About: I am a budding airsoft player attempting to change several things in this game.
1. Treating airsoft guns like real firearms.
a. Most airsofters want respect from the public; the only way to do so is to treat our game far more seriously, to start treating our guns like real steel firearms.
b. It's a general safety thing
c. Not treating fake guns like real guns lowers your respect for real firearms. Point them at things you only intend on shooting.
2. Tactics
a. Everyone is so darn concerned with 'milsim' and yet, no one ever practices real team tactics, rather going for a 'solo-out-for-myself' sort of thing that is common in video games. The best milsim people don't always wear the real gear, they practice the practice
b. I hope to promote my tactics series on an upcoming Youtube series that is in the production phase.
Other than that, thanks for checking out my account. I hope to see you round!
**armor**
Fellow Airsofter
Can you re-edit your question to provide more clarification? My questions are
1. Is your gun actually firing on semi and automatic? Or is it that it clicks on semi and fires on auto? Is it a background noise behind the action of the gearbox?
2. Did you personally change the internals, or did someone else do it for you? Did you have it done by a technician, or a friend?
Could it be that your tappet plate spring is worn out? Is the spring even in there? It really sounds like a tappet plate issue.
Could it also be that your modification with the hop up from two to one piece has changed how the BBs feed into the chamber or how the air nozzle mates with the hop chamber? Keep up the work, and I hope this helps.
Actually, I've been totally won over by .23gram BBs .20s are just too darn light, .25s don't have enough, 'zip,' but .23s have got the best of both worlds. You might want to try all three, just to get an idea. Plus, it all depends on what your muzzle energy is.
I have personally ordered from them. Their shipping, though free, is awful (since it has to come from mainland China, go through their customs, our customs, etc), but their prices are reasonable. Yes, they are a reputable airsoft dealer.
You don't. Pistols, in both airsoft and reality, have a lot of wobble between the barrel (outer barrel, not inner) and the slide. Which is why pistols are not entirely accurate past a certain distance. Target pistols, a specific type of pistol, have no moving parts relative to the barrel, and only the action moves. An example is the Mark I, popularized by Ruger, or the Browning Buckmark. If you attempt to modify the barrel so that it does, you'll end up interfering with the auto loading of each BB.
If there is wobble from the inner barrel inside the outer barrel, you could fix it by barber-poling it with teflon tape. There shouldn't be any adverse effects since the inner barrel shouldn't move separate from the outer barrel.
Well, you can look through tactical shotgunning magazines around at your local bookstore, that'll give you some ideas. But as for adding optics, flashlights, and lasers, as I understand it, those accessories are either mounted to the barrel of the shotgun (more common) or rail mounted (less common, due to the design). As for rails, either you'll have to find a real-steel accessory to mod from, or you're out of luck; I haven't seen an airsoft specific shotgun accessory at all.
Shell holders are rather common. You can pick one up that holds at least five shells on the stock for around five or six bucks.
Optics... if you go the UTG tri-shot, then optics are going to be more difficult unless you somehow weld a rail to the top of your shotgun, or perhaps figure out a way to cut dovetails into your receiver, (unlikely as well)
If you're looking for a 'door-breaching' look, most of the time LE/military don't bother 'customizing' their door breacher because a ballistic door breacher isn't used as a weapon. When a team breaches a room with a shotgun, the breacher is given a shotgun, with special rounds that basically vaporize when they hit the other side of the door, so they don't risk harming someone on the other side. When the door receives it's share of rounds, the breacher kicks the door in, and his teammates race inside the fatal funnel. The breacher then pulls out his primary, and enters.
Dry firing your AEG can be hazardous, as crazyNCman stated. But a tech taught me a trick to get around that. Insure you're not firing any BBs, that there aren't any in the chamber, and wrap your hand around the end of of your barrel so the air pressure inside the barrel is released slower than if you didn't have your hand there.
Otherwise, you risk cracking your front end of your gearbox. The 2GX gearbox design comes reinforced, but you shouldn't put undue stress on the box in the first place, right?
Hope this helps, and don't forget the best answer!
Almost all AEGs do that, because of the way the trigger contacts are set up in the gearbox. What you're doing is only putting enough electricity through the motor to turn it partially, so you don't pull your piston back quite far enough to be released from the sector gear's teeth. It puts a lot of undue stress on your piston teeth, if left for a while, (as I understand it).
If you get yourself one of those newfangled Raptor MOSFET's from AWS, you'll get Systema PTW performance out of your gearbox almost instantly. It's a mechanical trigger switch, rather than an electrical one; it also precompresses your spring with each shot, meaning when you pull the trigger, you instantly get a shot off, if I remember correctly.
A high torque motor will do the trick too, but your rate of fire will drop considerably.
And while the hair trigger mod is a good idea, it's rather difficult to do, if you're not comfortable doing custom work. I'd say avoid that option, for now, and stick with a high torque motor and an AWS Raptor fet. Should do everything you're looking for with little work done, other than installing the FET and motor.
Don't forget the best answer. And good luck too.
You're winding it all the way, until you hear a double click right? Just gotta get the basics out of the way before I go all technical, now...
There's a good chance that the winding spring is stretched out, probably because you left it wound too long, so it's lost it's spring. You'll have to either open up the mag, re-stretch the spring (unlikely if you're unsure of how to do that), or get a new mag.
CYMA makes great starter AEGs. Just don't push the internals too hard, and they'll last a while. Having a tech re-shim/re-lube the internals will also help keep it running in tip-top shape.
Typically, anything over 150 bucks is going to be skirmishable, so long as you aren't pushing the internals too hard with a high discharge or high voltage battery. A 9.6v NiMH battery would do fine, or a 7.4v LiPo battery would be good, but nothing more than that without upgrading your gearbox internals.
As well, it might be handy to take the gun to a nearby technician and have him reshim and relube the gearbox, as most stock shim/.lube jobs are either under or overdone. This will greatly increase the longevity of your AEG, again, so long as you aren't pushing the internals to the maximum.
Quality BBs are another important aspect. Don't use poor quality, sporting goods BBs, and purchase quality BBs from reputable dealers.
Finally, insure that your son CLEANS his replica before AND after use. Dust, dirt, and debris can collect in the barrel while in storage, during usage, and after usage, so it's always important to get the nasties out so BBs don't jam (which can cause pistons/gears to strip, hop rubbers to prematurely wear out, and magazines to break down the road)
Hope this answers your question! Don't forget the best answer, and as always, good luck, stay safe, and have fun!
There isn't really much difference. I think they are both the same gun, but I cannot be sure.
I own a UTG, and it's a solid shooting CQC weapon. It definitely takes some serious skill to sneak up on an AEG-wielding airsofter and tag him; you've only got one chance to do it right.
Hope this helps, and don't forget the best answer.
The two local groups I play at do allow them, but they are discouraged simply because it ain't cool to drop a full auto burst into some poor dude's (or dude-ette's) face. If you do have to hit the head, switch to semi-auto. It's a courtesy thing. And you're right, they do hurt. I got lit up all over once by a guy at a mere 30 feet away. Took two to the lips and one to the forehead. Swelled up and couldn't talk right for a couple days.
I hate to say this, but I think you're screwed. The A&K Masada is an oddity, because it doesn't corrolate with any other airsoft parts on the market, including the PTS Masada. PTS Masada parts won't work with the A&K because the A&K was designed from pictures, instead of actual schematics.
I own one, and most everything for the A&K is proprietary.
You might try Spartan Imports; I've heard they keep extra parts of all guns they import and distribute.
It could be your hop up, but it also could be an air seal issue.
Might want to check both of the above. Is your battery completely charged when you went out the second time?
If you re-edit your question and elaborated on it more, such as weird noises, odd patterns, etc, you might be able to have your question answered better. I'm just taking a couple shots in the dark, here.
www.ebairsoft.com
It's all fake multicam, knock off cloned stuff, but multicam nevertheless. the real stuff is expensive because it's real, because it's meant to withstand military grade abuse, and meant to be utilized to the fullest extent possible.
If you don't want to blow a lot of money, then don't buy cheap. 30-40 bucks is going to get you junk, and I don't say that with a superior air. I say it because I've bought cheap junk in that price range, and it just plain stinks.
I would suggest saving your money a bit more, and purchasing a UTG Tri-Shot shotgun. They are very effective (having just picked one up myself) and are competitive in the CQC department.
Crosman is a very low-end brand; don't expect quality from them. Almost anything you get from Walmart or other sporting goods stores are going to be junk.
Hope this helps
It's your battery; have you charged it recently? Not that I'm inferring you're an idiot, I've just gotta be sure that all the basis are covered.
If you've charged your battery, and you're positive you're doing everything right, then you probably should replace the battery. You probably could upgrade to a 9.6v LiPo, if you wanted to. If not, then you could upgrade to a 9.6v NiMH.
You'll probably be fine, considering that the same amount of force is going to be exerted on the internals of the prop with a BB or without a BB. However, it's still a good idea to care for the prop just as much as if you were using it in reality.
