About: British Engineer - recent airsofter but currently working on a project gun M4 pistol secondary and a gear whore for flash-lights, lasers, rails......
Already gone to the Dark side with Lipo batteries.
The pictures indicate a high quality level the rails are sharply defined and show good product knowledge with the delta ring pins shown. Looks good to me.
This is a health and safety crazy society, there is a microscopic possibility that a bb could shatter and some small fragments could pass through. The chances of this are low and should not prevent the use of mesh goggles. The likelyhood of stumbling and having a trip accident due to fogged goggles is far higher than the eye damage possibility.
Assuming you mean Cyprus, The Mediterranean, Europe, Earth.......
There seem to be a couple of forums but not well used and no shops - there seems to be a problem associated with the importation of imitation firearms.
Google airsoft cyprus and you will get a couple of forums.
King Arms are an OEM - they make/assemble their own guns, Cybergun commission various OEM's to make guns for them to a specification.
I can only reccomend what I have used myself - I have a King Arms metal bodied M4 with full Colt trades - it is second only to my KWA for quality amd accuracy. 8mm bearings in the gearbox and engraved trades - NOT printed.
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/King_Arms_Full_Metal_COLT_M4A1_Airsoft_Carbine_AEG_p/cb-18970-ka-ag-20.htm
There are 2 combatairsofts - one in New Zealand , one in California - this one is listed under Gamepod combat airsoft. It has 2 retail stores and a web prescence.
Right lets get back to basics. You can get 25rps from almost any AEG but you need to do the work on it to make it work well.
For a start you need to do a complete shim job on the gearbox, short stroke the piston and sector gear by 2 teeth, do a 1 1/2 tooth removal on the first piston teeth, fit an upgraded spring to compensate for the short stroke- if you want to keep the same FPS, ensure the sector timing by shimming the piston head, fit a sector clip. fit a braking mosfet, use a 11.1v Lipo, use midcaps to feed properly, fit a decent hopup unit and bucking...thats about it.
For airsoft ranges a fixed 4X scope is good, and any 4x32 will be fine. You should not worry about the absolute detail, a mil dot reticule is good for range estimation and hold over otherwise both are similar.
DO NOT put a 10.8v battery in this gun without doing a gearbox shim/timing/grease/sector clip job on it.
9.6V should be ok but over this you should do some work.
Delay chips should work fine if the gearbox is timed properly - changing the delay chip form is unlikely to compensate for the real problem.
You can time the sector gear by shimming the piston head - check on youtube there are videos on this, Oddys airsoft has a good series.
I have the xcortech and it works well, another option is the Competition Electronics Prochrono from Canada! I had one in the past but shot it with an arrow!
Assuming you mean a spring for an AEG rifle then most springs are fine, preferably get one with unequal coils on one end. The Element is a good spring
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Element_Airsoft_Upgrade_M115_Grade_Spring_for_AEG_p/acc-in0109(m115).htm
A Guarder Infinite Torque motor will pull almost any spring, if you want to increase the speed get a standard ratio gearset in steel, this will cycle faster than the torque gears, and the motor can handle it.
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/JBU_Standard_Ratio_Reinforced_Metal_Gear_Set_p/acc-sdja-83.htm
As a secondary you need to keep it compact as possible, what about a pistol or super stubby M4. All the suppliers make at least one in their product range. Here are a few examples.
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/JG_Full_Metal_Gearbox_M4_CQB_Pistol_AEG_p/jg-f6631.htm
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/NEW_AGM_Full_Metal_M4_CQC_RAS_AEG_Rifle_p/agm-036.htm
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Airsoft_JG_Full_Metal_Gearbox_M4_Stubby_CQB_AEG_p/jg-fb6625.htm
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=408_411&products_id=2328
There are a couple of ways
Buy a lower power gun
Trim a few coils off the spring in the gun - 1 coil = 10-15 fps
Fit a new spring to the gearbox
Fit an adjustable piston head - this can be adjusted down to reduce fps
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=9101
A stick type lipo would do - take off your stock and use a tape to confirm the length available in the tube.
http://www.evike.com/index.php?cPath=31_171
If you have a poor motor connection it will have high resistance and impair performance - either replace the connectors with better quality ones that work or directly solder the wires to the motor terminals.
You dont use high speed gears and a high speed motor at the same time, IF you mean to start from a GG diablo then you need to sort the gearbox out first - shimming, short stroking and decent gears and a sector clip - What you really need to do is give it to a Tek that knows what to do.
There is no basic difference- I would get a decent metal hopup (King Arms?), a madbull bucking and nub and an ultra tight 6.01 mm barrel for the AEG. Then you have a DMR (designated marskman rifle) as accurate as a sniper rifle but capable of protective auto fire if you get compromised.
As you play CQB losing fps is not important - to get higher ROF you can follow the good advice from Buster - but in addition you can short stroke the gearbox but you will lose a little fps. see Oddys airsoft videos on this.
You do not say which mags - if 2xhicaps then a poor 8.4v battery might only last this.
You need to be more specific - what battery, charger makes and specs - how long you charged for etc.
Improving gun accuracy and range is a whole set of things to do - pick how far to go
Madbull hop and shark bucking
New metal hop unit - madbull, king arms or systema
new piston head and nozzle to improve air efficiency
new tightbore barrel
As you have just fitted a new motor I suspect that your installation had some flaws, either you have pinched some wires and shorted the battery, or not adjusted the motor height correctly - overloading the motor.
If Echo1 dont have any then it is unlikely you will get one - I suggest you get a standard piston and disable the blowback function. The shooting capability will not be affected.
Ah grasshopper we now enter the world of Lithium battery chemistry.
The LiFe battery has a number of advantages - it more closely matches the optimum standard airsoft voltage 9.9V Life to 9.6V Nimh,so extra work on gearboxes is reduced.
The cells are more stable and do not self destruct on thermal runaway.
LiFe cells have a flatter voltage curve so keep up the volts further into the game.
If you want a higer voltage use a 13.2V Life -but be prepared for serious upgrade work.
There is an obvious problem with the hop unit, bucking or nub.
The only answer is to take it apart and sort it.
Check out youtube using relevant search words to get the right instruction video - there are plenty there.
If you are not confident then take it to your nearest airsoft workshop - it will be a minor job for them.
You do not say which country you are in - component shop is a UK site so I assume it is UK.
There are multiple options from 1200 to 3300 mah cranestocks available - the G&G usually fits a 1600mah battery fine.
More details required for a better answer
The C rating is a measure of the discharge capability of the battery pack relating to the battery capacity of the battery.The capacity is usually given in milli-Ampere-hours, divide by 1000 to get the ampere-hour rating.
So a 1500mah battery at 10C can deliver 15 Amps of current. (1500/1000 x 10)
Since the battery does not 'push' electricity into the motor then it is OK to use a highC battery as long as the gearbox and motor are properly rated for the Lipo Voltage
I have a King Arms metal M4 running on 11.1v lipo - but I did a shim job and Angle of Engagement check before doing so. I would do this with ANY gearbox before going for a higher capacity battery.
A 0.25g bb will shoot about 460fps based on energy calcs, the most important aspect for sniper rifles is shot stability and for this fps gun it will need a 0.35 - 0.43 grammes bb.
Obviously a serious gearbox issue - not producing enough air pressure to push bbs out - if it is in warranty get it sorted by KWA otherwise get a local shop to sort it. You cannot just ask how to fix a grinding noise on a website and get a decent response.
It depends on the classic army - if it is a sportline then NO choose the Dboys - CA sportlines have compromised internals with poor gears and bushes.
CA mainstream guns cost double a dboys so I do not understand the choice comparison?
Externals are ok on the Javelin but the gearbox has some real issues - mechanical blowback, plastic bushings, poor spring guide, bad shimming etc Get the King Arms - proper bearings, and decent internals.
See review below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBVkg0TX5jM
For airsoft skirmishing all the B****hit from XLR means squat - both guns are capable of skirmish performance and YOU should decide what you like. Dont be concerned about having an opinion or preference.
The pros for the M4 are more external accessories - but the SCAR is cool to start with.
Your choice - both will do the job.
For a long lasting setup go for a simple non-blowback AEG - the KWA has the best stock setup for a reasonable price. Most of the KWA internals are standard - especially those likely to be replaced.
It depends on the make of gearbox - some can just be pulled out but TM clones often have a screw in the head which is hidden - so check the outside of the piston head and remove any gunk sealing over the screw in the centre - remove the screw and the spring should be free.
Its mostly as XLR says but there are some better alternatives - get a King Arms M4 only with clear replaceable parts - main body is black metal so it is easier to upgrade to a RIF after getting your UKARA registration.
http://www.solware.co.uk/bb-guns/King-Arms-Metal-Action-Colt-M4A1-Full-Automatic.shtml
If you use any gun a piston strip is always a small chance.
If you have a decent AEG gun with blowback it will not strip any more than a non-blowback as it is designed for it.
IF you put a high power spring or high speed motor in one then you increase the chances of piston damage - this is more likely in an AEG mechanical blowback.
Keep it stock and you will be fine.
If when you take off the hop unit and with the hop wound off holding it upside down you cannot fit the nub into the nub are completely then there is a problem with the adjusting screw or lever.
1 - YES provided battery power is sufficient
2 - YES provided battery power available and gearbox workin properly
3 - Same question as 1+2
4 - NO this is a basic Mosfet no additional features
5 - Same question as 1
That depends on the fps your gun is shooting - if it is less than 350 fps with 0.2g bbs then a 7.4v is best - 350 or over then 11.1v is fine. This is for a stock KWA where no work has been done.
If you correct the gearbox angle of engagement and shave off the two first teeth on the piston and check the motor height and shimming then you can run an 11.1v on any KWA.
This is due to the ROF you will get with the higher volt battery. You could fit a 9.6v LiFe for the best of both chemistries.
The field has an energy limit but expressed as a speed limit with a certain weight BB.
First check what weight bbs the speed check is done with - 90% of fields use 0.2 - a few use 0.25.
If you need to lose 30 fps then you can clip a few rings off the gearbox spring - probably about 2-4 depending on spring length. Get someone who can tek gearboxes to help.
Go onto Youtube and type in G&G flashider ...and there are several removal videos. Including using a dremel and cutters for removal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqJnD6ULAtM
The King Arms offers a very standard solution that is easy to maintain and upgrade. The metal body versions have excellent trade marked externals and the 8 and 9 mm bearing gearboxes are very good.
I have one so I guess I am a little biased. Here is a base one - pay a few $ more for magpul tricked version .
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/King_Arms_Full_Metal_COLT_M4A1_Airsoft_Carbine_AEG_p/cb-18970-ka-ag-20.htm
For high ROF solutions you want the piston to be as light as possible, metal teeth are not required. You need to remove the first two teeth after the rear engagement tooth to get better clearance and to time the gearbox by shimming the piston with some plastic spacers. Short stroking the sector gear can also help, and a sector clip is essential.
See the Disguised Airsoft, Oddys and Mechbox6mm vids on Youtube
Your question is very confused - if you are happy with 300 fps then why are you talking of installing an M150+ spring thet would deliver between 500 and 600 fps?
If the current problem is lack of power then the air efficiency is probably to blame or a crap hopup unit or setup.
KWA are a reputable supplier, and their gbb pistols are top quality. This does not stop them having the occasional lemon - it happens even with the best brands. It really annoys me when someone who has had a bad gun extrapolates this to a complete brand problem. If KWA produce a bad gun tell them and it will be sorted - unless you have caused the problem. Inner barrels do NOT 'fail' and the only reason a spring guide would break is by abuse.
In the US as elsewhere in civilised countries consumers are protected by consumer law. Suppliers are not allowed to tell lies about things. They might be selective about what they say but what they do say must be correct. If they say it is a KWA/KSC then it is.
I have a little problem understanding your question - sorry.
The suppressor is usually screwed onto the outer barrel and butts up against it at the thread end.?
The only thing inside the suppressor is the inner barrel? So if this is spaced then I suggest an O-ring to keep alignment.
If you mean there is a gap at the screw end of the barrel then a metal washer is good to fill it - spray it black before fitting.
It would be helpful to know where you are - in the US which state - or otherwise which country, as the rules in each country and state vary tremendousley. In each area there will be a local/national organisation for airsofting and these are the best folks to contact to get the lowdown on regulations and local insurance rules.
Edit your question with that information and people will be able to offer specific help.
If you are not UKARA registered then it is illegal to purchase a RIF from wherever and Customs WILL confiscate the item.
The US guns are also over powered for the UK sites coming in at about 400 fps not the 328 - 350 generally allowed in UK.
The best option is to get a King Arms M4 which is delivered with black metal body and clear abs handguard, stock and grip. This can be TEMPORARILY changed to be black AT THE FIELD using standard stocks and hand guards, and restored to clear for transport and home storage.
You will also need the shop to derate the spring from 360fps to 328 fps.
The UK law makes it illegal to permanently change the AEG to a RIF but allows temporary covering whilst on a registered field.
FPS is a complex combination of barrel volume, cylinder volume and spring strength. If you increase the barrel and cylinder volume you need to increase the spring rating to suit. The battery volts has some effect if the motor is over stressed. I would uprate the spring and if required the motor.
Tokyo Marui is a good gun for stock use but will have serious issues when you start upgrading. the gearbox is designed for lower fps with nylon bushings and alloy gears (not steel) I would not start from here.
