the buffer tube) hold a buffer spring that lessens the recoil on the real steal.
G&G "can" run lipos stock. the question is the durability. I know some people who have ran theirs with a lipo and don't have problems. Other within a few hundred shoots something break.
I wouldn't recommend the high speed motor with a lipo unless your build a super high speed. You don't need the gear but they might be good. The spring is fine. They don't make 10.8v lipos. Only 7.4v and 11.1v for airsoft.
You just need a regular smart charger.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_74&products_id=1224
Don't use a lipo charger on batteries that are not lipos.
The only time I would buy a SRC is for a SRC. Other then that I would get the G&G over the SRC. It's not from the fact that they have "bad" internals but G&G just has that much better internals.
I live next door in SD. We play sometimes in the winter.
1. AEG will get really wet inside.
2. I found that duck hunting gear is the best.
3. Make sure there are no open wires. ( tape around any connection)
4. People tend to not run around as much in the winter.
If it is that low you might of put the bucking in wrong or the hop up is turned on far. If that is not the problem your piston head or cylinder head might be blown.
It might be able to handle it but I would not recommend it. M120 will work good and you still might have a good trigger response. With a M120 the internals will last a little longer.
There both pretty good guns. If you NOT planing on upgrading in the future I would go for the one you like the look of best. If your going to want to upgrade go with the 1911 because there are tons of upgrade parts.
Everything you are planing on doing sounds good. I would recomend get a madbull barrel. It's $32 from Stryke airsoft and free shipping.
http://www.strykeairsoft.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_64_135_137&products_id=174&zenid=9qkhp8l6n890osdtm1u3vvd7b1
It is the process of fitting shims on the gears to make them line up correctly and spin freely. I would say that it is one of the most important things in the gun to have perfectly done.
Fuses just protect from over-current. So unless you have have a problem where your battery is putting off to many amps it does nothing but set there.
I don't have fuses in any of my guns and they are all fine.
I would say that something in the trigger wasn't put back in right. It would be something in the little piece that moves back and forth. When in semi the off lever Moves that piece out of the contact points. If it is jammed in so way when it is moved on semi it might not let the trigger move back. It doesn't do it on full because the cut off lever isn't used.
If you know how to solder I would get some good wire and just redo it if your good. Airsoft Low-Resistance is a joke. They have very thin cases and open easily which can lead to shorts. If your going to get a mosfet get one that has a controllable rate of fire. As the other comment said for a support gun you want a pretty low rate of fire.
G&G, Madbull KSC, ICS, and many more. One is not better then the other and everybody will have a different one they think is best. Most of people don't have anything to back up what they have.
It was just one of the customs guns Evike had for a while. They don't produce it anymore.
The gun itself was just an army armament l86 with an G&P SR25 Upgrade Piston and a M120 spring.
Steps for picking a gun.
1. Figure out what type of gun you want. (M4/M16, MP5, AK)
2. Get your price range.
3. Ask again here with that info
4. You should get a few recommendation
5. decide based on the info and your research of it
Steps for picking a gun.
1. Figure out what type of gun you want. (M4/M16, MP5, AK)
2. Get your price range.
3. Ask again here with that info
4. You should get a few recommendation
5. decide based on the info
Echo is a good brand but there are better. I personally would go with a Airsoft GI G4. They don't have a metal body I you will find that the G&G nylon body are much better then the cheap pot metal one that come on E1's.
As for marcownz747 answer Echo 1 doesn't use other people's stuff. I most cases other companies buy stuff from echo 1.
It's not like paintball where gun is better then the other. For all the people who have what you might refer to as a "pro" all make their own using parts that they think are the best as one unit.
It is if it is more comfortable for you to have your hand out father away. I'm 6'5" and have long arms so I put a grip pretty far out there. Some one who is 5'0" might be comfortable gripping the mag well.
RIS=Rail Interface System. Basically it allows you put put after market accessories on the gun. Most people but vertically grips of some sort on the bottom rail. Flashlights are another major piece that I see a lot of in CQB.
If you get one I would recommend a high quality one mostly because of the weight. they are mostly made of high quality metal and are a lot lighter.
Glock doesn't let anybody reproduce replicas anymore in the US. Your not going to find a new one and most used ones are green gas/propane. You might be able to find one in Asia but good luck getting it through customs.
The way I shop with them is that if there only ones who have it or for a very different price I get it from them. If I can fin something within $20 I will always buy it from someone else.
Matrix isn't a gun for first, it's some rename of a low quality piece. Half of what I've seen there are AIMs which is out of business. I would not recommend getting one.
I personally like Elites. From what I have seen I like there performance better. but I have no research of one being better in one aspect or another. I have bought all of my new at EliteAirsoftBatteries.com
I bought an Airsoft Surgeon loading nozzle and put in in my gun a the part that feeds the bb broke off. I called the store I bought I from and they the contact Airsoft Surgeon and that they will replace it.
The gun is a piece.
If your just getting in to airsoft I recommend something like the Aftermath MP5. Styke Airsoft is having a sale on them right now. $75 shipped and throw in some BBs and you will be all good for a while.
http://www.strykeairsoft.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_150&products_id=927&zenid=jr02gtrmgt9lso6o7dk43clta6
Close Quarters Combat. aka in your face play style. Most CQB places have tight spaces with a lot of walls and windows. Some just take old buildings and use them. If you play you will most likely be full autoed in the face. So wear a full face mask.