As I understand it, HFC gas would put less stress on the internals, but wouldn't produce such a nearly snappy recoil as you might want in a prop that uses propane.
It seems you think that the gun makes the player, a common misconception. The gun that the player wields never, ever, ever, makes the skill of the player any better. What it does change is capacity for potential excellence. I've seen folks use spring shotguns to own people with AEGs, and I've seen people use gas pistols to outmaneuver gentlemen with sniper rifles all because of superior tactics.
As well, strategy is a poor term for gameplay. Tactics is a better term to use, simply because strategy involves overarching goals, such as to capture the flag and return it to base, while tactics involves how it is to be done, such as bounding, flanking, etc.
http://www.theairsoftsoldier.com/index.php?topic=6193.0 This is one of my guides on some basic mentalities and tactics that you may use on an opposing force. I've been told it's an extraordinarily good basic primer.
Finally, tactics is a mindset, not a skill set. If you can think on your feet, think of other possible ways of accomplishing your strategy, you can successfully use tactics. Otherwise, no tactic in the book will save you.
At 150 feet, it's all guesswork for any airsoft gun. Sure, precision barrels help, but you will never have true real steel accuracy in an airsoft gun.
I had my DMR upgraded to fire 400 FPS, tightbore barrel, internal job, etc, and I'm reaching out to 230 feet, with some accuracy, but still not able to place three consistant shots in a six inch plate at that range.
With the combat machine, sure, you can hit 150 feet, but you aren't going to hit jack diddly squat with any consistancy.
It's still a great buy, though. A TBB would greatly improve the accuracy, but if you want consistancy, you need a solid hop up system. Don't forget the best answer.
Look, if you want to upgrade the ROF and not worry about the internals, then I would suggest that you do it right;
1. Upgrade the gears, bushings, shimming, and piston. Redo the gearbox to start taking some punishment.
2. Upgrade the motor
3. Then start to consider a battery.
If you upgrade only one or two things, you are going to still have problems, because a higher voltage battery is going to put wear and tear on everything, not just the motor or the gears.
And you have to remember that a 10.8v NiMH has about the same rate of fire as an 11.1v LiPo battery, so you are going to put the same ROF through it.
Don't forget the best answer!
Probably going to get a maximum effective engagement range of 150 feet, maybe 200 if you add a tightbore barrel and are using precision BBs.
The SOCOM variant of the gun probably has the same effective engagement distance. Basically, they are the same gun, same internals, and a slightly longer barrels.
There are two different kinds of hop up bucking rubber types. Soft, and hard. You probably picked up the hard bucking, which is for high FPS applications. A soft rubber bucking will most likely fix that.
Don't forget the best answer!
The sad truth is, unless you're buying a real steel scope, there is no such thing as an 'expensive' scope for airsoft. Leupold, which is arguably one of the best producers of rifle scopes for the commercial market, produces scopes that, for serious hunters, range around 500+ dollar range. If you want a great scope, you pay through the nose for the accuracy.
In terms of airsoft, manufacturers cut corners on internal quality in order to give the airsofter something they think will be great. Honestly, anything under 100 bucks is cheap, suffers from parallax, or does not stay sighted in. They break prematurely, use poor end construction, or wear out after continued use.
If you shell out some bucks, you will end up getting something nice in terms of a scope, but honestly, it's somewhat pointless. I have a 3.5-10x40mm power scope on my DMR, and I don't think there has ever been a point in the entire lifetime of the rifle that I've actually scoped in past 5 power for accuracy. It cost me about 90 bucks, it's illuminated, and though it's a nice piece, it suffers from parallax, a condition where the rounding of the magnifying lens causes the picture to distort around the edges.
Now, in terms of if a BB shatters the lens... it depends on how close the lens is hit, how hard it's been hit, what the weight of the BB was, etc. I've had BBs glance off the lens before, never had problems, never seen one crack, etc. I tend to believe that it's a rare occurrence when a BB cracks a lens, and people get 'knowledgeable' and say 'oh yeah, I've seen it happen!' when in reality, it happens but rarely in comparison to how many times you yourself get hit by a BB.
It's still something to protect against, though. I would suggest a RIS mounted plexiglass shield (they do sell them). They look silly, but they do the job well.
Don't forget the best answer!
Yeah, it is! Considering P90 magazines are more expensive than M4 mags, the fact that it comes with the extended buttpad, and the two double P90 mag pouches, this is a great deal!
When you fill the mag, listen for the hissing noise. It will decrescendo down to no noise. That is the indicator that no more gas is filling into the magazine.
OD and Coyote go great with it. I've got a set of ATACs for personal use (they rock, BTW), and either will do well, but check out Tactical Assault Gear DOT com, they've got ATACs gear in stock (but it's downright expensive! A chest rig in ATACs is about 110 bucks, for the cheapest one!)
You can edit your question if you forgot something, and if you are unsure if someone gave a correct answer, wait a few days, and watch the 'thumbs' on the answer posts. More correct answers typically float to the top.
The hop system, tightbore barrel, and a consistent gearbox. As well a good BB mass-to-FPS match will also allow your hop to spin the BB optimally for increased momentum and less jiggle on the flight path.
Compared to what? Their AEGs are skirmishable out of the box, and are a great bargain for the price. However, once you start playing with higher end AEGs, you rapidly find out how inadequete they are.
In short, can they compete with expensive AEGs? Yes, but don't expect perfection.
Pick something you like. Although I can understand why you are stuck on the Masada and the G36. They have quite a few similarities.
I own an A&K, and, though I love it to death, I know that it's a finnicky gun. The stock hop up is garbage, attaching a sling out of the box is impossible, and the selector switch is a finnicky design. However, despite all of these flaws, it's still a fine AEG. With some work, it can be a freaking sweet gun. But that's a lot of work to overcome a problem that, for the price I paid for it, should not have existed.
I would suggest the G36, since its a KWA (excellent, reputable, and battle proven company) and the ergonomics are quite similar to the Masada.
I think its okay to order from, as long as it's small stuff and not a gun. All my gun ordering experiences with them hsve been terrible, while when I order other stuff from them, its not so bad.
Scroll down to 'ScaredShooter' 's post on this thread. In it he states it's nigh on impossible.
http://airsoftpacific.com/viewtopic.php?t=36424
Sorry dude.
Buy what suits your environment. Camouflage doesn't work unless you aren't moving, and ACUPAT is a terrible pattern. I would suggest good ol' woodland; it's versatile, works day or night.
If you have the bucks, and you want the competitive edge, I would buy both, and wear one to either scenario; either urban or wooded.
But avoid the ACUPAT; it sticks out like a sore thumb; I would recommend a real urban digital pattern (dark grey, light grey, light black) or possibly desert MARPAT, depending on where you play. But don't take my word for it; match your camo colors to your environment.
Honestly, mag pouches are mag pouches, and the options you have are the same idea.
I'm not a fan of velcro (it's really noisy if you have to reload) and the button types are obnoxious to deal with, so I would suggest the elastic band type.
Although gunnerman's suggestion is correct, my safariland holster doesn't have rubber inserts, and that thing twists around my leg constantly.
I solved the problem by applying some Velcro to the back of the holster and to the side of my pants, so it mounts completely secure and fast.
I can't say anything about G&P, since I've never handled one, but I can say this about KWA. When compared side by side with a real AR-15 platform, I had a hard time guessing which one was the real one.
Our local proshop, Precision Airsoft, makes nearly half of it's sales to law enforcement training. Nearly all of those sales are KWA.
You probably are going to want some kind of sling, (even the lightest guns get obnoxiously heavy after several hours of field gaming, plus, do you want to loose control of your replica over a brick wall?) a vest wouldn't hurt (so you can carry more gear), and a set of tactical boots is going to save your feet.
Nice eyepro wouldn't hurt, and a better charger?
In terms of range, a REALLY good hop up unit, like Tokyo Marui's, can and will get you better range. High FPS reduces time to target. Think of it this way.
A good hop up unit increases distance, how far you can travel, and FPS reduces travel time to target. If you examine TM when they shoot, their BBs float out forever, while a cheaper China replica zips out there. It would seem that the china replicas like JG, Dboys, A&K have more range, when in reality their BBs simply get there faster.
FPS is important because it leaves your target less time to react and dodge the BBs at range. Hop up is important because it will depend on how consistent your BBs travel in the same pattern. TM will consistently fly in a predictable pattern, while most cheaper AEGs will fly in an unpredictable, wide pattern past 150 feet.
Make sense? Don't forget to select the best answer!
NCman is right, dude.
It's not elitist to know that you get what you pay for, and certainly not so to say a particular gun is garbage, if it is.
Don't be upset that one particular gun is garbage or not. If the experts agree that it's junk, it would be wise to trust what they say. Dissenting without personal experience otherwise is just as elitist as you say others are.
Look, I'm not trying to down on you, I'm only trying to help you understand.