If you already have then I would replace the entire gearbox with a KWA one from Airsoftworld - bargain at £70 at the moment. You will spend more on piecemeal upgrades and not get a better gearbox.
To get the crisp trigger you can add (later) a plug in single shot lock King Kong Mosfet and a Lipo battery.And Deans connectors.
1. King Arms M4
2. Dont buy a cheap chinese one a mid price one is a better bet
3. NO
4.YES as long as they are lubed via the adapter - green gas is propane + lube - CO2 requires different mags and sometimes modified internals
5 good propane adapter and lube, mags, mags, tools to remove mag valves.
As long as the outer barrel is aligned with the inner its no problem. This can be done by fitting some (2-4) O-rings on the inner barrel towards the outer portion to space it and align with the outer. Echo-1 fit some models with short inners and an outer barrel extension - so no problem.
If you are running a standard KWA ie in USA the either battery is fine - they are prepared for it - if in the UK then a lower powered spring is fitted and only a 7.4v is reccomended. I use Lipos in all my guns - just get a decent balance charger - try Hobbypartz or Hobbyking for a good one
Out of the box mine shoots 360 fps - you will need an upgraded spring - about M120 - do a shim job on the gearbox. The motor is ok on the standard spring but you may need a new motor for the uprate - try it and see. I would reccomend a Guarder ultimate torque if you need to upgrade. If you fit a lipo then fit a sector chip on the gear.
Turning up the hop will only make a few fps difference and could cause blockage problems in the extreme position - and will not be correct for your bbs so will not be accurate.
Thre are only two ways of reducing fps with a .2g test bb - replace/crop the spring or fit an SAT adjustable piston setup - the spring is cheaper but the piston can be adjusted for different fields.
Ball bearings are bearings, and bushings are solid bearings. The reason to use ball bearings is to take care of higher speed shafts - and solid bushings for extreme loadings such as extreme fps.
The setup you quote will be fine with either, but I would fit ball bearings. Why replace the ones in the gearbox?
As CNCman says higher volts and the generated ROF will wear out a gearbox faster, if you need a decent battery and are willing to go the Lipo route then a 7.4v one will give a very reliable power source. Try Hobbypartz.com for a right price battery.
An M100 should shoot in the 330 fps region but this varies from gun to gun depending how efficient the air system and gearbox is. If you get the M100 and it is a bit hot you can clip a few rings off the spring to weaken it.
The next ideal size is 455mm so 92mm longer =3.6 inches longer so a short mock suppressor would suit fine
http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_142&products_id=35619
This gun is rated at about 425 fps - at this spring force an 11.1v lipo would not drive the gun too fast - the main problem with lipo ready guns is when the ROF is so high that the gearbox issues occur. IF the gearbox has been well shimmed and set up then it should be fine - but the usual advice is reshim the box, and burst fire the gun do not mag dump. Fit a mosfet if you are doing a lot of single shots as ther will be some contact wear in time.
I have the KA Colt trades metal M4 and it is just behind the KWA in internal quality and has excellent externals. An 8mm bearing gearbox and about 360 fps out of the box. ( I have a KWA internals self built as well)
This gun would be my personal reccomend for a reasonably priced general skirmish gun for outdoor, mout and cqb. Only issue is if your cqb field accepts 360fps. A minor spring clip would reduce to 350 fps. Trick it out with 'Magpul' stock and front guard from Dealextreme for $40 and you have a NICE gun.
Hop up is a method of putting backspin on the BB - this changes how the BB flies - it curves it upwards opposing the drop in flight from a normal trajectory. Putting on the right level of hop (backspin) maximises the level BB flight.
When you mix AEG with sniping you end up to with a DMR or Designated Marksman Rifle - in airsoft terms a long AEG.
Plenty of battle rilength M4s are available with RIS rails or SVDs Dragonuv.
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Airsoft_DBoys_V3_Full_Metal_M16_SPR_MOD_1_Rifle_p/bi-5381.htm
Most pistons - even the best quality are polycarb, lighter and more responsive. The only reason to use aluminium pistons is when running a very high fps spring. It will be more durable but is heavier and less responsive. Yes you will get a crisper response, small fps increase and small rof inprovement.
Polycarb gearboxes in proper aegs are not commen but can be fine from a reputable manufacturer, but they cannot be upgraded with strong springs and they may have long term issues with the plastic interaction with non-silicon gear grease. Not reccomended from low price suppliers.
If you are using solid bushings then there is no difference between a 7mm or 9mm as the bearing surface is the pivot shaft of the gear which does not change size.
For bearing bushes there is a difference with heavier 140+ springs.
So keep the gearbox and add decent internals.
Better for what???
You need to be more specific, spring rating, rps, battery etc.
I have found SHS motors to be good for the money, neither are top flight, I prefer Guarders for a little more.
Most polycarb gearboxes are garbage, these are a step up and can be ok, but if you want to upgrade and improve then stick with a decent metal cased mechbox. On paper polycarb is strong but in real experience it is more likely to crack and fatigue if higher load springs are fitted and gear grease can be detrimental to polycarb properties.
Yes and Yes - It is the spring strength that can sensibly be used - this is the same as the motor torque. Higher spring rake needs a higher torque motor.
sounds like an o-ring issue - clean and lube the magazine valves with silicon oil - low viscosity spray is best. Look on Youtube for a video demonstration.
Just replace the Mosfet circuit - repair is quite technical.
http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_230&products_id=14532
ATACs is ideal for desert, but Multicam is better if you have a mix of desert and green scrub.
The best current cammo for pure desert is British Desert cammo, with US Desert Brush and Desert Marpat a close second
The PRS stock you indicate is only available for real steel and costs $240 - I would fit the PTS stock available for $120 - you will need a buffer tube lipo.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_141&products_id=9811
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_141&products_id=4149
Any M16/M4 magazine should fit fine in any M based gun - I have mags from MAG, Magpul, Star (Magpul), Classic Army, King Arms and they all fit and perform fine in any M4 capable gun. I have King Arms, Classic Army, based guns.
Kermit and Airsoft both give good advice - but just go out and enjoy yourself , if you THINK you might have been hit CALL IT - its not fatal just a respawn, you will gain respect and learn quickly.
Propellant gasses are affected badly by extreme low temperatures. The NS2 KWA system is better at coping with this due to its better efficiency. My KWA Glock performs OK until about 0 deg C ( -32F) but with reduced fps and less auto capability.
It depends on YOUR player needs/profile - for a serious milsim and event player the KWA performs out of the box with good external and great internals, the VFC has great externals and good internals , more suited to a collector/reenactor but upgradeable. The KWA is also upgradeable with a little care.
Drop in fps is not motor related this is all spring or airpath. Unless the spring is broken it is likely to be airpath and usually some hop or nozzle issue - check barrel cleaning, is hop robber and nub ok, is sealing on cylinder and piston ok, does nozzle seal and fit in hop unit, is hop unit sealed to inner barrel, is nozzle being operated properly by tappet plate? are piston gears ok?
Current Systema motors are good and come in torque and speed versions (issues with previous motors) but well expensive. I favour Guarder, SHS and G&P motors. Favourite is Guarder ultratorque - they spin anything.
There is a problem with either the battery or charger if you cannot charge it correctly. DO NOT mess with Lipo charging.
Find another 11.1v Lipo battery - friend etc - and check the charger operation, and a lipo voltmeter to check the battery cells.
IT DEPENDS
If using metal bushings rather than bearings it makes little difference as the smallest bearing surface is the gear shaft to bushing which is the same for all OD from 6-9mm.
If using Bearings for higher speed then 6mm is no good - no room for decent ball bearings, 8 or 9 mm are preferable - the larger the better as it gives better bearing loads and 9mm for high force springs.
Like any bio bbs they will have some reaction but if you keep the bottle closed tight and away from direct sunlight then you should get several weeks to 6 months.
I have a KA M4 metal bodied Colt trades and top quality and a good performer out of the box. The KA is simple with no internal frills - reliable.
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/King_Arms_Full_Metal_COLT_M4A1_Airsoft_Carbine_AEG_p/cb-18970-ka-ag-20.htm
The wear rate is dependant on RPS so the 11.1V 15c or 20c battery is fine for a standard USA KWA at 370-420+ fps, if a lower power spring is fitted then use only a 7.4v lipo as the RPS will be excessive. UK KWA guns are rated at 320-340 fps and only reccomend a 7.4V lipo.
You already have a semi or full tightbore depending on the age of the gun, some compatibility issues with the nozzle and hop unit - there is a location lug on the KWA, and the gears are special non shimmed .
For an AEG that shoots less than 300ish fps use 0.2g, for a 325-350 an 0,23 is matched, for 350 to 375 a 0.25g is good above that experiment with 0.27 to 0.3g This will give the best barrel velocity and stability, for a pistol use a grade heavier. More stability and less range required.
Either would be fine - YOU have to decide if a set of iron sights is more preferable than 7 levels of brightness on each colour dot (rather than 2 per colour)
I would go with the Guarder one due to the brightness adjustment - all other features are pretty similar
If you want a durable replacement for standard gears then yes these are fine up to about an M140-150 max spring., to get a better answer you need to be more specific, what fps and RPS what battery do you run etc
Both are good guns for the money, the latest versions of chinese gearboxes are pretty good from either maker, but usually could do with a reshim to improve life. The only down side for the M14 is that the gearboxes are more difficult to work on than a standard V2 as fitted to the T3. Decide what your preference is they will both do a DMR/Sniper role. I prefer the looks of the M14 and it fits US loadouts, the T3 is for for European style.
Not on most guns as the valve is fixed size, requiring a valve change out to mod fps.
Some new Rifles have an adjustable valve, or can be fitted with an aftermarket kit from RA-TECH.
YES
Many makers glue on the flashhider, screw and loctite or epoxy the screws in. It is a real pain as you are not sure what glues they have used.
Search for flash hider in this website for many answers on removal.
The motor is pulling a high current maybe because it is driving against a heavy force. This is due to poor meshing, adjustment or lack of lube.
Or motor bushes could be worn giving high current draw.
You really need a shop tech to check it out or an experienced airsofter who understands Augs.
Have you considered an AEG pistol - shorter than a MP5 with a high cap mag gives real backup -
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=408_411&products_id=2328
Two aspects are important - weight of bb to match fps of gun and a good brand for quality.
Measure the fps of the guns using 0.2g bbs and for the rifle use the FPS-100 to get the bb weight - 350 -100 = 250 so use .25 bbs - for the pistol use FPS = bb weight so for a 300 fps use 0.3bb's
This is to optimise accuracy and range for the guns.
Good brands Include - Bioval, Echo1, Madbull, KSC Perfects, G&G, ......
Any battery has a C rating for its long and short term capability of Current (Amps) delivery.
Lithium batteries (and some others) have a really high short and long term capability. This is called the C rating , !C is the curremt that will drain the battery in 1 hour. Most batteries are 'rated' at the C/5 rating or 5 hour drain rating.
1200 mAh battery will give 240 mA for 5 hours. Higher currents will reduce the overall delivery (mAh) and increase the current (mA).
Lithium batteries can give long term delivery of 5C to 30+C - normally 15-25C this means a 1200 mAh can give constant current of 18Amps to 30 Amps and double that for short periods.
The C rating is usually on the battery but if not assume 5-15C
It does not matter a damn as long as it drives the motor OK!
12g CO2 will give from 50-100 rounds shooting depending on mag volume and temperature. A 40 round mag is pretty big for a gas gun so your usage is about right. NO freezers will have no effect. Lube the seals with silicon oil to optimise sealing.
If you didnt over shoot with the wrong polarity it should be fine as the anti reversal latch would prevent gearbox movement in reverse - hence the name- only possible damage is motor stress or pinion gear due to locked gearbox. If it is shooting OK go for it and dont be OCD! - if it fails in the future just deal with it.
Bushmaster is not an airsoft brand but a real steel manufacturer/trade - You need to specify the maker - is it KWA or Crosman - the answer will depend on this.
In the $200 range you can get a G&G, Echo 1, KIng Arms, DBoys, JG, Cyma all good starter guns.
For woodland games I use original Mechanix - with the white Logos blacked out - Sharpie style, for CQB and MOUT the Mpact or Mpact2 have good nuckle and back of hand protection.
for that fps use .25 or .27 bb's - see which give the most stable flight at your intended ranges. 0.25's will be cheaper.
Any decent make will do - Golden Ball, KSC Perfects, Madbull, Bioval, Echo1, GG.....Just not ones that look like frog spawn (except Biovals)
The standard CA is a good AEG with decent gears and bushings - but the sportline is poor with lower quality gears and plastic bushings. The later sportline premium is better with steel bushings. The standard CA is about $350+ so a KWA would be a better choice.
It is legal if you stick to your own land or a proper airsoft site, not if transported outside of a closed bag or case.
Check to see if there are any screws or roll pins holding the flash hider and remove, most are Counter Clock Wise so righty loosey EXCEPT G&P which are CW threads.
Many are glued on - you might loosen it with hot water, a hair dryer or heat gun. BE CAREFUL. Use channel lock pliers with a cloth or leather cushion around the flash hider. - or you could just spray it the right colour?
I have been using Lipos exclusively for some time - I even make my own custom packs.
Use a balance charger -
Hobbypartz have some good deals -
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dyc-1003-accharger-blue.html
And a Lipo alarm / voltmeter
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/1s-6s-lipo-battery-voltage-checker-tester-with-dual-speaker-low-voltage-buzzer-alarm-72381
Take the gun to a decent shop technician, for a proper repair job. It sounds like you have reassembled the gearbox incorrectly and without timing it properly or adjusting the motor height?