This is what it can be like.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MllyRMqPk3Q&playnext=1&videos=kG-6mikh488
Airsoft GI. If it is over $100 shipping is only $2.60 and if you the coupon "hot" you get a 10% discount.
With evike you either get 10% or free shipping not both.
My biggest suggestion would be to go down to a 10c battery.
Also what gun is it/what spring.
If your running hi cap I would recommend going to mid-caps
http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/products/102-elite-1500-mah-23a-96v-nunchuck-packsmall-type.aspx
That is the best battery that you will find that fits in the G&G crane stock.
KWA Yes
MATRIX is not a brand it is just a label. A warning stay away from Evike because a lot of there things are miss labeled and the false advertise.
A G&G GR16 from Airsoft GI is a great gun and with free ship and the coupon "hot" it will cost you $155.60. I would get a battery from EliteAirsoftBatties.com. Most of the mini batteries will fit the gun and the are a great quality at a low price. You can also pick up a good smart charger there.
http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_237&products_id=4726
That motor should handle the spring fine. I would recommend going to a lipo and a wire set without a fuse. Fuse are more of a pain then of any use. Unless there is a short they don't protect from much. They are for over current which is very rare to be the problem with a battery.
To check for compression take the cylinder out. Put the head on with the air nozzle. Put the piston with the head up on a table. Put the cylinder so the piston head is just pass the port. Put your finger on the nozzle and press down fast.
If it is hard to push the compression is fine.
If it just goes al the way down you my friend have a problem
Yes can put another gearbox in there but you will have a problem with the charging handle if it was the blowback version. Yes if if the gearbox you have for it is a non blow back kind.
** I don't know anything for sure. I have just heard rumors **
I have heard that it will be coming out in Sept./Oct.
I would guess that they will be releasing it before X-mas unless they have any big set backs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEluKaqwVb0&playnext=1&videos=qGL2Jw2c_ok
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqcgGzYEEaU&playnext=1&videos=E_F2DxXK0ig
and there is also some on a M92F
Technically yes it does. To your eyes no. The air will effect any projectile some but a BB to the naked eye will have no effect. You can look at the temp and humidity effect on long range rifles if you want more info.
It's all up to you but I can recommend what I have. I am right handed to start. I run nothing on the front right so my arm has plenty of space. I run double mag pouches in the front and single on to left side. On the singles I have pistol mag pouches. For the top front I have a radio and admin pouch. The back on mine has a camelbak and the back sides have utility pouches and run a belt for a drop holster and a dump pouch. This is how I have mine set up right now. In a month or two it might be completely different. There is no "best" in general but after some time you will find one that fits you.
Depends on your how your gun is set up. Some can only fit 2000mah batteries in the hand guard and others can fit 5000mah battery in a full stock or external pack. Also get the size of battery to fit your play style. If you suppress fire a lot you might want a bigger battery.
That would really be up to you. If you want a gas gun it a great choice. Th D-Boys Scar on the other hand is not a good choice and I would recommend the Echo 1 MK16 for a lower end Scar.
It's a pretty good gun but it's kinda pointless to have a CQB gun with high FPS. Also on another note I would never buy a gun based on FPS. That is mostly because FPS doesn't really do much as you will see if you watch this video below. I am guessing that you want range if your looking for a high FPS but the only thing that equals range is barrel length. Also in my experience a gun shooting 350 will last many more rounds than a 400.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AA8uxowemAY&playnext=1&videos=QmCKWbJkovk
First don't buy that gun from anywhere where they say its is a 2010 version because there is not such thing. Second it is a pretty good gun and I say that because you can get better ones in that price range.
Either a G&G Combat Machine or a TSD M4
http://www.airsoftcarolina.com/index.php?p=product&id=1066&parent=0
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3341
A good GBB or a Mp5 PDW
If you go for a pistol I would recommend getting a holster that you can put on your arm so if you are lying down it's easy to get to.
There are a couple options that you can go. First would be just a standard rail from like Echo 1. Second would be a Free Float Rail. 1 is going to be cheaper but it will not be as sturdy as a free float. 2 is more money but will be a lot better. Its up to you what look of a rail you want.
Madbull Free Floats
http://www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?select=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.airsoftgi.com%2Findex.php%3Fselect%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.airsoftgi.com%252Findex.php%253FcPath%253D30_37%2526sort%253D2a%2526PLsort%253D3d%26cPath%3D30_37%26sort%3D2a%26filter_id%3D24%26PLsort%3D3d&cPath=30_37&sort=2a&filter_id=25
Cheaper Free Float
http://www.airsoftgi.com/index.php?select=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.airsoftgi.com%2Findex.php%3Fselect%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.airsoftgi.com%252Findex.php%253Fselect%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.airsoftgi.com%25252Findex.php%25253FcPath%25253D30_37%252526sort%25253D2a%252526PLsort%25253D3d%2526cPath%253D30_37%2526sort%253D2a%2526filter_id%253D24%2526PLsort%253D3d%26cPath%3D30_37%26sort%3D2a%26filter_id%3D25%26PLsort%3D3d&cPath=30_37&sort=2a&filter_id=
I would go with the Vest just because it might be cheaper because you don't have to buy mag pouches. Also you said you like having the back better so I would go with that. If your not running M4/M16 style mags and have something bigger like AK or G36 the vest will hold less but still you don't have to buy mag pouches.