This has got to be one of the top 10 questions we get here, on the website. I would recommend using the search feature, and following tylerflow's advice.
Well, I understand that it's difficult to find great quality products, but crazyNCman is right, it's difficult to sell high end guns online.
Check out www.precisionairsoft.com. I know they have great stuff in the store, so if you call them about a product that isn't on their online store,they might just have it in stock.
Colored glow sticks work best, aka Chem-lights.
As for injury, I would suggest that you have an FPS limit of 330, simply because when it's lower light, it's way too easy to creep up on people and get way too close for comfort. Most night fights that I've been in have engagements within 75 feet, and more within 50 feet. No sniper rifles, definitely, otherwise there will be some injuries.
Don't forget the best answer.
Don't search for 'Weaver Rails'. Search for 'Picatinny Rails', as those are the standard 20mm rail that you will find the most parts for.
Almost any major airsoft retailer will have an AK47 RIS mount that you can buy.
As well, it's a cheaper AK variant, so there may be absolutely NO rails available.
During the rain, I've had few problems with GBBs. If you keep the internals reasonably dry, then it should perform fine; don't let rainwater go up your barrel, otherwise you will loose a great deal of accuracy.
Submerged underwater? Where are you playing? I honestly don't trust any airsoft gun after it's been underwater, GBB or no. I have yet to see an airsoft replica survive full submersion.
Depends on who is swapping out the spring. You could be charged as little as 20 bucks, but then again, you could see prices soar above 50 bucks. There is no standard price.
Mess. I owned one, and it sucks after three skirmishes. At only 150 FPS, you ain't gonna have the firepower to range out past 90 feet, which is rediculous in terms of a CQC gun.
And that battery isnt a 9.6v, it's a 7.2v; which is why your ROF sucks.
I would say that you should check for air leaks along the air nozzle, hop up, piston head and cylinder; any serious drop in FPS without a spring change probably indicates an air leak.
Unless you kept the spring compressed for a great deal of time. If that happened, then that might have caused your spring to soften up, and not push nearly as hard.
Don't forget the best answer!
Depends on how you use it. I use a pistol maybe once or twice a game, but then again I play in the field, while in CQC it would probably see more action.
I guess it's one of those things that I would rather have and not use, instead of needing and not having.
Well, if you want to be cheap, you should get high speed gears, a metal toothed piston, reinforced bushings, and a high speed motor. But that's being cheap. And being cheap will break parts eventually.
I just got it, and, though it has a ghosting issue, it's a decent sight.
I got it off ebairsoft.com, and, if you are patient, you save 30 bucks, but it takes like a month to get to you.
Yeah, you probably could. Those half masks are great for keeping the BBs off your face; just be sure that your facemask doesn't interfere with keeping your eyepro over your eyes. Anyone can afford to lose a tooth, but nobody can afford to loose an eye.
It depends on the battery connectors. If it is a mini-tamiya connector, which is an accepted standard in the airsoft community, then I would recommend any smart charger, since smart chargers have a trickle charge function and will allow you to charge the battery without killing the cells after too long on charge.
Here's what a mini-tamiya connector looks like.
http://www.batteryspace.com/ProductImages/connectors/TamiyaMa.JPG
Here is a link to the Tenergy Smart Charger
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_74&products_id=1224&osCsid=2ocdjddmfbg3rs1rsh5b54ac47
If it has a proprietary connection, then you would need to buy it from Crosman directly, if you even can. I would give their customer service a call, and ask them if you can purchase the battery packs and chargers separately.
I'm assuming you have a younger set of boys, and I say this out of caution, but airsoft guns can be dangerous, even the lower powered ones like the Crosman R70. Make sure they have proper eye protection before they go shooting, and please, please, please, let them know that they can hurt themselves with it. And, please insure that they don't wind up outside where law enforcement could mistake it for a deadly weapon. There's this huge debacle now in California where an LEO shot and wounded a 13 year old because the kid refused to drop what appeared to be a deadly weapon. Now California is trying to ban airsoft, which we don't want. Especially when the vast majority of airsofters DO follow regulations and laws.
Thanks for posting, and I hope your boys play safe and have a good time!
**armor**
A spacer is a nub, a nub is a spacer, and a bucking is the rubber sleeve the slips over the barrel and the thing that actually makes contact with the BB.
How, a concave spacer is a good thing, but you must have a concave bucking, or one that splits in the middle; otherwise you are simply applying force over the top of the bucking, rather than on the sides, where you want it. As well, your bucking must be perfectly centered over the feed well, at the 12 o'clock position; otherwise you are getting hop to the left or to the right.
Hope this helps, and don't forget to select the best answer.
Probably, and it all depends on how many cells are in the battery, but you couldn't adjust the stock at all, which defeats the purpose of an adjustable, multi-position stock. And it would be a complete pain to hook up.
All in all, a nunchuck style would be a better style to have inside the buffer tube.
Who'd you hear that from? I'm an "expert", and I don't get a monthly paycheck.
Top expert simply means that you've answered a lot of questions, and had a lot of people like them.
No; the SCAR-H in real life fires a 7.62mm round, while the SCAR-L fires a 5.56mm round. The mag wells are of a different shape to accommodate a larger round.
Wait, you bought a throat mic before the radio? Isn't that like putting the cart before the horse?
It depends on how many pins your throat mic has, and how many female pin ports your radio has. If you have one, 1/8th size pin, then you can use radios with one, 1/8th size pin port.
Don't forget the best answer.
Its good that you asked before you did, but it's not a good idea to do that. Airsoft guns are too often mistaken for real firearms, and that brings law enforcement into the picture. Theres a huge situation right now going on in California where a police officer shot and wounded a 13 year old because he wouldn't drop his airsoft gun.
I would highly advise going to www.spokaneairsoft.com as they have games on a monthly basis, and it's a good outlet for airsofters. OR theres Tacoma Tactical, on the west side of WA.
Hope this helps. Please be careful NOT to display your airsoft replica in public. It just screws over the responsible members of the community.
Mind your folks.
Do you pay for the rental, or do your parents? If you pay for the rental, and your parents won't let you get an AEG, you might want to try to show them how responsible and mature you are. Don't tell them, but show them by example over the next few months.
If your parents pay for the rental, then tell them that, after so many games, it becomes worth it to own your own gun, because after 10 games, you've already paid for an airsoft gun that you wouldn't ordinarily have to pay for. In the long run, it's cheaper to own your own gun.
Where do you get your money? Is it allowance money? If so, then it's still sort of your parents' bucks. If you do extra around the house, that can really show your folks that you really want that gun. You have to do more then the average to show your folks that you are responsible and mature enough to own an airsoft gun.
Please don't take this as an insult, but as an older airsofter, I don't know very many airsofters mature enough to handle the severe responsibility of an airsoft replica. These guns aren't toys, and cannot be treated as such. Perhaps your parents see that you aren't mature enough to handle potentially severely wounding someone. What were to happen if you went to a game, say an informal skirmish game, and you accidentally put someone's eye out? Who would be ultimately responsible? Your parents would have to be paying the hospital bill should that guy you injured got angry about it. That's worth the expense of several hundred airsoft guns right there.
If your parents don't realize it's worth the money, then show them the math. Show them that you aren't just a once a month player, but a once a week player. That will make it worth the money.
Hope this helps, and don't forget the best answer.
Quite possibly. If the wire was touching another metal piece inside the gun, it could be shorting out the battery, and that would cause your battery to get real hot. You probably should replace that wire (or, at the very least, wrap electrical tape around it) and replace the battery.
Those firework grenades are decent, but they stink like a skunk and don't put out a lot.You can make your own high output smoke grenades with potassium nitrate, sugar, water, baking soda, and powder dye. Look for recipes on Youtube.
And, if you do decide to make this, be VERY sure to keep an eye on it, as they are pyrotechnics and can start a fire. And also be sure to include the dye, so your neighbors don't get confused and call the fire department
don't forget to select the best answer!
Typically, longer barrels insure more accuracy retained over distance. And you're right, there is an optimum pressure to barrel length, but that's figured out with the volume of the cylinder.
Take the cylinder inside the piston, measure the volume (using you're basic math skills) then measure the volume of the barrel, and you will be able to find the maximum effective barrel length of your replica. And if your cylinder is ported, then you have to measure the volume from the end point of the air port, since that is where air starts compressing.
And as for your side note, why wouldn't a gas pistol have a higher FPS than an AEG? There is more power behind a gas blowback than there is AEG. The difference is that the barrel length is noticeably longer, and therefore allows for that air to expand behind the BB.
You're on the right track, and honestly, in terms of best accuracy, it all comes down to having a good barrel length to cylinder volume match.
I've had experience with the KWC and the Sig, and honestly, neither is going to outperform the other. They are about the same in quality, so I would get the one that fits your hand the best.