This indicates a problem with motor height or complete gearbox lock = try dropping the motor height by turning the grip screw anti clockwise. If not then you need a gearbox job.
I have not come across this personally but as the gearbox is a zero shim one I suspect that the usual extra space in the gearbox shell for the wider bore up kit - bigger bore and bigger outside diameter, is simply not there - no extra space above a standard cylinder and piston.
I have the metal MAG brand midcaps 190 rnd - they are really good - feed well and require minimal lubrication. Just at the start and every 2-3 months, with a simple spray of silicon.
NEVER heard of a magazine splitting - just dont overfill - I usually put in about 150 rnds - great for a midcap.
I have a small speedloader clear plastic - I counted in some BBs and marked the side wuth a sharpie so its easy to load correctly!
The motor looks good and has good reviews, but ask yourself what are you trying to achieve?
The motor upgrade would be required for a stronger spring M120+ but then the gun fps may prevent its use at some fields and cqb sites, the G&G has a 6.04 barrel (if bought in the last couple of years) so I would fit a better hopup unit and bucking/nub from Madbull and do a gear shim and grease job, and check if any air path components need improving - piston, nozzle etc.
No, not with a 20C battery.
mAh = playing time
v = ROF
V x C = ROF limit ......ie current capability of battery. if you hav a low C value (5 -10) then it may not deliver the top end of ROF available . But your setup will be fine.
It is not essential for a 7.4V battery as the trigger contacts are able to handle the max 8.4V generated.
Reasons to fit are
Improved trigger response - elecronic motor switching
Prolongs life of trigger contacts - especially at higher volts or higher fps (increases motor current)
This has a reasonably reinforced gearbox with 7mm bearings and steel gears so can take a bit higher spring - mine is shooting 365 fps with stock spring I think its a m110 so it would take a m130.
Why would you want to increase it? - This is just about perfect for a carbine gun - higher fps will mean using heavier bb's to keep stable bb flight and accuracy.
The standard M4 carbine inner barrel is 363mm which is only 6mm longer than yours - 1/4 inch so no big problem.
If it sticks out proud then get a longer flash hider or short 'moderator' such as the firepig?
It depends what you want it for and if you really need all the extra rails!
If you are new to the game then a more basic M4 rifle might be better , you can always add rails, later.
I would go for a more solid , metal bodied gun - but it will be heavier. My current low cost favourite is the metal bodied King Arms M4,
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/King_Arms_Full_Metal_COLT_M4A1_Airsoft_Carbine_AEG_p/cb-18970-ka-ag-20.htm
Add some low cost goodies from Hong Kong for a mean machine - prices are shipped!
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ctr-butt-stock-black-103054
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/pts-moe-hand-guard-for-airsoft-cs-gun-toy-73828
A smart charger will work for aby gun battery pack of the right chemistry. Normal batteries are Nickel Metal Hydride - NiMh and you need a NiMh charger, Lithium - LiPo batteries need a special charger.
As a new player stick with NiMh - easier to manage.and chargers are available from any airsoft store.
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Tenergy_Universal_Premium_Battery_SMART_CHARGER_p/acc-smart-charger.htm
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_74&products_id=8478
TM did the original design and so incurred high one off costs, plus their labour costs are higher than either Taiwan or China, and they have a small international market so they have to spread the costs over fewer guns. = 2-3 x similar taiwan/chinese guns.
The Umarex has an easier takedown but the KWA has a far superior gearbox. The Umarex blowback will be more realistic but will wear out the internals at a faster rate. Skirmish with the KWA or have fun with the Umarex/ARES.
I have a custom build under way - I chose a KWA gearbox as it has 9mm bearings for high fps tolerance and high ROF capability. I picked up a Guarder Infinite torque motor.
http://store.kwausa.com/partm4a1gearbox.aspx
http://www.airsoftextreme.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=443_444_452&products_id=3173
The KWA is designed to run the 11.1v lipo as long as you keep the original spring. If a lower power spring is installed (for cqb) then the rof will increase and you should use a 7.4v lipo to prevent excessive wear.
DO NOT grease the gearbox as described by SFR023 this is completely wrong!
The gearbox contains plastic, metal and electrical parts - to service or lubricate you need to open the gearbox and treat each part to the correct lubrication. One lube will mess up the other parts.
The smell could be some burning of the trigger contacts - but nothing to do with the LiPo battery. If you do a lot of long fully auto shots then this can happen.
For the price that is a decent gun - BUT like most co2 NBB pistols it shoots above 375fps so will not be welcome in most indoor cqb game sites (usual 350 fps limit) - so ok for an outdoor backup or garden plinking.
The KWA 2GX gearbox is one of the best on the market. KWA do not port their piston heads as they consider porting a way of getting a good seal from a poor seal design/manufacture they just make the seal right. They do minimal gear shimming as their gearboxes are better toleranced than most.
This combined with bearing spring guides, 9mm bearings, sector clips and reinforced shells make for a rock solid design.
YES no problem
High torque motors have a flatter speed / torque profile ie they are not the fastest with low power springs but will pull most springs with a good speed. High speed motors will pull low power springs fast but slow down with heavier springs.
Dont bother - the usual std barrel is 6.08mm, the KWA is already fitted with a semi tight 6.05mm one.
Just use it and enjoy it.
If after a few months you want a Tighter barrel then a 6.03mm one is best as the 6.01 versions need a much more rigorous maintenance and pellet selection regime.
Is you gun new? If not have you cleaned it using the unjamming rod?
The KWA hopup unit and bucking are good items therefore either they have been badly asembled- a warranty claim - or someone has cleaned/unjammed the barrel with the hopup wound on and damaged the hop rubber or nub.
get a rech to look at it - if new get it fixed under warranty.
It could be the bucking - if it is not fitted right it can be wrinkled and act like a lateral hopup. The barrel could be badly installed into the hopup without the spacer ring?
If it is brand new get it fixed under warranty.
The measure is the diameter of the bearing and the fitting hole in the gearbox shell. you cannot fit 8mm bushings in a 7mm hole, and do not need to do so.
Bushings do not need to be large as the gear shaft is the same size and this is the bearing surface. The only reason for larger bearings is if a ball bearing (not solid) is used as the ball bearing load capability depends on the diameter and bearing area.
Dont guess use a chrono to check the fps - all shops and fields have them - then use the rule
fps -100 / 1000 to get the weight
400 fps - 100 = 300 /1000 = 0.3
450 - 100 = 350 / 1000 = 0.35
This is an approximate value and for a sniper vary up wards for stable flight.
There are two issues - voltage and current delivery. The 7.4v Lipo will have a lower voltage than a 9.6v Nimh but will deliver a higher current IF NEEDED.
A 7.4v Lipo is probably the BEST for wear and tear on a gearbox while delivering a good rof and trigger response.
It will deliver a rof similar to a 9.6v nimh and LESS wear on the gearbox/motor due to a lower voltage
The advice on good shimming is GOOD and helps with gearbox life..
STMaster is correct to show a better alternative - The King Arms Has a wicked metal body with engraved trades and a 7mm bearing gearbox - its just a better gun.
I bought some Magpul handguards and stocks from hong kong and tricked it out for peanuts to make a real nice gun.
try dealextreme and ebairsoft for parts.
I would always go with the ICS - Internals are better but some non standard parts will make upgrading just a bi more tricky.
Apologies for being wrong about the KA reccomended - I glanced at it and thought it was the model I have which is really better than both these.
http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_44_485&products_id=33573
As a first serious buy either an AK or an M4 is a good choice with lots of upgrade possibilities. I would suggest a good mid priced gun - the King Arms M4 is a good choice t about $200 plus you need a battery and charger.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=8195
The Magpul is a really nice gun but the KWA will be a better long term deal - stronger gearbox from start and LiPo ready, easily upgradeable - only special bit is the nozzle - rest is standard.
Plus you have $100 to add any Magpul bits you want
Try Dealextreme.com for some bargains
It IS 363mm standard M4 carbine length specs below (manufacturers data)
Make/Manufacturer Javelin
Model Number JEBR104
Method of Operation Automatic Electric Gun (AEG)
Fire Control Selection Safe - Semi - Full Auto
Caliber 6mm Airsoft BB
Battery Type Mini Type or Custom
Motor China Made
Average Velocity 370 feet per second
Muzzle Energy (w.0.2g) 1.27 Joules
Effective Range 165 feet
Sights Adjustable Front and Rear
Cyclic Rate of Fire 600-700 rpm
Overall Length 840mm
Weight 3200 g
Barrel Length 363mm
The AGI G700 is an upgraded JG rifle.
The upgrading replaces some parts to improve accuracy AND replace weak parts - so yes the AGI are good out of the box. There are other upgraded alternatives - check out the UTG models for better value option.
Try CNCMans shop also.
The standard barrel is usually 6.08mm, a TB 6.03 will improve grouping out to a longer range - they really are linked.
The bucking will improve consistancy improving accuracy, fps will only really improve if you sort the air path sealing - O-ring nozzle, better hopup unit, - or replace the spring.
FPS is not an accuracy improvement - needs consistent hop unit.
As long as you have a positive ratio with a small margin to account for some air losses then the BB will have left the barrel before the cylinder stops.
The worse the air path efficiency the greater the margin required.
Also a type 0 cylinder has no vents so you cannot do better with a standard diameter cylinder.
The guys are right - but a decent piston O-ring, O-ring nozzle, decent seal on hop rubber and good quality hopup unit are all possible upgrades. - but test it first
If you want higher ROF then the obvious route is a Lipo battery you could use a 10.8 nimh but I am not sure it will fit.
You cannot upgrade the battery without attending to the gearbox. If you dont do some work on the gearbox you will break it.
Shim the gearbox, clean and regrease the gears, time the sector gear, add a delayer clip, ensure the piston is good - preferably with the second tooth removed and a metal last tooth to prevent wear.
Then run the gun and see if the gears will stand up. They should.
The CYMA AKs are pretty decent , any of the stamped steel versions are good, but do a bit of sorting when you get it - see if the gun is noisy or runs smoothly - if noisy reshim and regrease the gearbox.
They are not clones of CYMA - Echo1 do not make guns, they licence, and specify guns to be made by OEM suppliers, the Red Star AKs are made by CYMA to Echo1 specifications. With a dose of additional Quality Assurance.
Good range and accuracy - just as CYMA
Use silicon oil on the air path items - magazine charging and output valves - twice a year, and if you use propane add it to the gas adapter.
Use either silicon grease or a very little white lithium grease on the slide rails - usually metal. To do this you have to demount the slide. - every 2000 rounds or 6 months
clean the barrel with a a little silicon oil on a scrap of cloth or tissue every month or two.
This is totally dependant on your skirmish role - If you want an outdoor Long range gun the M14 is good, the mp5 is good for short range and indoor/cqb use.
YES
I have this setup so I can charge both deans and tamiya batteries. The current draw on charging is about 5 amps max - dependant on charger setting -but driving a motor it can be from 10-15 amps (or more with a really strong spring) which is why deans are better.
Are you talking about camo on the rig or your uniform?
Uniform should be Multicam or MTP in this mixed environment,thats exactly what it was designed for.
For the rig itself then you could use Multicam but often a solid color is fine - Coyote or Olive. and break up the rig with various colored (not matched) pouches. Also you can use a single color rig with more than one uniform camo.
High cap is a mag with a reservoir and a wind up BB spring, 250-400 capacity, Mid cap is BBs loaded directly against a spring with 75-160 BBs capacity, Real cap is similar but 30 rnd capacity.
Some milsim games only allow real or midcaps.
Pmags are designed for M16 and M4, but are tight on SA80 (UK) and some other European guns as they are not quite to the base size specification - so Emags are slightly smaller to suit.
Use a 7.4v lipo then it will be fine - it can be made '11.1v lipo ready' but needs all the usual stuff done
Complete shim and lube job, improve gears if needed, proper air path upgrade, spring bearing,
Then see what breaks and fix it.
DO NOT buy these mags they are utter crap. I have a KSC Glock and ordered these - they are both broken - within a week of delivery. Feed shit, leak and the plastic feed lips both sheared off.
If you want extended mags get the real ones from a reputable US supplier.
SORRY - jumped to conclusions - these mags are the real deal and should be fine - I bought the AABB chinese clones and they were bad - misread supplier as EBairsoft. Heres the link for the KWA/KSC originals
http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?cPath=23_57_448&products_id=33814
That is a Mosfet wiring loom where the +ve is connected and the -ve is switched by a Mosfet. To convert to a normal one you have to open the gearbox and rewire the two red wires to use the trigger switch.
Easiest is to buy a cheap mosfet - $15-20 and use it - google AB Mosfet
Mechboxes are zinc ( silver coloured) but the cylinder is coloured. Cheaper sportlines are blue, others can be silver or brass coloured. If you have a tightbore and the gearbox bushings are metal then you have either an upgraded sportline gearbox or a proper CA gearbox.
The battery is fine but you will get better ROF with a 11.1v lipo. You do not need an ultratorque motor for a sp110 spring, and the gear ratio has more influence on ROF.
Do a decent shim job and lube on the gearbox , fit a delayer clip, trim the 2nd tooth on the piston, fit a silent buffer and a spring bearing and use a lipo for a ROF setup - then fix anything that does not stand up.
CA and Ares both produce good guns - as long as you dont consider the CA sportline guns which have inferior internals, lower grade gears and plastic bushings.