Since this is a professional airsofting website, and I'm not an elitist, I'm going to be polite and tell you that the guns you are looking at aren't skirmish worthy. I mean, for backyard shooting they'll be fine, but anything more and you're gonna be embarrassed to be even seen with it, unless you really use it well.
And, in my professional opinion, save your bucks for a nice replica. I know it doesn't seem like it now, but if you save your bucks and buy a $100+ gas blowback, you will not be disappointed.
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
A 7.4 LiPo won't kill your gun, and the high discharge rate of the battery will help your gun pull that spring. Plus it will save space in that tight battery space.
*sigh*
This passed in the Senate, not in the House. And then it has to be signed into law by the governor. This is the reason bills like this get passed; people don't know how their own government works!
If you want to avoid California dealers, AirsoftOutletNW is a great site located in Portland, OR, PrecisionAirsoft.com in Spokane, WA, and MilspecAirsoft.com in North Carolina
If your gearbox is locked up, you can either try firing it in auto, to un-trip the anti-reversal latch, OR you would have to pull the motor out and trip the anti-reversal latch manually.
Look up "Gearbox lock up fix airsoft" on google; that might help you find a how-to guide, and check Mechbox.com
Don't forget to select the best answer.
Desert Eagle? Why on earth would you want a Deagle?
I've heard decent reports about it, but that's a lot more gun than the pictures lead on to believe. Unless he's going for an Israeli loadout, the gun is so impractical to use because of it's sheer size. Even in real life.
If he wants a big gun, try a USP Match version by KWA (I think, don't quote me on that).
Sorry to tell you this, bud, but you can't force your friends to be more 'milsim.' I've got teammates who play the exact same way, and, persuasive as I may be, I have no more sway on their actions than another might.
If you want to keep your team together, then you are going to have to accept them as they are; no one wants to listen to someone rail against them while they are trying to have fun. If you simply accept them as they are, and attempt to direct them with suggestions instead of direct commands, it will floor you how quickly they will fall into line.
The definition of leadership is "Leadership is the art of influencing others to cooperate toward a common goal." If you are trying the same tactic over and over again, you're gonna do absolutely nothing other than annoy the heck out of your friends, and thereby hinder your efforts to win the game.
And honestly, the best team I have ever seen has got to be Team Boot at my local field. I can't say they are the most tactically sound, and I can't say that they are the best players, but goodness, they know how to play! During Operation Iraqi Freedom, they played Iraqi Insurgents, and were the best insurgents ever, including the vuvuzila. They've officially earned my respect and admiration.
Don't be so direct. Talk to your team like you know what you're talking about. Use "Could you...Would you...Can you..." These are just as powerful as a direct imperative. And don't be pissed off if they don't do what you say.
To be an effective team captain, you have to listen to everyone, including the guy who has no clue what he's talking about. In fact, you especially need to listen to the guy who has no clue what he's talking about. When you are inclusive, rather than exclusive, people are drawn to your leadership 'aura.' They subconciously realize that you listen, that you care, and that will inspire your team to greater heights than ever before.
I have plenty of experience with this. I've led countless people in squad based tactics, many times over. Not to toot my own horn, but I know what I'm talking about. Take my advice, and you will become a better, more effective leader.
Finally, don't be a boss. Bosses drive, Leaders Inspire. Leaders are what you want to be. Leaders are the kind of people that get his followers to think of all the ideas, and then implement them. He makes them feel like they are a member of the team.
And, if your friends have no desire to do any of this, and you cannot, in any way shape or form convince them otherwise, they are not your friends on the field.
Don't forget to select the best answer!
See my other answer for leadership tactics.
The better question is, do YOU have an awesome gun? If you don't, and don't employ it against them in the backyard skirmish, then there is no way they are going to spend more bucks on nice stuff.
I was in your same shoes for the longest time. What I did was simple.
I said "You seven, your cheap springers, vs me and my AEG." It was a demolition derby. And after that, five ended up buying nice guns.
And you also have to remember that, at this point, your friends may want other things in life. You can't force them to do what you want. If they really love airsoft, maybe they are content to be where they are.
Have you suggested that you go to an organized game? That will convince them of the error of their ways faster than any other method. Essentially, if your friends really love airsoft, then, after seeing what they could have, they may be more willing to spend bucks.
But objects don't bring happiness. Experience does. Maybe your friends just want to hang out and shoot fake guns at each other. That's totally fine, and acceptable (so long as you are doing it safely).
Don't forget to select the best answer!
If you raise your hop up, it drops the FPS. I don't recommend doing so, since it's kinda a form of cheating the chronograph.
The other way is to intentionally compress your spring; half-fire your replica, and you'll compress the spring. It's not good on the gearbox, but, depending on how long you leave it, you could compress the spring upwards of 10-80 FPS. When you compress it, check it every hour or so with a chronograph so you can find out how many FPS it drops.
That someone is referring to a phenomena known as barrel suck, where the piston cycles back before the BB can make it out of the gun, and you suddenly create a vacuum inside the barrel, behind the BB. You'll lose a lot of FPS because of it.
In order to fix this, you need to change the cylinder out to a hole-less cylinder. That way, when the piston cycles forward, you have more air behind the BB.
There aren't any electric variants of the MP9, only the gas system by KSC/KWA.
However, there is an electric MP7 by Well, and I've heard fair things about it. It's no primary, and strictly for CQC, but will perform decently under duress. And their about $100-ish. Not knowing the exchange rate, but knowing you normally will get fewer euro for dollar, you probably are looking at 80 euro? Don't quote me on that, though.
Don't forget to select the best answer!
The EGLM will work on any M4, simply because the M4 and the SCAR fire the exact same real steel round, the 5.56mm. The SCAR-H variant of the EGLM won't work, but your should be fine with the SCAR-L variant.
As clayyalc said, you might have to get the right size rail for it, too.
Your chest rig will do you fine; a black T-shirt, polo, or other simple top, (long sleeve works too), followed by khaki cargo pants with all your tactical gear is a PMC loadout.
Add a tactical ball cap, longish beard, and you look like Dusty from Medal of Honor...
I really don't like the Tavor, simply because it's a right handed only gun, and the F2000 is ambidextrous friendly; so if you want to shoot around corners more effectively, get the F2000.
Plus the F2000 made by G&G, IMHO, is more ergonomic. After holding both, playing with both, I dislike the Tavor.
But these answers are all opinion; my best advice is to go to a local proshop and hold both of them, and make your choice. Pick the gun that fits your preference the most.
I honestly don't know what to say; it might be a sticky selector plate, but I don't think that would explain the trigger...
I would consult mechbox.com for tips. Hope this helps!
**armor**
tylerflow, I don't think it's deans, especially on a LPEG.
http://www.eflightwiki.com/eflightwiki/index.php?title=LiPo_Balance_Plugs&oldid=5700
Don't forget to select the best answer!
While AirsoftGeek is right, I am going to offer a different point of view on the subject. Yes, G&G makes excellent internals and is Marui compatible, but honestly, if it were a flat out slugfest between the two in internal quality, it would be hard to beat the KWA 2GX gearbox. Essentially, its a pre-reinforced gearbox, stock. All the right places have been reinforced, making it the most reliable V2 style gearbox on the market.
If you are looking for better than bang for buck performance, go with G&G; if you want top notch performance right out of the box and you don't plan on upgrading, the KWA is a far better choice. Though my biggest guff with KWA is that they don't have a large variety of real steel variants, just pretty much M4s, a few pistol choices, and the AK lineup that they will be producing soon, (oh, and the G36 lineup), while G&G has more product lines to choose from.
Rounds per Minute and Feet Per Second have very little to do with each other in the mechbox. One deals with how much torque the motor pulls, and the other deals with how quickly the motor turns. If your mechbox and wiring can handle the extra voltage, then simply upgrading the battery to a higher voltage will do the trick, but, the more voltage you add on, the higher chance you strip a piston. A 9.6 volt battery should get you over 10 rounds per second easy, which is more than 600 RPM. I wouldn't go any higher than a 9.6v battery, too. 10.8v batteries (the step after a 9.6) have the equivalent discharge of an 11.1v LiPo.
Sounds like a trigger contact issue. You probably will want to take it to a local tech in your area, since it's so difficult to diagnose these things on the internet.
You might try posting a Youtube video of your problem, then re-posting your question here with the link. It'll help diagnose the problem and possibly come up with a solution.
The G&G Extreme .45 isn't for CQC combat, since the BBs punch so dadgum hard; you want something with lower FPS, a bit less punch, but enough to get the BBs where they need to go. The Matrix is probably going to be the better choice.
Unless you are target shooting, and then the extreme .45 isn't such a bad choice.
There is no limit for unregulated airsoft, so as long as everyone has eye protection that is ANSI rated Z87.1 or higher, than you can go as high as you want. Though typically, when you backyard skirmish, you typically want no more than 400 FPS for automatics, 450 FPS for support weapons (SAWs, MG36s, and RPK type weapons), and 600 FPS for sniper rifles. Those are the regs that my group goes by, and we play by Spokane Airsoft regulations, though we hold to that loosely.