Generally this is a combat machine with a few external frills - rails etc - but a big NoNo is the short inner barrel they state that it is 363mm long ie same as M4A1 so this is well short of the correct length for this gun as a DMR. This means they have probably left the original M4 type ported cylinder on so any longer barrel would need a different cylinder to optimise.
How about a full metal king arms M4 for $210, just add battery and charger!
high quality body, decent gearbox with bearings not bushes, check the reviews!
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/King_Arms_Full_Metal_COLT_M4A1_Airsoft_Carbine_AEG_p/cb-18970-ka-ag-20.htm
P90 is good but magazines limit the skirmishability - long mags and only really good for cqb - Zackox is right the M4 is easier to mod/repair and more versatile for general and cqb use.
That is a standard M4A1 wired to front with a Law Enforcement stock so battery is in the front handguard. It will take a mini 8.4/9.6v battery or a butterfly battery of the same volts or a 7.4v lipo mini.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_47&products_id=3360
I have a Magpulled M4 and it depends what look you want. The reproduction sights are all basic LED models with red/green LED dots/crosses. For an up to date / desert look the Holo looks great I have an XPS2 clone , for a more classic look the ACOG style replicas are good.
All good guns - M14 tends to have higher accuracy at long distance, consider a KWA with rock solid gearboxes, otherwise the G&P is a great gun, high end King Arms are also good. No gun lasts forever, but if you dont uprate the spring to high levels it will last longer.
50 fps is not enough difference to make a semi-auto worth it.
If you want to mix roles then get an accurate 400 fps gun - say a decent M14 - that has enhanced accuracy - TB barrel and decent hopup. This will do both roles well.
G&G Toptech use brass or copper heads and are good quality. This could be from any good supplier - brass is good for shock absorbtion as it is heavy and damps the piston - best to use a rubber/sorbothane damping pad. No real down sides.
No
You get the motor you need for the setup you have. If it is a stock gun and OK then you dont need one.
If you fit a high fps spring M130 plus then you will probably need a high torque motor unless you sacrifice rof by using high torque gears. If you want to uprate the rps then fit a high speed motor, but be prepared to have more gearbox maintenance.
There are a few exceptions but nearly all inner barrels have a common hop up interface - certainly all common makes of clone guns do. CA, KWA, King Arms, GG, GP, etc
This gives a common outer barrel fit (with the washer/olive) and common cutouts for hop nubs.
Where a spcific type of gun is indicated (AK, M4, M14) this is due to barrel length, where a specifc MAKE of gun is quoted (Innikatsu, Marushin etc) then this could be a special fit.
I use 7.4v lipos on all my stock guns - CA Sportline (plastic bushed gearbox!), King Arms, CA M16 with KWA gearbox (I suppose that is upgraded!).
The maximum voltage that a 7.4v lipo generates is 8.4v fully charged and will NOT damage any standard AEG. The speed generated will be between an 8.4v and 9.6v Nimh as it does not suffer from voltage droop under high current loads.
It sounds like you have a poor shim job - causing binding or a wrongly timed gear. Unless your battery is shot.
Get onto youtube and search for airsoft tech and you should see bot Echo1 and Oddys airsoft videos on gearbox setup.
G&G combat machine like CA Sportlines are not as good as higher end guns - you get what you pay for.
G&G Toptech are good as are CA, KWA, VFC, King Arms etc
As long as your gun wiring is not faulty then yes - it will not discharge any quicker. If there is any defect in the wiring or trigger then there could be problems. If you have a Mosfet fitted then there will be a small current drain. It is good practice to remove the battery, and ensure it is fully charged prior to any game/use.
YES a lipo balance charger from $25-$60 depending on charge speed and veratility.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_74&products_id=7786
http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html
Apart from a decent shim and lube job in the gearbox, you might need to replace the bearings with metal bushings - probably run it and see if the bearings hold up, you are likely to need a high torque motor - the guarder infinite torque motor is a good one, and as for gears again run it and see. I would fit a ball bearing spring guide if not already fitted.
Just checking - a 20" barrel M4? Must be a long barrel DMR style one 20" = 500mm plus inner goes into hop unit so about 510mm
Standard barrel lengths are
M4A1 - 363mm
M16 and M4 DMR12 - 509mm
M16 VN - 550mm
Same as for a boy. Just depends on what is comfortable to fit your frame and light enough to carry. Carbine M4s are good for most people, and get a decent sling to take the strain.
This does not say what standard the gun is made to - it could be any!
If a gun is so bad that the seller is saying you need a replacement hopup before it can be accurate you need to avoid it!
Get a decent basic AEG as a skirmish gun.
All gun manuals show you how to operate the hop up. It usually has a wheel that you turn one way to apply hop and the other way to turn it off. For more specific info you have to specify the model and make of gun so -- M4 by KWA for instance to get more detailed info.
Both guns shoot at 360-400 fps, have batteries supplied and are good durable starter guns.
The G36 is probably a better CQB gun but only marginally better.
This is YOUR choice - both will do the job. Just buy a decent smart charger $30 and a spare mag and you are set.
Just cosider your intended loadout - US services use the M4, Opfor and European or civilian/police may use the G36.
Check out thr 'Scopes' ... 'Accessories' section on the online airsoft suppliers - they have a variety of protectors from Killflash covers for acog the Eotech plastic clips and flip up general protectors from Matrix.
You can install a buffer tube sling mount - just make sure you get the one with the 3 cutouts for the stock tube shape.
http://www.airsoftpark.com/product_info.php?products_id=2588
Yes - Lithium only for metal to metal gears and nowhere near plastics/rubber. Silicon grease or silicon oil lube everywhere else.
Only case elsewhere is if your GBB pistol has metal slide and a metal rail insert - use a LITTLE white lithium here as Silicon is not durable enough.
No - both of these are plastic bodied, the CA is a sportline based gun with gearbox internals that suck - I know I have one - and the GG has experienced some quality issues recently.
I would go for a good base M4 to start with and trick it out later. You can get a decent King Arms M4 metal body, 8mm bearing gearbox model for $200-220, battery and charger extra.
You can get a cheap MOE front hanguard clone for $12 and a decent flashlight barrel mount for $5
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/King_Arms_Full_Metal_COLT_M4A1_Airsoft_Carbine_AEG_p/cb-18970-ka-ag-20.htm
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/pts-moe-hand-guard-for-airsoft-cs-gun-toy-73828
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/2-75-inch-flashlight-and-laser-universal-gun-mount-5819
My one is metal - bought in the UK - but no reason to think thay would change it!
Later...
Looking closely at the Evike review on Youtube you can see the hop unit is cast metal.
If you are just charging Nimh batterys then a reasonable one is $30 from most airsoft sites. For Lipo capability as well then you will spend about $50
http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html
You dont upgrade the fps - you upgrade the gun to deliver accuracy and range. FPS is useful in this but Not all there is.
Stage 1 - get your existing setup performing to the optimimum level
Clean, shim and regrease the gearbox, ensure the airpath is good - decent o rings on nozzle and piston, cylinder head, replace plastic bushings with metal ones.
Stage 2 - replace inner barrel with 6.03 TBB and new hop up and bucking/nub
Stage 3 - Uprate the spring together with decent torque gears and improved piston with tooth 1 removed, timed properly for good engagement.
Stage 4 - Uprate speed with higher rated motor and gears, sector clip Mosfet atc
Stage 5 - Repair gun every 4-6 weeks.
Yes iy is a better shape for batteries.
My MOE hg easily takes a decent sized 7.4v lipo but be aware there are some internal ribs that can foul a very large battery.
It is usually possible to either remove or disengage a blowback system on an AEG - not on a Gas Blowback as it is inherent in the system.
Difficulty depends on the system used.
Why not just get a non blowback AEG?
On the left side there is an adjustment knob with a coin slot screw cap - this is the battery housing and using a coin you can unscrew the cap and replace the button battery.
I would get a better gun to start - say a KWA or G&P - and then use it stock for a while to shoot it in and decide what (if anything) you want to do to it to improve your gameplay. While you are using it you can save up money or gradually acquire the wanted upgrades.
Is the problem in the hopup unit or directly in the barrel? Might be wrongly fitted , distorted hopup, wrongly fitted bucking or wrongly made or damaged barrel. If the problem is with the barrel then a replacement one is required about $25-40 - have you spoken to Evike? they might be more helpful than you think!
Are you crazy? To upgrade to a 160 spring you will have to do a complete gearbox rebuild with high torque gears, piston and head and silent kit, ultra torque motor, Deans connectors, high quality battery, reshim, bearing metal spring guide, - Just a new gun internally.
KWA are a good quality Taiwan based supplier, with a good US internal distribution and customer service arm KWAUSA. The are also the OEM supplier for KSC of Japan.
It depends what your loadout/function is, for a Vietnam loadout and look get the wood, for a modern tactical DMR (modern marksman) role then black and fit rails etc.
You need to post the exact spring as they vary - if you mean an M160 spring then a complete rebuild is required as it will shoot very hot - 500+ - some 160% springs will shoot at as little as 400 fps and would require less gearbox work.
Assuming is is standard and 380-400 fps:
0.25 bb's are probably better and any decent make is fine - KSC, Echo1, TSD, Bioval, G&G, Madbull,etc -
Not Matrix, Crossman etc.
A lipo battery can be bought/fitted with any plug but usually Deans or XT60 plugs are reccomended for best performance - It is easy to fit the plug and socket to Gun and battery.
In addition to a balance charger you should get a low volt alarm - $5 from any r/c helicopter model supplier.
On the odd occasion - no problem but it needs fully discharging frequently to reset the battery capacity otherwise it will get a memory effect and reduce the capacity.
If the battery was 9.6Volt or below then this is fine - you must have trapped a wire or stripped some insulation during the upgrade - Zack is right you will need a rewire. New looms are available from most online airsoft stores.
Lets put some of this misinformed rumour to bed.
The main reason for gearboxes to 'blow' at the front is a combination of high rated springs , cold weather and usually poor air tightness. The piston is the poorly damped and impacts the gearbox.
Improving the air seal is a good thing.
Ball bearing spring guides are good generally, cylinder head ok,
Unless you have a highly rated spring then aluminium piston heads are not required. If you fit alu piston heads, then a Sorbothane buffer is a good idea.
Nozzle can be alu or plastic the important thing is the Orings.
Assuming 470 fps is with .2 standard bbs
Reccommended bb weight is in the 0.3 + weight as this will give the most stable shot. Anything from .27 to .37 would be good.
Use a good bb such as Bioval, KSC perfect, Echo1 or TSD.
If you use 7.4V lipos then yes, but the 11.1 volt lipo actually has a maximum volts of about 12.6v so will over stress most setups not specifically tuned for higher volts/speeds.
Take a serious look at the King Arms M4 metal body series, shoots about 360-370 fps, about $230 base - my upgrade was a Magpul MOE front with rails about $20 from hong kong with included Rails. Good hopup and a great realistic body.
Lets set a few things straight. Most metal receivers are zinc cast bodies known as pot metal. This includes ALL of the high price guns except Systema - Plastic bodies are fine if the original is plastic = G36 or Famas etc
For M4 or AK guns - metal bodies are the real thing and required. Plastic body M4 or AK are severe compromises.
Pros - nice sound
Cons - more complex, non standard systems, either more motor stress or takes power from spring, heavy bolts will cause movement off-aim in full auto.
You will need to fit a delta ring to the receiver - this will need a gun wrench to do so. So add an extra $10 or so for this, and you need a handguard cap retained by a standard triangle front sight or special sling mount block. You should not need to change barrels
If not confidant get a more experienced airsofter to help - even a shop should only charge a few dollars as it is a quick conversion.
The latest Dboys metal guns are a real step up from the older ones - the S system has had good reports on Youtube and looks like a great starter gun. This is on par with a JG.
It depends on the skirmish and the game style. For a full day - 6 hours plus - AND a spray and play or Support Gun role you could get through 2-3 standard 1200 mah batterys. For a normal 3-4 hour skirmish and sensible use of semi and full auto then one decent battery properly charged should be OK. As Stryker says invest in a decent smart charger.
I would get a KWA or KSC GBB pistol varies from $120 to $160 and a couple of additional mags
1911 models are good for historical loadouts, bur a USP compact is a good light modern rig.
Motors are a standard format with either long - M4, short - AK, or medium - some strange guns!
They fit fine in a MOE handguard. Some issues with the grip angle have been seen but this is not clear and most guns a fine.
The MOE is designed to fit in standard handguard spacings - mine is a tight fit but does fit with standard sight mountings - I suggest you refit the sight to the correct place and look at the delta ring - some are not compatible with standard fittings - these can be replaced.
Get it repaired under warranty - thats what warranties are for!
Sounds like the gears are locked up - maybe the anti-reversal latch has been displaced by the decocker?
For mags you need a thin silicon oil so it penetrates the seal area - check out some of the spray lubricants - but it MUST be pure silicon NOT WD40 or similar mixes.
The general rule is - aim for the centre mass you can see - if someone is in the open then aim for the torso, a better chance of a long kill - if only the head is shown as often in cqb then aim for the centre of that.
As a Brit I hate to say this but if you take the KWA you cannot lose - I have KWA and King Arms M4 guns and they are both top draw. With the KWA shading it in internals.
Get the L85 if you want a Brit loadout or really accurate short gun (Bullpup design)
Lipo batteries have a voltage per cell at which thay are 'fully discharged' if you go below this voltage you stand a chance of damaging the battery - use a lipo alarm - $5 from any Radio control helicopter model shop.