If you backyard airsoft at all, insure that you have proper safety equipment; eye protection that is ANSI rated and a trigger finger that is kept well outside of the trigger guard while not firing. Treat your replicas like real firearms and you will be less likely to deal with severe injury.
Airsoft isn't like paintball in that it doesn't have the same rules for each game. It depends on your local field; contact them for rules or check their web page, if they have one.
To be honest, if you are looking to launch 'rockets' I would check out the Metadyne Havok, which is a paintball launcher, but fires Nerf Rockets. A gentleman at our last game used the Metadyne launcher and took out vehicle after vehicle, time after time.
*chuckle* Righteous Cowboy FTW
If your team is an amalgamation of all troops across the world, go with something like "World Protectorate Forces" or "International Security Forces". It gives it a Private Military Contractor sort of ring.
OR you could go with something that sounds SO call-of-duty-ish that it's stupidly silly.
If properly installed, a tightbore barrel will increase the accuracy of your groupings at your current range, up your FPS by about 5 or 6 feet per second, and generally, allow you to be more accurate.
TBBs come in several accepted categories; 6.04mm, 6.03mm, and 6.01mm. I've only seen 6.02mm rarely. .01mm barrels have the lowest tolerances of tightbores, and must be cleaned after every game. .03mm and .04mm have higher tolerances, but it's still highly advisable to clean the barrel after every game.
Not to mention that high grade, superior polish BBs MUST be used to obtain the accuracy of a tightbore, otherwise, you might as well be throwing rocks. Don't forget to select the best answer!
No; LiPo battery cells have to be balanced in voltage and electricity, and that charger doesn't do that. The charger will most often say it's a Lithium Polymer capable charger.
LiPo chargers tend to be more expensive; if you are looking for something with the same amount of power, check out the 10.8v NiMH. Simpler to use, no risk of melting your battery, though you have to deal with the size issues.
An SR-25, in real life, fires the 7.62 NATO round, while the M16 fires the 5.56 NATO. Essentially, they are extraordinarily similar, though one fires a larger bullet. Meaning, in airsoft, the magazines are going to be slightly longer.
To the untrained eye, an M16 with a stubby magazine might pass as an SR-25, but honestly, there's no comparison. The upper and lower receiver are completely incompatible, and the RIS system is free floating, while an M16's version is not.
Honestly, what your friend is looking for is a DMR style rifle, and an accurized, properly upgraded M16 is going to be a fine gun for the job; more customizing options, more parts, standardized parts, no specialty worries, etc. Internally, it's gonna be about the same, with the exception of a few parts, such as the shortened air nozzle (compared to the SR25s) hop up, and a few other internals.
Oh yes! I've purchased from Precision Airsoft several times, both in the store and online, and all my orders went smoothly and without delay. Their customer service is excellent, and I rely on them for a bulk of my orders.
Special Operations Groups, of all types, don't have any given, issued uniforms or equipment, because of the very nature of their groups; specialty. They need a greater degree of flexibility than a straight-leg group.
Well, I took a look at your video (props to you for posting a video). I have no experience with this particular problem, so don't take my word for it, but it looked like your outer barrel wasn't moving a lot. I'll trust you that it was, but it was difficult to tell. I think that's about as tight as you can get it, unless it wasn't acting like that before.
1. Have you reassembled this past this point? I think the handguard might help keep the barrel assembly from moving around more.
2. Tighten up your front sight post's pins.
Other than that, I am out of ideas. Take it to a local tech, and they would be able to help you more. Hope this helps; let me know how it goes!
It's probably your magazines; my Echo1 P90 has the same issue with MAG brand mid caps. I believe the magazine you are using are mid caps, so my advice is to take the magazine and fill it full of BBs, let it sit overnight, eject the BBs, then reload and try shooting your RDW again. By compressing the spring and breaking it in, you might have better feeding.
Yes, you can. CO2, when lubricated with silicone oil, is called red gas. I still recommend propane/green gas, since red gas is a bit more high maintenance than green, but if your heart is really set on it, Madbull makes a portable CO2 charger adapter, but I don't recall how much it costs.
A rifled barrel would cause the BB to spin in a football like spiral. The problem is that it wouldn't cause the BB to be more accurate, because of the dynamics of a sphere, and it would tumble, making it FAR less accurate than a normal barrel would.
Rifling causes the projectile to spin laterally (left to right, or right to left), while hop up causes a BB to spin longitudinally (bottom to top). Both methods are ways to combat the force of gravity and increase range for two different shaped projectiles.
Check out my guide to aggressive team tactics here
http://www.theairsoftsoldier.com/index.php?topic=6193.0
Honestly, whatever suits you as a team leader, but IMHO, being a TL and a rifleman is the most flexible combination. You aren't carrying too much, you don't have special roles to play, etc.
Right now, you have enough to conduct small scale tactics; I would be more interested in training your team rather than recruiting. An organized group will draw people in naturally.
Things not to do tactically;
1. Don't stop moving, unless you have no other choice.
2. Don't loose ground, but be flexible; change which direction the battlefield is played.
3. Press the flanks of your quarry, never the center.
4. Strike fast, strike hard.
For when you are the last man standing on your team.
1. Don't stop moving; don't take cover for any great period of time, don't hole up anywhere, and definitely do NOT suicide run. It's still winnable, but it's going to take a long time, and you have to be patient, careful, and well timed.
2. Shoot once, run twice, like the French. The solider who runs away lives to fight another day; in essence, run hit-and-run tactics like crazy. I like to set up one man ambushes where I shoot once, then fall back, regardless of whether I hit the guy or not. It keeps the enemy force guessing as to where exactly you are, where you are going to be next, etc.
3. Stay as invisible as possible, and never be spotted for any great length of time. When you are under the spotlight, find some solid cover, like a bunker, a stand of trees, then fade back into the background; your camouflage will help. Your opponents, if you do this correctly, will continue to press against that one position.
4. Take the circuitous route; in layman's terms, take the scenic route. It's often more difficult, but you won't be spotted, you will have a better chance of flanking your opponents, and you will be far less vulnerable to being cornered.
5. Plan your battles; don't be afraid to break engagement and get away. Time is on your side if you run away, but it isn't on your side if you continue to fight. The longer you stay in an engagement, the more likely you are to be flanked, cornered, and eliminated.
6. Multiply your force. If the opposing team doesn't know how many people you have on your team, you have a severe advantage over them. Attack from one side, withdraw, then attack from the other. This principle, the principle of Force Multiplication, can cause your opposing force to question it's footing, their ability to press the attack, and, thusly, stagnate their assault against you.
7. In short, wage offensive war, but don't do it for too long. Quantity, with time, overcomes quality without; you don't have quantity, so don't get bogged down.
It takes forever to win this way though, and you have to be incredibly quick, quiet, and agile, something most airsofters don't possess. It takes hard work, training, and excellent discipline to reach the level of discipline to wage conflict against superior numbers. Oftentimes, you will find that, despite your best efforts, you will not succeed if the other team is disciplined, trained, and organized, even moderately so. Guerrilla warfare is extraordinarily difficult to wage by yourself. If you ever get to the point where numbers are not on your side, say a 3 on 10 game, then it's time to wage guerrilla warfare. Don't wait until you are the only one left; otherwise, you won't have enough numbers to mount an effective resistance.
USPs are ambidextrous. The only other one that I can think of is the Tokyo Marui Five-seveN, but mags are probably difficult to find.
Maybe there are some airsoft Glocks out there that would be lefty friendly, but those are the only ones I can think of.
GO SOUTHPAWS! I'm one too.
It varies from state to state, county to county, but typically, 400 FPS is the limit for field guns, 350 for CQC, 600 FPS for sniper rifles, and about 450 FPS for support weapons. I would talk to the local group in your area and figure out what the limits for each field is.
There is no set ratio, but if a box of 12 grams costs you about 10 bucks for 15 cartridges, and a can of Coleman propane costs you about three bucks. Do the math, it adds up quick over time
No, vests are not required at all. The vests you see are for the carrying of extra equipment, like magazines, extra ammunition, grenades, etc.
You don't need 'em if you don't have many magazines, but, if you are airsofting, you should have some extra magazines and some sort of rig to carry them, for ease of reloading. You don't necessarily need a vest; I run leg panels of magazines, because I find vests constrict my breathing.
A 6.01mm tightbore is going to be a great choice for shooting as a sniper/DMR role, but ONLY if you use precision BBs and take the time to clean your barrel after every skirmish.
And the TSD SD700 should be fine for shooting.
Okay... what!?
Re-edit your question for clarity, because you aren't defining your problems we can all understand. Is your AEG stuck in semi auto? Does it not fire in semi auto? Is there a BB stuck down the barrel? What the hell is a forward position?
I don't think you have a BB stuck down the barrel, and, by shoving the dejamming rod down the barrel, you accidentally were pushing up against the tappet plate, which doesn't push back that far, which is why your dejamming rod broke. You might have damaged your tappet plate too. To fix this, you will need to have a fully charged battery, then fire your AEG in auto to release the anti-reverse lever inside the gearbox.
If that doesn't do it, you might have to trip the anti-reversal lever manually. If your gun is an M4, an AK, or other variant where the gearbox is contained in the pistol grip, you need to take off the pistol grip shell, pull off the motor, reach inside the gearbox with a small flathead screwdriver, and trip the anti-reversal latch. Go to mechbox.com to fully understand how to do it.
If there is a BB stuck down the barrel, then you are screwed; anything jammed that badly to break a dejamming rod in such confined quarters (since it can't really flex) is not going to come out. I would recommend buying a new barrel. If it's a BB, then you are using low end BBs and need to not use them anymore to prevent that from happening.
If you are looking to upgrade a gun externally, get the one with the flattop rail system. If you want one internally, it doesn't matter what you get, because they are both V2 gearboxes and essentially the same gun with a different skin.
ASGI is a lot more expensive then other airsoft sites, but they have a decent quality control, and their customer service is decent.
Evike is another good one
Airsplat is decent for ordering small stuff, but I won't ever order another gun from them, simply because there's no quality control.
Airsoft Megastore is another decent one that I've heard first hand, decent reports, about, but I've seen their prices, and, to be honest, their 'sale' prices are what the guns normally sell at. I think it's a dirty trick to get people to think they are getting a great deal, but in all reality, they aren't.
Precision Airsoft is my local store, located in Spokane, WA, and they are great! I order a lot of my stuff from there, mostly because they are close, but also because of their absolutely fantastic customer service!
Last, but not least, MilSpec Airsoft, started by crazyNCman, is a fabulous site to order from. He doesn't charge more for shipping, (like more and more sites are now) and, if you have any issues with your stuff, you can talk to him about it.
You're welcome! And don't forget to select a best answer!
What suits your play style?
For quick target acquisition, go with the holo sight. If you want a more traditional style, go with a tube red dot.
The nice thing about tube sights is the fact the sun doesn't play around with it; though typically you will find that parallax is a huge issue among all of them, red dot or holo. Parallax is an optical issue where the reticule doesn't aim at the same spot depending on your eye position relative to the sight.
I purchased the Generation 2 A&K Masada, and, though it has issues, it's a completely fieldable gun, and far better choice than others of the same price class. However, the biggest issue is the hop up; it sucks my big left... toe. I have to turn the hop up nearly full on to get .20 gram BBs to float right; .25s are out of the question, even though the gun could easily shoot them.
What I did to fix said problem is remove the barrel, pull the adjustment slide off the hop up body, (so the hop up arm springs free) and apply thin strips of electrical tape to the arm, so the slider can push the hop up arm into the bucking a little better. Essentially, the ghetto mod solution is to shim the hop up arm.
If you can find any, get the CNC hop up available for it. It (reportedly) can solve the problem perfectly. The reason I haven't gotten one is they are completely out of stock - everywhere.
Though if you are asking if it's worth it, yes, but you are buying a lot of Magpul licensing; my thoughts on it are that the gun is only worth about 220, while the licensing that A&K pays to Magpul is another 60-70 bucks.
The popcan chrono method is the most innaccurate method of chronoing your replica. I discovered a way to chrono ANY gun more accurately than a real chronograph, as long as you do the math right.
There's a link to the article.
http://www.theairsoftsoldier.com/index.php?topic=6253.msg76858#new
I use this method for all my guns, and it can be more accurate than any other chrono on the market, since it uses the power of my computer. AND it's totally free.
Second, I am assuming you are using .20 gram BBs; holding it point blank, any gun firing over 250 is going to puncture.
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
Typically, a shotgun is a decent choice for CQC. The rate of fire isn't all that great, for obvious reasons, but, honestly, you get a springer's ultra-low maintainence and high reliability.
You can be good with any airsoft gun that you choose, provided you know how to use it. The user that posted previously has no idea what he's talking about. I've seen, countless times, how often a person with a 'lower-end' gun absolutely destroys his competition, simply because his tactics are better, his communication with his teammates is far superior, or his efficiency with the gun itself.
In short, it's not the gun, it's the person pulling the trigger that counts.
Now to answer the second portion of your question, is it worth it? Depends on your play style!
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
I believe that would depend on your smart charger, but typically, yes. Does your smart charger have a trickle charge function? If it does, that might have spared your battery.
Welcome to the site, SMOKER.
As of two weeks ago, they have no working prototype; expected delivery is later this year.
Check KWA forums; they have a whole subsection devoted to the Kriss.
www.kwausa.com
Don't forget to pick the best answer!
No. Tracer Units operate by using a laser beam that, when broken by a passing BB, cause an LED or some other form of light to briefly, brightly, turn on. It should put absolutely ZERO wear on your gun, and your only issue would be finding a holster for it.
Technically, it depends on the Denier of the fabric. Anything above 500 Denier is great for airsoft, and anything about 1000 denier is going to be mil-spec.
Condor Tactical makes decent stuff; I would be able to trust it.
A while back, there was the chinese crackdown on airsoft replicas, which is why the availability of AEGs went down. As for GBBs, I haven't noticed. Can you re-edit your question and say which retailers you are looking at?
ASGI, Evike, Airsplat, MilSpec, all have GBBs available for sale.
It also might be another issue with the ATF; they started confiscating GBB rifles on the grounds that they could be modified to another weapon (which they can't.)
Hope this helps a little.
For the money, it's decent. For a few dollars more, you can get a pre-upgraded TSD sniper rifle from MilSpec Airsoft, and THAT is an impressive gun out of the box.
With a .20g BB, you are probably hitting just under 400 FPS
If you've been searching the whole internet, and haven't found anything, you are looking wrong. Virtually ANY m4 variant accessory will fit on a GR15. ASGI, Evike, and Airsplat all sell those accessories. Which should answer your first two questions.
Measure your inner tightbore length, and you should have the length you need without a barrel extension of some kind to hide it. And as for tightbore, a 6.03 is a great one for any type of BB; if you use only high quality BBs and take care to clean your barrel before and after every match, a 6.01 is the next best option.
Hope this helps, don't forget to choose the best answer!
IMHO, don't buy green gas. It's just pre-lubricated propane. Buy an adapter for 15 bucks, and spend 3 dollars a bottle on propane for the rest of your life, instead of 20 dollars per can o' green gas.
I don't trust it. When they give you "special deals" by jacking the MRSP way up and slashing them down to "sale prices" I don't trust them. It's a shady tactic used to get people thinking they are getting a great deal by purchasing from them.
My friends have all purchased from them, and they haven't had any negative, or stellar, reviews. They haven't had to contact their customer service though, so I would experiment with their customer service a little bit. Give 'em a call, see how long they take to answer the phone.
Can I select, "none of the above?"
Depends on the situation, but typically, I would flank with my teammate to the extreme right or left of my opponent, and use hit-and-run tactics until I evened the score.
Shoot once, run twice, essentially. (what can I say, I'm French!)
Personally, since I haven't seen the condition of the gun, the wear and tear, and the fact they have problems, I would give you $65 bucks for the JLS SCAR, and the $50 bucks for the CYMA AK74u.
I would call your retailer that sent you the G&G, and tell them that your selector switch doesn't have detents.
And you need to charge the battery before you plug it in, dude. It sounds like your voltage is too low to fire it in semi auto.
Unless your battery is fully charged, then there is a problem with the motor or the trigger assembly; in which case I would return it.
Your hop up bucking is misaligned. Watch some videos on hop ups, crazyNCman has one that's pretty good.
Check mechbox.com for how to fix guides.
In short, you are going to open up the gun, pull the hop up off, and re align the bucking so that it is in the twelve o'clock position.
At worst, it's a deformed hop up bucking, which is a few dollars to fix.
Um...
Realistically, you are not going to be able to upgrade either of them. Back when I bought an AEP like this, I couldn't strip it down without breaking the gun in two.
And honestly, they don't fire 230 FPS to begin with. Most AEPs at that price range are barely hitting 200, 175 at the most with .12s. I know this because I used to buy this kind of stuff.
And accuracy? ACCURACY? This gun has no accuracy past ten feet dude. Then again, I am comparing it to a GBB WE 1911 that I spent 100 bucks on, so there really is no comparison there.
If you are simply backyard airsofting, this gun is going to be fine. But the minute you go to a field, you are going to want something far nicer.
Sorry to burst your bubble, hope this helps. Don't forget to pick the best answer.
I have the same problem with my 4.3. Have you tried lubing the slide of your gun? I did that and it fixed the problem quick.
It could be the empty magazine catch on the follower that could be holding you up. Check your magazine for issues.
And it could be the gas nozzle.
Props to you for posting a video!