The reasons for using Lipos are not just high ROF. At the basic level thay can provide more gaming time in the same space - and cheaper. I use either r/c helicopter batterys, or reclaimed laptop batterys to make up 7.4V Lipos that can fit most guns. - Better trigger response as well. You only need to upgrade internals if 11.1v lipos are used due to the increased speed of motor and gearbox internals.
The Lipo will have a higher current delivery capacity depending on the 'C' rating - usually between 15 and 30 - so it can deliver between 50 and 90 amps - and this will improve any trigger response. To deliver best response a Deans or XT60 high current connector is required. The Nimh battery will have about a 30 amp capability.
For Lipos C x ah = 15 x 3.3 = 49.5 amps
As a GUIDLINE you can take 100 from the fps and divide by 1000 to get a suggested BB weight for optimum stability
415 -100 = 315 / 1000 = .315 so close to 0.30 so to get best range/stability - a 0.27 to 0.32 would be good, for an auto AEG at the lower end and for a sniper at the higher end.
NONONONONO
This is complete rubbish - plastic gearbox and is not skirmishable.
Try a CYMA AK as a starter or a JG/Dboys
You will need to spend $115 - 150 to get a viable gun.
Airsplat, Pyramidair, Airsoftmegastore are all possible low cost stores.
Airsoft Miniguns are primarily designed to be vehicle mounted, and used as part of organisors assets for gameplay operations. $3000 is based on a low production run and complex design and build costs. Not individually skirmishable unless you have the muscles of Arnie and the Money of Bill Gates - BB costs would be horrendous.
CO2 is the most 'powerful' gas but not generally used for GBB pistols as they are not designed for it. Some GBB rifles are designed for CO2 and have proper magazines to suit - these are on the high end usually. Some non-blowback CO2 guns exist and are a good solution if you can get the correct fps.
Red gas is not used much now as it contained some CFC gasses which are now banned in many countries. Propane = Green gas in terms of power.
The KA is fully compatible with standard M4 rails
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_37&products_id=4938
The Magpul panels are sectional rail covers not rails.
I went the Magpul MOE handguard route with fitted rails
http://www.ebairsoft.com/magpul-handguard-p-3556.html
For a carbine length gun a single point sling with 2 point 'storage' capability is good - this means you can use it on one point as a shooting sling with strong and weak side pointability (left or right hand). And if you need to climb or do something else you clip it to 2 point and store it out of the way on your back.
I use the Irene Adaptive Sling - great quality. See Youtube and type in irene sling for some good vids - CNCMan has done a review.
King arms all the way - I have the Colt traded metal bodied version now fitted with MOE handguards and Vltor stock - good gun out of the box and easily upgraded. Great hopup and good quality internals.
http://www.pyramydair.com/s/m/King_Arms_Colt_M4A1_Metal_AEG/2472
http://www.ebairsoft.com/magpul-handguard-p-2055.html
http://www.ebairsoft.com/vltor-style-imod-stock-p-3616.html
If all you need is good trigger response then fit a simple braking Mosfet and use a 7.4V Lipo with a high mah and 20+ 'C' rating. This will give a really good trigger response not limited by current draw.
11.1 v lipos would require more gearbox work to use.
I use a custom 7.4V lipo in a crane stock - made from tubular NOT square cells. No problem to fit and gives good response without frying internals. But you need to get familiar with the discipline of using the technology with special balance chargers and battery monitors in use.
NO
Unless you are in a woodland outdoor game there is no point as you will be limited in firepower and not have the benefit of long range. Mout - ie outdoor urban games will have a use for snipers due to the available cover.
First get a decent smart charger this will optimise any battery pack.These can be bought at most stores for between $15 and $30.
Then check the length of your current battery in the gun - do you have room for an extra cell in length?
An extra cell would give you a 9.6v battery, if not then you are stuck with an 8.4v one. You can fit a 1400-1600mah battery in there of the stick type - the more mah the better for long use. They can be bought from any of the major airsoft shops - Tenergy and Intellect are OK brands
You dont mention gears - decent steel ones required, fit a sector clip for feed improvement, Madbull springs are fine, ported piston head, bearings on metal spring guide and piston head, piston with 1 and 2 teeth removed, decent shimming, ......
The body is made of a low melting point Zinc alloy commonly known as pot metal. This cannot be hot welded, but as others have said an epoxy filler such as jbweld can be used to repair.
The S-Thunder co2 grenade is the best quality and value as a 40mm shot shell and the Thunder b are the best value hand grenades. You do not specify what you want?
I have the Guarder Infinite torque and can reccomend it, and Lonex make a decent motor- for a cheaper alternative the SHS and X High-tec motors have decent reviews,
The wear and tear on gearboxes should not be an issue for either battery, as they do not overspeed the internal components beyond their design. It is often not an issue of component quality but of shimming, and other design issues including feeding (use of a sector clip helps) and bearing quality - replace any nylon bearings with metal.
The ROF is a complex affair NOT just to do with Volts but also Current capability including wiring resistance and connector resistance. A Lipo battery will be able to deliver more current so IF your motor is being slowed by lack of current , it will speed up. Generally a 7.4 Lipo will give a similar or slightly lower ROF tha a 9.6V Nimh pack - but this depends on all the other factors.
Lipo advantages - small and lighter for similar capacity - can get more capacity in small spaces. Consistant current delivery over long bursts, very high short burst capability.Can be cheaper if Radio Control packs used.
Lipo disadvantages - Need better charging and discharging management with balance chargers and low voltage alarms.
The myths about KWA non standard parts are bunk. Some KWA body parts are a bit special but most of the gearbox parts are industry standard - gears, spring , motor, all the bits you need to upgrade! I have a KWA V2 2GX gearbox running in a King Arms metal body with Madbull hopup and Magpul furniture. No problem.
Originally a magpull was a strap , often home-made, fitted to the base of real steel M4 mags to allow them to be easily pulled from storage pouches - taking seconds off the reloading downtime. Not much of a problem usually but pretty lifesaving in a firefight in Iraq or Afghanistan.
One company made good commercial versions hence the brand Magpul was born.
Magpul now make a variety of innovative accessories for real steel guns, all designed to improve the users capability. As radical says Magpul PTS was formed to produce similar/despecced items for training weapons / airsoft.
I have never known an Echo1 ship without a magazine - the standard for E1 P90 is 1 or 2 mid cap 68 round mags. depending on the dealership deal at the time. The website at milspecairsoft indicates (2) after 68 round capacity?
You can fit a longer barrel but you need to measure any mock suppressor to find the additional length required.
A reasonable one is about 130mm long and replaces a 25mm flashhider, to prevent wobble use O-rings between inner and outer barrel / suppressor
363 + 105 = 468mm
Standard barrels come in 440 and 463 mm lengths to suit this
For a 650mm barrel you would need a 285mm suppressor ( 11 inch)
You dont say what fps you have - this is the most important number in determining pellet weight.
300 fps= 0.2g , 350 fps= 0.25g
have you tried cleaning the barrel, adjusting the hop up etc. You might have `a displaced or damaged hop up.
There are plenty of instruction videos on Youtube for this.
Like any moving parts the balance slides used need lubricating with either silicon GREASE or white lithium grease. Do not use white lithium if it will contact any rubber or plastic components.
This is not a simple fix - you have to dissassemble the gun and gearbox to access the switch and contacts - this will void any warranty and reduce any inclination of a supplier to help.
Needs someone with good tech knowledge to sort it. Return it if you can.
The AEG barrels for nearly all AEG's have the same Diameter (outer) and machining for hop access, but vary in length depending on gun and model. sometimes different suppliers vary by a few mm.
CQB - 280-300mm
P90 - 250mm
M4 - 363mm
MP5 - 229mm
Std AK - 455mm
FSG1 - 650mm
M16 A1 - 509mm
What AEG is it? - and what weight BB's shoot 250 fps?
This seems very low speed for an AEG. if this speed is with 0.2g BB's then use the lightest good quality ones you can get. This will be 0.2g BB's as 0.12 BB's are not good quality.
Usual calc is ((SPEED/100) - 1)/10 = BB weight (for AEGs)
250/100 = 2.5 .....2.5 -1 = 1.5...1.5/10 = 0.15g
350/100 = 3.5 -1= 2.5 /10 = 0.25g
Read the question chaps - it is a used gun so no warranty. This could be anything from a duff battery, shorted out connector, or most likely a trapped wire with stripped insulation. You will have to disassemble the gun and check all the wirinh looms for damage. Use heatshrink or amalgamating tape to repair.
Check out videos on Youtube - http://www.youtube.com/my_subscriptions?feature=mhee&s=gDiTZrOScCqkTIDxUP9raaMd-BV52SXg19no4he40LI
armor is right - if you use beyond a 9.6v NIMH battery (Not a Lipo zackox) then you will put greater wear and tear on all the gearbox components.
In addition to the rest a tooth removal on the piston, precise gear timing, spring bearings, and a sector clip to improve feeding will be required.
Matching motor, gears and piston is a must.
Be wary of which forum members advice you take!
Propane is the same as Green gas so if your gun will take gg it will take propane. Just use a designed adapter and som silicon oil.
Only damage is if your gun is designed for Duster gas.
Stop the nonsense
A low cost Smart charger will fast charge the battery until full and then switch to a very low trickle value that will not damage the battery unless left on for many hours. You should never leave a battery completely unnattended - go back every hour or two and take it off charge when indicated full. A really intelligent charger will ramp off the charge as it approaches the top voltage level and optimise the battery charge, and indicate full charge with a 'BEEP' The best source for chargers are the on line US radio control model suppliers.
The difference between a 30mm and 40mm dot sight is minimal but the 30mm sight illustrated just looks a bit more 'solid' 'robust' - nothing I can cite but seems a bit more chunky ? And if cheaper - why not?
The Javelin is a good economy gun - it ships with an 8.4V battery , if you wish to fit a 9.6V it should handle it. Anything more will require extensive gearbox work to sort or lower the gun life.
The battery will work fine - so will the gun - for about 5 minutes whysogrim is correct the gun is not rated for this battery it should work on a 7.4V Lipo but you need all the correct chargers, voltage monitors etc that thid technology needs.
Not for airsoft - it could get trashed, hit by BB's atc - a red dot is a red dot - If you want to spend more for a replica ACOG or other Cool sight fine, but the function is the same.
I do have replica ACOG and Eotech sights but with protective screens.
Nunchuck batteries fit these
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_47&products_id=7638
The gun is 7.4V lipo ready - what you would have to do to make it 11.1v lipo good, depends on the quality of the build and setup - make sure the gears are shimmed, timed and lubed properly, lube the air path components and fit a sector clip to help high speed feeding. Fit a simple Mosfet to protect trigger contacts. Use it until something breaks then fix it.
I googled it and found quite a few places - use google maps to get the right area then type airsoft in the search bar.
Ciatadel airsoft - worcester
xtreme action , east walpole
airsoft special ops , salisbury
federal airsoft, monson
ultimate battleground, bourne
I geuss you need the whole package, gun battery charger so here's my take.
Good performance and durability great King Arms quality - cool Magpul handguard and $10 over for BB's
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_44_485&products_id=33573
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/Airsoft_TENERGY_Premium_9_6V_NiMH_Nunchuck_Battery_p/acc-t9.6v-nunchuck.htm
http://www.hobbytron.com/TSDUniversalSmartChargerForNiCadNiMHBatteriesAirsoftGunAccessory.html
Cool Handguard
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_92&products_id=30869
The answer as always - it depends.
For CQB full seal goggles as you will be in close encounter all the time and have a high ocurrence of very close shots.
Outdoor you have a choice, full seal goggles are always the safest, but safety glasses and mesh are an acceptable risk based on the likelyhood of a close encounter an frequency of close battle.
Be sure NOTHING is risk free. Your field may have specific rules for scenarios or age - check.
I run all 3 types depending on circumstances - cheap and reliable Arena Flakjak goggles from
http://www.goggleoverstock.com/4.html
get some anti fog stuff from any military/airsoft retailer.
An open red dot sight can be had for $25 or so - wide field of view for rapid target acquisition.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_182&products_id=26704
If you dont have the supplied charger and need to buy one then get a smart charger - it is much better for the battery and you -
http://new.pyramydair.com/s/a/TSD_Universal_Smart_Charger_7_2_12V_for_NiCad_NiMH_batteries/1942
King Arms is a much better deal , one of the best full metal receivers, robust 7mm bearing gearbox, and great hop up unit. Costs a little more in the $220 range but worth it.
http://new.pyramydair.com/s/m/King_Arms_Colt_M4A1_Metal_AEG/2472
Make sure your hop up is wound off anf magazine removed, use the angled end of the unjamming rod - supplied with most guns - most airsofters have a few to spare, with the angled face facing down towards the magwell - it shuold push the bb out. Then clean the barrel using the other end of the rod, a scrap of cloth and some pure silicon light oil.
Review what bbs you are using - get e decent brand and dump any crosman/walmart/dicks ones.
.2 or .25 polished BB's from an airsoft store only.
This can happen with a lower voltage battery and a gearbox that is not quite adjusted for angle of engagement or has poor shimming or lubrication. Where the internal resistance is just too much for a half discharged battery. If you can get access to a fully charged 9.6 volt battery then if you run it on that in full auto it will likely cycle over and be ok. If not then you need to access the gearbox and trip the antireversal latch to release the spring. Then sort out the problem - get a tech to look at it.