Holo sights, in my eyes, are far more preferable in CQC, since you don't have a long tube to sight down. Holo sights, additionally, are superior since they project the dot, rather than illuminate it, thusly causing your reticule to stay on target despite head position relative to the sight, an excellent feature for CQC.
The NcSTAR brand makes great holo sights for that price, but they lack a sunshade, so, in bright lights, it becomes near impossible to see the reticule.
So... you are saying that your BBs are jamming? That's because you probably aren't using quality BBs. TSD, BioVal, even, dare I say, Crosman Precision, are okay for the gun.
Yes, it is.
Saw the same video; Redwolf TV right?
I think you need to watch the video again, they specifically state it won't be on the market anytime soon.
Why would you want one anyway? I either want my gun to have all the kick of a real gun (not vibe, kick), or none at all. Sewing machines aren't fun to hold and shoot at people. Guns are.
It took me a minute to resolve your question, as it wasn't terribly clear. Keep that in mind for future questions.
They are 40 millimeter threads, which you can screw on sunshades, extra magnifiers, (for red dots).
Hope this helps, and don't forget to select the best answer.
If you want a run of the mill sooped up AEG, take REDARMY's advice. If you want a REAL DMR, follow this guide; the results are stunning. I've seen the results of this guide, and they blow KWA out of the water.
http://airsoftsniper.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=aeg&action=display&thread=1291
Take it easy,
**armor**
I have never owned this gun personally, but I've heard nothing but good things about it. For the price, it's a great little M4; there are better ones out there though, but, for the price, it's a great gun.
That muffled hissing should stop.
I noticed your other question. If you only get a couple shots, then I would recommend checking your magazine for hissing noises after you've filled it, for air current on your hand.
OR it could be that your gas can isn't filled or properly pressurized.
Read this article if you want a REALLY good DMR, and not just some average run of the mill AEG with a tightbore.
http://airsoftsniper.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=aeg&action=display&thread=1291
I've seen the results of this guide too. My friend followed this guide step by step, and the results are phenomenal! He easily gains tighter groupings than my SCAR ever did, and I upgraded the hop up and the tightbore barrel.
Define the term "worth it."
I own one, and it's a great AEG, the only problem is the hop up. It sucks, and needs to be replaced with the CNC hop up unit (which, unfortunately, is available nowhere!).
You can mod the hop up unit by taking slivers of electrical tape and taping over the hop up arm, under the adjustment slide, so it pushes the hop up arm into the chamber a little more effectively; otherwise, you have to have the hop up all the way on to even get .2s to float perfectly.
It's a little overpriced; you're paying about 50 bucks toward the "magpul masada" name and trades. Upgrade it, and it will shoot great! Nice TBB, hop up unit, and you will be cooking with gas.
Tobj has an excellent tip! I might just try that on all my guns.
Another thing you could try is to take a sliver of milk carton and carefully adhere it to your magazine or mag well.
Typical of M4 variants.
Unless it actually locks the bolt back and allows you to release it, then the only thing I can think of is for you to carefully cement it in place with a small drop of super glue. It's okay if it's loose though.
You could try the Pro Arms Velocity reducer (found it on evike), but I don't know how effective that's supposed to be.
Other than changing the spring, there's only one other way you could potentially lower the FPS, but it's dangerous to your replica. It's also a form of cheating the chronograph, which, we all know, can result in serious injury.
Don't listen to the forum warriors. Most of 'em barely remember the last time they went airsofting. They are a bunch of elitists who care about making themselves look good in the eyes of others.
My opinion? There is no "experience" levels; there are no "advanced" airsofters. Let others judge your experience levels, and you judge theirs. If you've been airsofting for years and years and years, but don't know a BB from a bearing, then you are a beginning airsofter.
Don't let ANYONE tell you that by buying guns it makes you a more experienced airsofter. That's like saying you can buy experience. Any idiot with half a brain in his head could be considered an expert because his wallet was fatter than another.
Hope that helps! Don't forget to select the best answer.
Okay, so you are confused. Great!
A&K is a Chinese cloner, albeit a nicer quality cloner than say CYMA and DBoys. Evike, ASGI, all retailers purchase this gun from A&K and call it an A&K.
Paintball masks make sighting down the barrel of your gun near impossible, as the cheek weld is about another inch away from your cheek. I would go with a set of shooters goggles or shooters glasses with a shemagh for mouth and face protection.
A&K probably makes the best China guns out there, and their Masada is no exception. The only complaint that I have, (and it's a huge one), is the hop up; it sucks! You have to mod it or replace it with the CNC hop up, and those are out of stock everywhere.
It is a bit overpriced, IMHO. For 300, you could get the performance of a KWA, Classic Army, or a Tokyo Marui.
Honestly, about 50 bucks that you are paying goes toward the "Masada" name and concept. It's a CoD fanboy's dream gun, so they upped the price to make a little more cash, knowing that people would buy it instead of the Magpul PTS Masada, which is around 480 bucks.
If you upgrade it, it's definitely on par with a lot of Classic Army's.
Did you check to see if your gas was low? If the pressure is lower, that would be the cause for the gas magazine to not fire all the shots.
Also check for hissing sounds, air current against your hand, etc.
To upgrade the air seal, you need to
a. Have a ported piston head, so the O-Ring presses against the walls of the cylinder.
b. A metal cylinder head, a metal air nozzle, and a metal hop up body.
A polar star concave spacer is a good start, followed by a prometheus or systema bucking; madbull buckings are okay at lower FPS, but better at higher ones.
And a metal hop up casing is a must, as well. Hope this helps
Heavier weight BBs don't put any unnecessary wear and tear on your AEG, at all. Your FPS drops down because the same amount of air is used, regardless of weight. Imagine trying to push an empty shopping cart. Really easy to push forward, right? Now imagine trying to push a line of 10. It's more difficult to get it going with the same amount of force used to push ahead the one shopping cart. Same idea.
I actually recommend using heavier mass BBs, if you have higher FPS guns.
No, it won't fit, because the M4 has a buffer tube that the stock attaches to, and the Magpul PTS masada stock isn't compatible with a buffer tube.
It would take some custom milling to allow for the Masada stock to fit to it. It may be able to fit to a WE PDW, (I don't know how the wire stock attaches to the PDW for sure).
I don't think Aftermath is a real company in the fact they make airsoft replicas; I think they rebrand lower end JGs and DBoys. I don't know for sure, since I don't own an Aftermath, so it's just hearsay.
However, from what I've seen, they are about on par with JG and CYMA.
The SCAR-H, if you read up on it, is a 7.62mm gun, vs the SCAR-L, which is a 5.56 variant. Essentially, the difference between the two real steels is one fires a heavier bullet.
The Airsoft version is going to be slightly more expensive because of that same difference, only externallly. It will appear to fire a heavier bullet, so there must be more material around the mag well to make the replica appear it; as well, the real steel SCAR-H has a slightly longer barrel than the SCAR-L standard.
Best way to practice is trial and error. There isn't really a way to practice without actually opening up the gearbox. It also depends on what kind of gearbox you have; V2s and V3s are easy to work on, while V4, V5, and V6 are a pain. At least to me...
Check out mechbox.com for tips and tricks, and I wish you the best of luck.
Don't forget to select the best answer!
You might as well not bother, if you are on a limited budget, then you probably shouldn't be upgrading to LiPo. LiPos require special chargers, require a LiPo alarm, etc.
You probably could use a 7.4v LiPo, but the 11.1 is for upgraded guns. A 7.4 has a discharge rate of about a 9.6v NiMH.
Evike sells a Velocity reducer for around 15 bucks, but I don't know if it works as well as it's advertised.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_87&products_id=29489
Other than that, it's really not possible.
There are going to be better brands than JG. It's a lower end gun, but it still is a skirmishable replica.
The people who have problems with JG are people who have owned higher end guns like KWA, Tokyo Marui, Classic Army, have spent more money on high end guns, and are snooty about it. They say JG sucks, and to a point, they are correct. JG sucks COMPARITIVELY.
BUT, alone, the JG line is a fine model to pick. Their quality control is something to be desired, but all my experience with JG is decent. I am not comparing to KWAs, or Classic Army, or G&G, because there is no comparison. It's like comparing a Ford Mustang to a Ferrari or Lamborghini. The Mustang is a fabulous car, but if it's sitting next to a Ferrari, are you more likely to think the Mustang is a nicer car?
crazyNCman is right. You probably aren't ready to handle a LiPo battery. LiPo batteries, though rewarding, can be a hassle, far more than a regular NiMH battery. I have decided to stray away from them as much as possible, since I can achieve what I want without a LiPo battery.
If you simply want more ROF, then upgrade to a 9.6v NiMH battery. Anything higher, and you need to upgrade the internals.
I own both. And honestly, if you are looking for a first airsoft gun, go with the G&G; it's more durable, will last longer, and perform better.
However, if you are looking at a second, or third gun, the DBoys SCAR is an excellent platform gun; meaning it's upgrading potential is VERY high. I've seen people take DBoys SCARs and upgrade them to DMR platforms, CQC platforms, etc. You can do that with the combat machine, but, you will get more rewards out of an upgraded DBoys than an upgraded G&G.