I love mine - I have the one with full engraved COLT trades. Shoots 360-370 out of the box , good quality hop up unit, straight shooter. I have replaced the front grip with a Magpul FDE MOE and the stock with a VLTOR FDE crane stock, fitted with an ACOG it look sick!
I have King Arms, Dboys, Classic Army Hi-caps all fit and feed fine.
I use MAG 190 rnd mid caps and 'green label' Magpul 75 rnd mids. The MAGs work fine but the Star made Magpuls are a bit iffy - need a wedge of tape to get feeding well.
I geuss you want a folding stock?
The LR300 style stock can be fitted but will require dremel modification to the buffer tube support on the receiver - so no going back. there are some vids on Youtube showing this.
The best piston around is reckoned to be the Supercore piston expensive but good
http://www.epowersportsllc.com/airsoftparts001.html
G&G also do a very high grade one
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_148&products_id=1431
Without doubt the King Arms is better - full metal body with engraved trades, 7mm bearing gearbox, high quality hop up (KA hops are often fitted as upgrades) fantastic externals and great internals, real bargain for $200-250,
It depends on the CA. The sportline is a lower level starter gun similar to a combat machine, the higher level CA are good quality guns comparable to G&P - TM are a different proposition - usually lower power and plastic but high quality and well made.
The M14 platform is reckond to be one of the best longer range accurate guns - just a fortunate mix of hop up and gearbox seems to be accurate. Start where you can and upgrade as you progress.
Check youtube for reviews.
It appears to vary from CM type - but you will have a problem as the sight block holds the front handguard on, it may be easier to cut the sight post off if there is a problem or raise the optics up to clear the sights.
An M4 is too short to be a sniper rifle you will need either an M16 or even better an M14 if you want an auto sniper / DMR. There are plenty of reasonably priced spring snipers from UTG, TSD, etc see Crazy NC Mans youtube channel for a few suggestions.
As you are after a speed loadout a tightbore is less important. You already have a 6.04 barrel which is semi tight - normal is 6.08 - so not much point in upgrading. Do Not get a 6.01 tb as you then have a serious maintenance and BB regime to follow. No more matrix or medium cost BB's you will have to run the best quality ones and maintain the barrel and hopup meticulously.
Please do not heed people with little or no experience of this - the extra hassle is not worth it unless you are seriously hardcore and running highly modified high end guns. Start with a VFC, KWA or similar for this level of tech.
For a plastic combat machine / sportline rival these are OK guns and available for about £125 without battery. If you can stretch to £200 then a King Arms full metal gun is a whole lot better.
At the price point you have the SRC is a good choice.
If you want a longer barrel it will be better accuracy but the cylinder in your AEG is probably ported to suit a short barrel and would need to be changed if a longer barrel is fitted. All the components of an AEG have to match so changing to a longer barrel requires other work.
Have you adjusted the motor height - and is the motor shim washer in place? Check out the youtube as there are a number of vids on motor adjustment - sounds like it is not meshing properly.
Unless you play an indoor field where pistols are required then more mags is a better bet. A Pistol gives you 20 ish rounds a mag and each mag is $20 or so.
I dont understand your question?
But the answer could be the Guarder Ultra torque motor. - drives anything!
http://www.airsoftglobal.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_236&products_id=5304
Yes
You can buy high fps race guns specifically designed for target shooting - check out the Hong Kong suppliers for the best range. Redwolf , Ehobby asia etc
These are not cheap but powerful and accurate.
The AEPs you refer to are higher quality low end guns running < 200 fps so great for safe garden plinking but not for skirmishing - not expensive but no good for competetive airsoft.
Not so unusual but FULL engraved COLT trades (not printed) and nice metal body - 7mm bearings, 365-380 fps out of the box and $220-250
King Arms M4
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_150&products_id=7783
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=35307
Ther is no such thing as 100% no fog - you can get ESS fans that remove the fog for big bucks or a decent pair of goggle and treat them with anti fog spray.
I use FlakJaks with a decent antifog treatment. Decent goggles from a frustrated military order.
http://www.goggleoverstock.com/index.html
The so called suction effect occurs when the air volume coming from the cylinder is too small for the air volume in the barrel. It can happen in full cylinders if the air seals in the air path are not good and air escapes from piston, nozzle and hop unit. More often when a heavily ported cylinder designed for rapid fire from a short barrelled aeg eg mp5 or shorty M4 cqb or PDW is used with a long barreled gun 450mm+ standard M16 is 509mm!
They are ported to match air volume AND improve trigger response allowing the cylinder to accelerate quickly against no pressure for the firsy part of the stroke.
Get the reccomended ported cylinder for the barrel length and ensure good air path sealing.
The GG tightbore is 6.04, standard tb is 6.03 and either are good for general skirmish at a high level. A 6.02 or 6.01 will need a high level of maintenance and strict use of the best bb's unless you want jams.
6.03 is the right answer.
I reccomend AEG as there are many more mags, spares and selection available at all price levels. For Opfor the Cyma full metal AK's are good at an entry level, for US loadouts the G&G and King Arms are good low/mid price guns - KWA if you can stretch. Echo1 are a good entry level choice .
GBB are:
More realistic, but
limited by mags - low cap only
Dattguy means the NUB which is the part that bears on the hop bucking - it is not retained and can fall out if the barrel is removed fron the hop up unit (or maybe was not put in?)
It is the part that pushes on the bucking to top spin the BB - hop up!
It is supplied with new bucking or separately. about $2. In emergency you can use a piece of wire insulation about 1/8th inch long.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_170&products_id=3051
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_170&products_id=960
In the USA KWA and some others have stopped replicating Glocks for 'look and feel' copyright which is not valid many other places. I am in UK and Glock replicas are freely available.
I have classic army hicaps, MAG 190rnd midcaps, dboys 120 rnd vietnam hicap, dboys/jg 300 rnd hicap, all feed fine - green label magpul 75 rnd mids are a bit fussy and need a bit of tape to keep aligned.
Thats wth CA Sportline m15a4 and King Arms M15a4
NO WD40 is the devils lube - a real mix of various oils and definitely not pure silicon.
Silicon oil light - cleaning barrel, magazine internals and air path lube - piston head, nozzle, bucking, etc.
Silicon grease -piston runners and any other rubbing plastic parts
White Lithium - metal gearbox gears only.
A high fps gun is good for field use but fps without control is nothing. Decent barrel, bucking, hop unit etc required. But many fields will not allow such guns - and rated 'fps' is always done with a specified bb weight (usually 0.2g) so field limits are not evaded by higher weight bbs. Your gun is rated at 503 fps - many fields will not allow this level for an aeg.
The KWA 2gx gearboxes are designed for the higher stress and rates of fire with Lipo batteries - BUT if you have a low power spring in for CQB use ie < 350 fps then it is better to use a 7.4V battery as it will run very fast and over run without a Braking Mosfet fitted. Other wise it should be fine as long as it gets the proper barrel cleaning (semi tight ).
No as long as your trigger is not pulled and you do not have a short in the wiring. People usually remove batteries as a precaution against an unintentional shorting out of a wire in the gun.
G&P are a good brand but the longevity of a gun depends on you - treat it right , dont overstress it and clean and service it and it will last. Abuse it and it wont!
They replace the delta ring with a mounting ring that allows precise alignment with the receiver rail - see the video on asgi
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3707
They replace the delta ring with a mounting ring that allows precise alignment with the receiver rail - see the video on asgi
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3707
They replace the delta ring with a mounting ring that allows precise alignment with the receiver rail - see the video on asgi
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=3707
It will shoot approximately 30rps for about 5 minutes then fail. Unless you have done all the stuff you need to do for a high rof setup.
Complete shim job, short stroke the piston, sector clip, lightweight the piston, bearing spring guide, buffered piston head, o-ring nozzle, Mosfet, upgraded hop/bucking.
Plus replacement gears and pinion if required.
Sounds like the hop rubber may be displaced or damaged? OR your magazine is not feeding ok - have you tried alternate mags to check?
Otherwise you will need to remove the barrel/hop assembly and check it. There are lots of instructional vids on Youtube try echo1 techs video channel.
Madbulls are good barrels and perform well - its mostly personal preference or prejudice that dictates what people reccomend.
If its 6.03 and straight then it works, I have some Lonex barrels and they are great despite some adverse comment from people with strong views on one brand or another!
My preference is for the MAG brand metal 190rnd Mid Caps, I also have the 75 round Star Magpuls and they are feed fussy in my King Arms M4 - need taping to change the angle in the magwell.
The answer has to be Multicam - Multi environment Cammo - not he best in any but overall best compromise, now issued to both US and UK troops (UK MTP Multi Terrain Pattern)
NO
Two in gun possibilities - fit an MOE handguard and put the battery in that or use a lipo in the buffer tube otherwise a battery bag or PEQ box / RediMag battery case.
It's more of a range issue - both will be similar in inherent accuracy but the longer barrel should shoot further with greater accuracy. If you are playing mostly CQB the it wont matter too much - if using for field use then there is an advantage to the longer barrel - 225mm short, 357mm long inner barrels.
The DBoys is a good starter gun with potential for later improvement - at this price the metal body is a plus. The alternatives are mostly plastic body guns, or if you can stretch to $200 then the King Arms is a real good buy.
Are you crazy - the reason to buy a decent gun is NOT to replace parts. Even the most hardcore players will only check the shimming and timing. They do not replace stuff that is good quality for the sake of an 'upgrade'. The KA has decent internals and good hopup unit - the only replace for me is a TB barrel. But the original seems accurate anyway - does not seem 6.08 - could be 6.05?
Buy it and enjoy skirmishing with it before you decide if you need any upgrades. Mine shoots a healthy 375 fps and 13.5 rps with a 7.4V Lipo.
This is an M4 - it has a 360-373mm inner barrel depending on what ASGI fitted. And a ventilated cylinder to suit the barrel volume.
They fit the same general internals in all the M4 & M16 variants except the air volume parts to tune the output - so an M4 has a ventilated cylinder, and an M16 has a full cylinder. And where are you putting the rest of the barrel? in a mock silencer ?
I bought a set of Magpul front handguards with tri rails - still holds the battery fine and can mount what you like!
http://www.ebairsoft.com/magpul-handguard-p-3556.html
No - I have the KA M4A1 full metal and it is great value and quality - 7mm Bearings, 365 fps and fantastic externals - combined with a cheap lipo 7.4V it shoots really well - crisp trigger response and great hop-up.
If you have a Carbine gun and are no too short a single point sling interferes less with pointability and opposite hand transition. I use an Irene Adaptive Sling from Missionspec which also acts as a 2 point sling for back storage.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TQ38MaEyBg&feature=fvsr
For a long weapon a 2 point sling is usually more appropriate.
The VFC gearbox is 'good' and the KWA is better. People tend to push their KWA's to the limit - and beyond so they do break. VFC's have excellent externals and KWA have good ones. Dont overlook King arms as an option - a base $200 metal body M4 with decent gearbox and excellent externals. Upgrading with alternate handguard and stock will give a great value custom gun.
Two things are likely -
Have you undone the wiring bullet connectors in the front wiring set, and did you pull back the charging handle as this can catch on the gearbox.
Pretty much any non linear 120 spring will do the job - its basic technology and even low cost ones are fine. Low cost Matrix about $8 up to Guarder about $12 and Prometheus etc about $18
Either way it will not break the bank - I have used springs from china successfully with no problems.
(china springs are fitted in all CA's King Arms, and other good guns!)
Why get a different motor? If you are talking about the KWA SR7 it does not need any upgrade to the motor only a 120 spring - it shoots 350 out of the box and has the same gearbox and motor as the rest of the KWA lineup.
If AI says 8 mags is OK then I would stick with it - the function is just to add a bit of lube into the mags, if you start getting sticking valves and leaks then up it to 4 mags.
The BBs could be contaminated with flash (excess moulding plastic) that is rubbing off in the storage bag, I would use another brand after these are used up. Clean your barrel and mag stack after each days use.
Most guns are lipo ready. Any decent gun can run a 7.4V lipo, I would not include CA Sportlines or any others with plastic bushings. 7.4 Lipos are actually 8.4V fully charged and deliver current well so are close to the speed of a 9.6 NiMh in a smaller package.
For an 11.1V lipo you need to ensure the gearbox internals are decent, steel gears, sector clip, with an accurate shimming and timing job done, and you cannot use a low power spring or it will run too fast. A gearbox with 8mm bearings or above will cope better with the speed.
KWA gearboxes start with 9mm bearings but still need to be checked for shimming and timing. Like any other.
As the guys say look at a variety of gunsmith vids, Mecboxmechanic, Echo1 and Oddys have great vids on this - you'll need an Irish translater for oddys!
http://www.youtube.com/user/Mechbox6mm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfKgZFyr8rs
http://www.youtube.com/user/Echo1TechSupport
I will assume the MP5 is an aeg and the 1911 is a gbb.
MP5 - clean the barrel after every full days use, Lube the feed path in the mags every 2-3 outings (more if feed problems), Lube the air path (piston, o-rings, nozzle, cylinder head) if you start getting reduced fps - you will need to crack the gearbox open so NOT a regular job. If you crack the gearbox then clean and regrease the gears. Use silicon oil for all air path and mags, silicon grease for the piston runners and white lithium for the metal gears ONLY.
1911 - clean & lube the slide every month or so - grease depends on whether it is metal faces or plastic - silicon grease is a safe bet. Clean the barrel after each days use (not an hours plinking) and make sure the valves in the mag are silicon oil lubed occasionally. If you get a leakeing valve - remove it and soak in silicon oil for an hour - often fixes the leak.
WD40n is not good it is too light and has no endurance. Use heavy silicon oil or grease on the slide. Clean the wd40 off first as it also is not good for plastics.
The trigger pull on CA M4s is usually light and no adjustment is possible - none of the things you list affect it - battery, burst rate or anything.
If it is stiff you have a bind in the trigger area. needs a physical sort - check out the fit in the receiver.
You dont say where you are? EDIT your questio to clarify and you will get a better answer.
Evike have some spares
http://www.airsoftpost.com/index.php?cPath=26_118
The G36 hopup is very different to the M4 - It may have a damaged bucking resulting in a displaced nub or rotated barrel so the hop slit barrel slit is in the wrong place.
Here are a number of vids on the g36 hop to help
http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=g36+hop+up&aq=0&oq=g36+hop
That refers to the oil supplied for the AI adapter which should not be used DIRECTLY IN the AI Tornado grenade.
It fine for gas lube for all grenades and 40mm shells including the AI Tornado.
If you edit your question with a model number or detail type it would help as it could be front or back wired and hand grip or full stock or buffer tube/ crane stock fitted?
Unless it needs a buffer tube battery then the one that fits MOST is a butterfly / nunchuck 1400-1600 9.6v nimh. Even a small brick type LIPO will not fit in a crane stock or buffer tube.
If you bought it new call the store and get a reccomendation.
Why are you asking questions about metal bb shooting guns on a airsoft site? The clue is in the name- airsoft answers.
You cannot buy an air pistol in the UK unless you ar 18 years old. No license is required for adults.
If you current setup is on the limit of the motors capability then it is clear that ANY upgrade will cause more stress and require motor upgrading. Guarder ultimate torque or similar and maybe a new standard gear set to keep a higher speed.
If you start with a GG raider and upgrade you will have to get a new motor, if you intend to keep a high ROF then you will cause rapid wear on gears and probably piston. You need an excellent shim job on the gears and expect to replace something fairly quickly.
Get a 6.03 barrel as the maintenance on a 6.01 is much more rigorous, and you for this you can only buy the best BB's
First - King Arms produce very good guns - good internals and excellent externals
I think the problem was a conbination of people not really knowing KA as a gun maker but as an accessory supplier, and the original price was a bit high. I bought a base KA M4 with the same body and internals for a about $225 and tricked it out with Magpul handguard and VLTOR stock giving the same look for much less!
No battery will fit IN this gun. You will need an external battery solution.
Battery bag on the front - not a tidy solution.
ReadyMag battery box - probably the best solution.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_167&products_id=26037
PEQ Box solution - most readily available - make sure it is a short one due to the short rails.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_167&products_id=33005
It is not a matter of KWA going downhill just one of physics, to get the right combination of air volume filling and rate of fire / fps in a short barrelled gun the spring/cylinder (and venting) combination will be optimum for a particular voltage. There is insufficient resistance in the air circuit to absorb the extra energy from an 11.1 Lipo - thay should simply say that the short barrel AEGs are only suitable for 7.4 Lipos! Unless you fit a stronger spring and less vented cylinder.
In the UK where we have limited fps KWA have said that the gubs are not 11.1 ready due to the above.
Not an expert in 249's so I'll limit my answer to the lube part - NO metal gears require a more persistant grease than silicon - I use white lithium grease available from most Home depot or motor stores - will withstand the high pressure on gear faces.
For all plastic and rubber parts silicon is required, heavy on the piston slide, light on moving seals - pistons atc.
You dont say what battery?
Get a decent shim job done on the gearbox, and a decent 9.6 volt battery or a large 7.4 volt Lipo to get about 20 rps. Then you will have a gun that works in the long term.
You need a different cylinder - cqb type guns have a vented cylinder and longer barrels need a full cylinder to match air volumes. plus ensure a decent air seal on the nozzle and piston head.
A micro switch is a set of contacts designed to carry current and a mosfet is a solid state device consisting of one or two Mosfet transistors that conduct the high current with only a small current going through the trigger contacts.
It is similar to a large pistol battery 7.2V and with end contacts that fit into a charging dock. If you or a friend knows how to solder and is ok with electrics then you could fit a battery Deans/Tamiya to the dock and get a smart charger .
NO you must buy the correct size - this is the outside diameter of the fit in the gearbox shell, anything smaller will not hold in and anything larger will not fit. The inside diameter is standard to fit the gear axle.
Bushings have no benefit from larger size as the wear surface is between the gear axle and the bushing, bearings do benefit as the weight bearing surface is within the bearing and increases with size.
The correct fuse is a 20-25A wire in glass fuse - try motor factors (auto stores) or home depot.
Volyage is not important as you only need 12V capability .
The KWA hop up is good quality with decent bucking and nub - it works well. If you want to change it I believe you will need to also change the nozzle if it is the proprietary notched one.
The Tunigy Accucel is a fully automatic charger and discharger - I suggest you read the manual - here is a link in case you have lost it!
http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/Batteries/ACCUCEL_manual(2).pdf
Either your charger has killed the battery or you have a break in the wiring
Check the battery with a voltmeter - charged battery is about 1.4V per cell
Most likely breaks are the motor connections or the butt connections between the plug to the battery and the gearbox.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYnLdEayfb8
Bearings offer lower resistance and can be used in higher ROF setups to cope with the shaft speeds. The larger the bearing the better its load carrying capability, so use of 9mm needed for high ROF and FPS set ups - KWA fit these as standard now to cope with strong springs and Lipo driven speeds.
Bushings are not improved by bigger sizing, the area of bearing surface is the same, as the moving part is the gear axle - the same whatever the outside diameter. Just ensure they are good material and lubed correctly.
Larger bushings are usually fitted so the gearbox can have the same holes for bearings and bushings.
You need to be more specific as this varies with Manufacturer, front sight and barrel/moderator design etc
The inner barrel can also stop befor the end of the outer barrel.
That said - for a standard long M4/M16 with 10-12 inch RIS it is likely to be a 509/510mm barrel, with standard length of outer barrel sticking out of the RIS. With a short barrel treatment then a 363/375mm could be fitted.
CYMA make a great AK - cheaper guns suffer from a bit of quality variance but these are pretty good. Easier to work on than a type 2 gearbox and generally pretty reliable.
Mosfets do only one thing - let the motor have as much current as they are needing without running this high current through the trigger contacts.
You need to edit your question to be more specific about the attributes of the battery and spring etc of the gun. Hot batteries are due to exceeding the battery capability so if no short circuits then excessive use or incorrect battery spec.
You americans dont do Metric do you?
It looks like you need a Metric 3mm hex wrench - as Johhny said marked 3.0
Most Japanese or copied gear will have metric bolts
Increasing the spring rating will increase fps as it is the force that pushes the air cylinder in the gearbox, and will reduce rate of fire with the same motor and gears as they will have to work harder.
Do you really mean an M16 - without a top rail and with permanent carry handle? If so you need a weaver rail for the carry handle and this will fit .
If you mean an M4 then this is fine, I use one on my KA M4 and if you shoot with both eyes open then the red dot will appear on target. If you close your left eye (assuming you are a righty) then your sight picture will have a blurred front post in but still usable.
I have a KA M4 and its very nice metal body, working charging handle, bolt lock back to access hop up and 370 fps, I have tricked mine out with Magpul and VLTOR furniture and it looks sick.
Shoots nice with a 7.4V lipo.
VFC internals are generally regarded as very good with excellent externals, I have checked the VFC spare parts catalog for the gearbox, the bushings shown are NOT plastic but metal - I think CrazyNCmans comment on quality of forums is good!
The trigger contacts are inside the gearbox, above the trigger they can be seen in mechboxmechanics videos on Youtube.
You need to disassemble the gearbox to clean them.
The basic body and gearbox/mag feed system is the same. There are historical differences. They all are derived from the Stoner M16 of Vietnam era.
M16 - long rifle with fixed carry handle and triangular front handguard.
M4 - shorter carbine - some versions with detacheable carry handle - some with full stock or adjustable stock - some with front rail system.
Hi Guy
as a brit I assume your bargain GG is an overseas purchase - for me i would go with the GG bargain as it really is a much better platform than the AGM. You will spend more to get the AGM up to the GG quality than the difference!
Going from 400 to 300 fps has other issues. The FPS will increase drammatically so ensure the gearbox is properly shimmed or you will have reliability problems.
Take a reality check - KJW are ok guns but of mediocre quality . KWA/KSC are the BEST quality gas guns on the market - check out any forum. I have personally had a KSC (made ny KWA) Glock for the past 5 years and it has NEVER missed a beat in operation.
I would suggest that Winchestor is contributing beyond his expertise!
most rail mounts have two bars across where the tightening bolts are these must be seated correctly in the cross grooves, if the aimpoint is not central - have you got the right rail fitting - could be a 1/2 inch not a 3/4 inch fitting? Or a dual function base with reversible clamp to do both? The red dot can be adjusted by the windage and elevation screws on the top and side.
Since the Magpul parts are essentially the same it is dependant on the underlying quality - for this the King Arms JUST shades it. Either is a good bet.
I bought a King Arms base model and tricked it out with a Magpul FDE MOE front end and a VLTOR FDE stock, looks the dogs danglies!
I also bought a couple of pairs of FlakJaks direct from the supplier - proper military goggles, and you can use optics - if you have a problem then use a high optic mounts.
http://www.goggleoverstock.com/index.html
Nimh barreries can be recharged in less than 1 hour and have a 1.4X efficiency factor.
So for a 2500 mah x 1.4 = 3600 mah so 3 - 3.5 amps is ok. it should set volts for the battery type.?
The superbrain has a plug and play 3 amp charge mode so you dont have to do anything!
here are the instructions in case you have lost them.
http://www.modelrectifier.com/resources/batterychargers/rb960.PDF
Many sites insist that full seal ANSI rated goggles are used, especially for minors and definitely for CQB arenas.
You can buy more Gucci glasses later but your first purchase should be decent goggles.
Best deal for me are FlakJaks - real steel militay goggles. I sent to the USA for them and they are great in use.
http://www.goggleoverstock.com/index.html
Yet another is it lipo ready question - be prepared for the same answers - yes and no.
Any gun can run a 7.4V lipo and this will give benefits in length of play available in the same battery space - 2200 mah vs 1200 mah Nimh in the same size. But needs a balance charger and a bit of care.
Any gun can run an 11.1V lipo if it can be rated for the speed generated - this means that all components have to be good quality, gearbox shimming and timing must be set right, DO NOT use a light spring as this will run too fast, and a Mosfet trigger is a good idea to prevent contact burn.
G&G barrels are not standard length 363mm but 357 or 345 depending on the A4 or shorter carbine length.
So as Charlie said a standard M16 length barrel of 509 is best -
Two reasons for getting the M14, inherently M14 airsoft guns seem more accurate - they seem to have the perfect hop up. AND they can be used in a modern or historical load out.
M16 is dated for a modern load out BUT you can use all the magazines and upgrade parts available from the Armalite stable.
If you have almost stripped teeth after 15k shots the I expect that tha gearbox needed shimming and timing properly. Best to use a abs piston perhaps with a single metal tooth. Definitely replace the plastic bushings with metal 6mm ones.
Clean the gearbox first and sparingly regrease with white lithium grease on the METAL GEARS ONLY and silicon grease on the piston, silicon oil on air path seals - piston head seals etc.
Gears in the Sportlines are not regular CA gears but cheaper versions from cj=hina. - regular CA gears are good, but i would run the gears as long as no teeth are missing or badly damaged. It is worth upgrading as most gearboxes would need some work before use.
Hi Guy
not much near Fleetwood - Preston area has a few. See Airbana Maps for retailers and skirmish sites - if you phone retailers they generally know the local sites. Also Airsoft International magazine has a list of UK UKARA sites.
Dave UK
http://uk.airsoftmap.net/Skirmish/
Any gun is 7.4V lipo ready as it has a max no load voltage of 8.4V and DOES NOT force motors to work harder. It will give an fps between an 8.4 and 9.6 Nimh battery, but will be lighter and last longer as you can fit in higher mah.
Using an 11.1v lipo requires the gearbox to be shimmed and set up really well as it will allow the motor to draw high currents at 11.1v to 12.6v - so increased ROF. Also the gears and piston/cylinder end need to be really good quality and adjusted well.
It is NOT adviseable to use an 11.1v lipo with a low energy spring as you will get a very high ROF and overspin. Use of a Braking Mosfet will help control and prevent trigger contact burn.
Because Hong kong was a British colony before we gave it back to China it has an ethos of higher quality production than the rest of China.
China is catching up however and the most recent guns are getting really good - recent Cyma and DBoys are really improved helped by Echo1 and Cybergun QA requirements for rebranded guns.
Hong Kong is not in Japan and yes Taiwanese guns generally have a good quality control.
You need a full cylinder with no vent holes, sometimes called a type 0 - available from most retailers. Do not get a bore-up cylinder as you will need matched piston components for it.
Like any budget supplier it is up to you to take care.
Dont buy any AEG with an fps less than 300 - except a Tokyo Marui! it is likely to be low quality with a plastic gearbox.
Keep to the known brands, Classic Army, DBoys, Cyma, Echo1 , G&G, King Arms etc
Dont buy anything less than $100 (except a Cyma AK),
Dont get cheap BB's
In addition to Merlin and STM - make sure you can show them you have
ANSI rated goggles
Proper lower face protection - full face mask or Bitter end style mesh mask
And get some cycling arm sleeves - they can be great protection for lower arms
King Arms is basically a high quality parts manufacturer with exceptional quality receivers and hop up units and good quality gearboxes. I have after market receivers, hop units and one complete AEG - all have been exceptional quality.
Any company can have a lemon or even a batch problem, as KWA, CA and others have had.
A TK twist barrel can only operate at 330fps +/- 20 as it does NOT spin the BB but creates a cushion of vortex air between the BB and the inner barrel to stop BB bounce off the inner walls. A tightbore limits BB movement by reducing the gap between BB and barrel.
For a sniper rifle shooting heavy BB's at 330-350 fps a TK could be a good choice, but for a standard AEG a tightbore is the best choice.
You need a butterfly/nunchuck battery to fit into that stock 1600mah 9.6V is about the biggest Nimh
OR you could get a 2200- 2400 mah lipo 7.4V tubular cell battery.
Jonathan at airsoftology gives advice in podcast 42 on regular cleaning and use of specific BB's such as :
Biovals, KSC Perfects, Maruzen, Echo 1 high grades.
You will get a 7.4v lipo easily in a buffer tube and an 11.1v one is a squeeze. Some specialist buffer tubes are sold that are a bit wider inside ie made from extruded aluminium with a thinner wall to increase room to fit batteries.
A crane stock is the obvious answer.
Depends on battery and charger - FOR A FULLY DISCHARGED BATTERY
Battery mah / Charger ma X 1.4
so 1200 mah battery / 600ma charger = 2 hours X 1.4 = 2.8 hrs = 2hrs 50 minutes
OR just get a decent smart charger!
A Mosfet acts like a solid state switch so it takes the high current away from the trigger contacts and sends the current directly to the motor. The trigger contacts see only a small current so last a long time. Trigger response is also quicker and one with braking will short the motor (NOT the battery) to stop it at the right time to prevent overspin of the gearbox double feeding of BB's.
NO fps depends on spring strength and air efficiency - right barrel to cylinder volume match and air seal on nozzle and hop unit. Battery volts and current delivery gives RPS.
I would wash it with mild detergent and dry thoroughly - use Krylon paint as it suits plastics. You can key the surface if it is really smooth and shiny - with 600+ grade grit paper. Clean and dry after sanding gently by hand, not machine (machine grinding will change the surface shape).
Get a decent smart charger, battery that fits the peqbox with room to spare for a lipo alarm - and get a 25C rated battery with 1500-1800 mah minimum. Try HobbyKing or Hobbypartz for a decent price.
They have all the above for R/C Helicopters at lower cost than airsoft stores.
Lipo Ready just means properly adjusted and with decent parts!
So do a decent shim job on the gears - see oddys airsoft on Youtube, and time the sector gear correctly. Add a sector clip to the sector gear yo improve feeding.
The base gears in GG are OK but can be improved by an upgrade - I would run the gun till it fails before upgrading.
Piston needs last tooth removal and greasing with silicon to get decent air seal.
Upgrade the spring guide with a bearing. Upgrade the gear bushings to bearings if possible.
And add a Mosfet either a burst wizard or a braking Mosfet.
It probably has an M100 spring as this should give about 1 Joule of shot energy or 328 fps with .2g bb's.
And CNCMan is absolutey right the stock motor and gears in a CM are not up to the extra work of a higher spring.
This should fit an M4 OK as long as you have enough barrel length between the end and the sight block!
Check that you habe 80mm clear barrel before the sight mount or end of RIS/RAS rails.
As ASgeek says ensure tappet plate is properly fitted between the control ridges on the nozzle, low pressure can also be due to poor sealing - nozzle greasing or O-rings? plus a sector clip on the sector gear will help with feeding if not already fitted.
They require the same preautions as anyother airsoft or BB gun/rifle.
Eye protection at all times, face protection at CQB ranges and the usual requirements to keep your finger off the trigger unless on target and only use in a controlled field.
The white stuff is the primary anti fog coating on the lens as shipped, to improve air flow do the mod that CNCman detailed, and get replacement anti fog coating - Cat crap is a well known one or Abbey sprat works very well.
First identify the leak - like a cycle tyre - gas it up and put the exit valve, inlet valve and pressure relief button under water and then fit replacement seals or add lubrication as required.
Poor Sector gear timing is the likely cause together with a gearbox that is poorly shimmed and set up while running fast.
Trim the last piston tooth to prevent pre engagement.
VFC have good internals on a par with KWA. Lipo ready is not a single issue. ALL guns are 7.4 volt lipo ready. The usual problem with 11.1 volt Lipo use is that the gearboxes are not prepared properly for the high rate of fire. Needing decent shimming, sector clips, bearings not bushings etc. To run a high ROF you need highly modified pistons - tooth removal, piston buffers , and a Mosfet to limit contact burn.
I run most of my guns on 7.4v lipo as they are cheap and reliable. My one project gun on 11.1 needs much more maintenance - and is a KWA base.
ADMIN EDIT: This is not a forum and what you posted is not an answer to the question.
Never had KA mags so cannot comment - I mostly run MAG 190 mid caps metal mags - and they feed well.
You don't say how much you need to lower.
Compressing the spring can get 5-10 fps not nore
Removing the spring and clipping off coils will get 10-15 fps per coil
The only reason for the failure is poor sector timing - angle of engagement - and shimming, plus you should remove the last plastic tooth on the piston to improve life.
running a 115 spring with a 11.1 lipo needs a little work to start with. See the series of videos by Oddysairsoft on Youtube for a tuitorial on gearbox upgrade.
A mosfet will help with trigger contact spark damage but does not reduce the amps going through the wires to the motor.
If you often have this problem, then it is probably your playing style, full auto for extended periods without allowing the wiring and motor to cool.
You could get a 3 round burst fire controller to limit the length of fire or completely upgrade the wiring in you aegs to low resistance thin wall insulation wires and fit deans connectors to get the lowest resistance in the gun.
http://www.aegwizard.com/Home_Page.php
The Flakjaks are real steel military quality and way better than most airsoft goggles but dont pay that for them - I have 2 pairs and they are excellent!
http://www.goggleoverstock.com/index.html
Sounds like a failed cell - which will prevent balancing if the voltage is out of spec. - If you can get a balance voltmeter - Hobbyking , Hobbypartz or any Helicopter or R/C store then you can easily check. Only a few dollars. To prevent this you can get a lipo alarm for a few $ that will buzz when reaching low volts. I have a couple of each direct from hong kong.
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-multi-cell-lithium-battery-voltage-lcd-display-for-r-c-models-20024
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/11-1v-battery-alarm-buzzer-for-rc-helicopter-35609
Assuming you have a NiMh battery and not a Lipo!
Take the battery mah (1100?) and divide by the ma of the charger ( should be about 500?) to get the basic hours (so about 2 hours) then multiply by an efficiency factor of 1.4 so about 3 hours for a fully discharged battery.
The charger will have a ma rating this gives you the capability so:
battery mah / charger ma X 1.4 gives the time in hours for charge from flat battery. DO NOT EXCEED 5 HOURS CHARGING.(4 for a 1100 mah battery)
Best is to get a smart charger - Evike in US or Airsoft World in UK
For great quality and durability KWA V2 take some beating.
G&G version 3 gearboxes are a pretty good runner up.
Note these are versions not types, both are available in type 2 and 3
The only part that wears a little more is the trigger contacts due to arcing on each shot, this is a minor issue and cheap to clean. If it bothers you then fit a braked mosfet or soft start module such as the burst wizard.
All other parts will have their life extended.
FPS is dependant on the spring strength and air path efficiency - good sealing and good hop up.
RPS is dependant on battery voltage, current capability, and gearbox efficiency also gun wiring resistance and motor capability.
Increase can be had by using a higher voltage/current battery, replacing wiring harness with lower resistance one, changing connectors to deans, reshimming the gears, relubing gears and piston, and fitting a Mosfet.
Pretty much any gun is 7.4v lipo ready. Lipo is not some voodoo hex it is just a different battery chemistry with benefits and drawbacks as others. Benefits are a good short term current draw capability, drawbacks include a need for voltage management on charging and discharge.
Charging requires a good balance charger, and discharge needs a voltage alarm monitor to prevent over discharge.
The raptorairsoft blog is pretty good except that BUSHING size matters little as the wearing part is the same size and the minimal increase in volume has only a small affect on heat tolerance. For BEARINGS the size is important - the bigger the better as it increases the ball bearing load capacity, and hence higher spring forces. KWA use all 9mm for this reason to increase reliability.
Get rid of plastic bearings as contamination with gear grease can cause premature failure.
NO
You need a nunchuck/butterfly style battery the 1600 mah one fits - or a lipo
There is no room in the front handle, this is a rear sliding stock fit.
The best option is the S-Thunder long grenade - it has replaceable internals which are available for future maintenance and CO2 internals are available which provides much higher power.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_514&products_id=32596
http://www.s-thunder.com/en/
Lipo batteries can last many years depending on the depth of discharge and number of cycles.
You dont say what size battery but I would expect a much longer life.
NO battery can be fully charged in seconds except a Hyper capacitor.
If you are charging quickly and losing charge quickly it is likely that one cell is out of balance and may be a failed cell. Use a meter on the balancing plug to check voltage. These can be bought from any R/C model shop - Hobbyking or similar. I would also recommend an alarm in use as well - I bought mine from Dealextreme Hong Kong for peanuts..
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/digital-multi-cell-lithium-battery-voltage-led-display-for-r-c-models-10787
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/11-1v-battery-alarm-buzzer-for-rc-helicopter-35609
I use MAG metal mags and they are good - these appear to be sub standard or have a batch problem as there are some consistent bad comments on feeding issues. check the recent comments on the product link.
I have had no problems with any of the main hong kong suppliers including crw and ebairsoft.
Only thing to note is that getting parts through customs is ok but you need to make sure that your entitlement to import RIFs is clear if you want complete guns - display your UKARA reference clearly on the packet.
Plus all purchases over £18 are subject to VAT and a handling fee of about £10
KWA are a manufacturer, they make guns for themselves and for KSC. There is no difference in quality but some detail differences in design do occur. The KWA mp7 is more durable as it has internals designed for higher gas pressures.
LiPo batteries have 2 leads and connector plugs. One is the power plug the other is the balancing plug,
The power plug can be either a small or large Tamiya type (white) or a Deans (red) . Most airsoft guns come fitted with a tamiya plug size depends on battery size. Converters are available from most radio controlled model stores, or online.
The very small white plug on a Lipo is to balance charge the battery from a Lipo charger.
try HobbyKing or HobbyPartz
Did you refit the hop up barrel spacer back in? brass ring that centers the barrel in the hop up unit.
In addition a couple of O-rings between the inner and outer barrel or tape could also help.
look on the top of the mag - if the BB feed riser is marked on the rear then it is catching on the magwell top - Doctor Airsoft had a similar problem with the F2000 and trimmed the mag at this point - see vid below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=murNRHKBF1Y
Piston , piston head/cylinder - silicon grease
Any other plastic or rubber item - silicon grease
Metal to metal gears and metal bushings ONLY - white lithium sparingly
Batteries free with low end guns are not good but should last more than a few shots. Mine did. Battery chargers with guns are also pretty bad so can not be relied on to charge properly. Either your battery has been damaged by the charger or has not been charged properly. If the gun shoots at all it is likely to be battery rather than wiring. I suggest:
Get a smart charger and charge the battery properly, you will need the charger anyway.
try the gun with that or someone elses battery.
The handguard on the SIGs is quite slim and needs a stick type battery
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/batteries-chargers/8-4v/intellect-8-4v-1600-mah-stick-battery.html
You cannot describe it but here is a great video from Oddys Airsoft in Ireland they have a series on gearbox work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q421knTJGcw
The gun is fitted with a small Tamiya connector but has loads of space to fit a large type battery so almost any 9.6v battery CNCMan did a review on this
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/batteries-chargers/9-6v/tenergy-9-6v-1600mah-nun-chuck-battery.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7QjxGR6RaMA&feature=fvsr
NO
Your question is too open
It depends on the gun, the battery connector, the battery connector, the battery voltage.
Be more specific ask a meaningful question
Having reread your question there is a power plug and a balancing plug.
The power plug can be of several types . Small Tamiya , Large Tamiya, Deans, or XT60. Guns usually come with Tamiyas but Deans and XT60 are lower resistance and often fitted as an upgrade.
The balancing plug is used to check on all the cells when charging and shooting to ensure they all stay within correct voltage and prevent damage.
You need a special charger for this, either trickle or fast and a plug in low voltage alarm.
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Most guns will be OK with a 7.4v lipo with no downside
If you want to use a 11.1 v lipo then upgrades to the gears , sector clip and bearings on the spring guide.
Why upgrade? The new DBoysfull metals are decent guns, and dont need a gearbox upgrade for skirmishing. Use it first until you find something you think needs upgrading.
If upgrading then look at the videos on Youtube for detaill advice.
Bearings are fine at these stress levels - it is only for extreme upgrades say 150 plus that there may be a question about smaller bearings.
For bushings the size is pretty unimportant as the bearing surface is the inside face interface with the gear axle, which does not change with bigger bushings.
For bearings the bigger the better as the bearing surface does increase with size.