Just my personal opinion. Nobody should tell you what to get, because that's ridiculous. It's like asking "What fruit should I eat; apples or oranges?" Some people will tell you apples because they keep doctors away, and other people say oranges because they keep scurvy away. In either case, you need to realize that it's a matter of opinion, not a matter of fact.
I prefer the SCAR-L; it's the more versatile weapon; folding, collapsable stock, more real estate for accessories and optics, and the stock, out of the box shooters ergonomics are far superior to an M4s.
I use Crosman .20 gram BBs, and they are decent, but with a few exceptions. I find a few BBs that are dimpled occasionally, maybe a small handful per case of 5000, but, I've noticed even the TSDs, KSCs, and Madbull BBs all have a few dimpled BBs. For the price, and the convienience, they are perfect for shooting.
They aren't terribly precise, however. I had consistant jams in a modified 6.01 tightbore, but I ran them through a Classic Army SL8 with a 6.04mm tightbore with no problems whatsoever.
Just keep an eye on 'em and they should run fine. I did find terribly misformed BBs on 'sporting good specials', so I would avoid those.
Depends on how close you are and how wimpy your friends are... XD
No, just playin'. I can say that .25s will work just fine, and for just backyard skirmishes, they are great. No need to order online.
Their .20 grams have a couple dimpled BBs in their cases, so be aware of that when you buy their .25s. Dimples don't harm the gun, just throw your BB off a lot; it's the misformed ones you have to be aware of. I haven't found any yet, and I've gone through easy 15 or 20 cases of them. If you do the math, that's over 100,000, no misforms.
Yes, but you don't have to buy Magpul specific rails. I cannibalized a side rail off of my DBoys SCAR and fit it to the underside of my Masada with a couple small screws and a couple nuts.
http://www.theairsoftsoldier.com/index.php?topic=6193.0
Leading your team isn't easy, and it requires practice, coordination, communication, and initiative. Be authoritative, but don't be an ***. Nobody wants to follow a tightwad douche, and being that tightwad douche isn't going to help your team to victory.
I would recommend reading some books on leadership, such as Sun Tzu and the Art of War, a few Air Force, Army field manuals on leadership, etc.
Max effective range is about 150 feet, while maximum range is just barely 200. effective range is the maximum distance you can effectively engage targets at, while maximum range is where the BBs are dropping off.
If it's a standard bar type battery, like the one you will get stock with the gun, sure, it will fit, but the more battery cells that are crammed in there, the longer it's going to be. And with the SCAR's collapsible stock, you won't be able to collapse the stock down to the lower positions; you still should be able to fold it, though.
Increasing your BB mass won't harm your gun; it will make it perform differently, though. And .30 aren't "sniper" rounds, just heavier rounds. Sniper rounds are more like .4 or higher.
Okay, what? I doubt your gun will have anything to say to you, simply because its an inanimate object...
I don't know what kind of gun it is, but it probably can handle the 8.4v.
I normally come wearing my camo, with my tactical gear in a bag so I can just go. Most places I've seen have a private place where you can change, but it's normally pretty awkward, like a Porta-Potty, or a small bathroom. It's generally a better idea to just wear your stuff to the field.
Just so I understand this correctly, your flash hider is cracked, in HALF, and you can't get it off? Or is it that part of it cracked off, but the majority is still attached?
in either case, you can heat the flash hider until the glue melts and you can unscrew it, OR, if you are REALLY careful, you can carefully cut the flash hider off with a Dremel tool or a hacksaw. I Dremeled my flash hider off with no problems, but I have a steadier hand than most. The hairdryer method doesn't work too well, in my experience, and holding your replica over a tub of boiling water is a recipe for disaster.
Probably made out of pot metal, since aluminum is the next step up from that, but the price isn't quite high enough for the manufacturer to make money off of it.
Just so you know, pot metal is a poorer, impure metal, at least comparatively to aluminum or cast steel. It looks fine, but durability-wise... I guess it's comparative to a medium quality plastic. Better than cheap plastic by far, but certainly not better than a high quality polymer.
Dude, hate to tell you, but it's a low end red dot, and repairs are nonexistent on on this kind of stuff. If your optic was an EOTech, a Trijicon ACOG, Ziess, Leupold, or Aimpoint, even Bushnell, you might be in luck.
I would just invest money in another red dot, and a protective cover for it. An EOTech, Aimpoint, or ACOG replica would be a good choice, and grant your airsoft gun a more 'milsim' look.
Slam fire is not good, on any airsoft gun, including the Crosman. My friend has one and it broke after slam firing the thing almost exclusively.
Slam fire basically would be fine if people didn't slam so hard on the forward motion of the pump action. People tend to snap their hands forward too hard, prematurely wearing down the sear inside the shotgun, OR breaking the pump slide, OR the pump cylinder itself. The term "slam fire" just sounds brutal on the internals...
It all depends on how gentle you are with the slam fire, and how often it is slam fired.
It all depends on the store. Call them up, ask if they customize their guns, and ask if you can mail your gun to them to have it upgraded.
If it's just a new barrel, those are really simple to upgrade. Watch a few disassembly videos (youtube search it), and you will most likely be able to do it yourself.
It's a LaRue Tactical Rail, which is a real steel firearm accessories manufacturer, and KWA is designed for military abuse and customization. Of course it will fit! Unless the length is wrong, then no, it won't fit at all.
OD BDUs?
OD is a color, you know. OD is green. OD stands for Olive Drab.
If you are looking for BDUs, go to a military surplus store to browse, and pick something that matches the environment you play in, or a pattern that you like.
This is all I could find. It looks like they are discontinued.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_576&products_id=29894
Besides, you are way better off getting an aftermarket foregrip and sticking that on the rails; aug foregrips are notoriously, dangerously wobbly.
Yes, there guns are skirmishable; they are a rebrander, an admitted rebrander. However, it's the finest rebrander I've seen.
Javelin Airsoft Works was started by Spartan Imports, a major US distributor of CA, TM, and other fine airsoft replicas, for the purpose of quality control. Basically, they take JGs, CYMAs, DBoys, and go through them internally to replace piss-poor quality parts. End result; brand, spanking new, freakin' awesome AEGs. Not LiPo ready by any stretch of the imagination, but more reliable and skirmishable weapon.
If you are using .12g BBs in your AEG, then I am surprised you haven't broken something already; .12g is like dry firing your AEG over and over again.
Unless you are using a lower end LPEG, then .20 might be too much for your AEG. I don't know how much it will drop, because I don't know what gun it is, and how hard it currently fires with the .12g BB.
What makes it better? Nothing, just that the Blackside suppressor has real steel trades. I have a Madbull Gemtech suppressor, "Outback", and honestly, it isn't any better than the no-name, no trade suppressor that I got for ten bucks cheaper.
I think that the Madbull looks WAY better than a silencer w/o trades, IMHO, but as for functionality or durability, they are essentially the same. It's the realism factor that you are buying with the Madbull, not performance or durability.
Just so you know, Gemtech is one of the leading suppressor manufacturers here in the U.S., based out of Boise, ID, which is why everyone wants the "Gemtech" name on their suppressor.
I am glad you asked this!
1. Well set up shots; no shaky camera, no boring head on shots, background noise, etc.
2. Interesting dialogue. I like to listen to someone who, not only knows what they are talking about, but actually makes it sound halfway interesting.
3. No stupid humor. Humor is fine, but idiot humor isn't funny.
4. Actually make videos about what you know, not what everyone else knows. I hate it when I see the 12 year old making a video about stuff he doesn't know about, but I do. He makes himself look like a fool, and degrades the quality of our video community.
Definitely! Hands down, without a doubt, a coordinated team in the field will always best the team that can't communicate. I've seen it time after time after time, when one team has radio communication, it opens the doors to more coordinated tactics, far more precise than any team that has to resort to traditional methods.
It's a nice idea to distinguish your team apart from everyone else, but personally, I think there are better ways to do it.
1. Wear something that's part of your uniform, yet distinctive. Like the same eye pro, the same uniform (besides m82 woodland), the same boots, same shemagh, etc.
2. The same gun. I think it would be highly distinctive if everyone carried a type 89 or L85 around, since you rarely see those on the field nowadays.
Personally, after handling ICS products, they do fine, but the external quality is crap compared to, say a KWA, SRC, or even an A&K.
Good example; I was at the local store recently, picking up the different store models, and found an ICS m4, not the sportline models, mind you. I picked it up, and the fore grip was wobbly, noticibly plasticky, and rather obnoxious. I asked if all their guns were like this, and the techs said "Typically." I turned around and picked up a KWA Battle Rifle, and it felt exactly like the real thing.
In short, yes, they do fine, so long as you don't compare their build quality with guns of higher prices. They are worth the moola.
Okay, to dispel some myths that seem to be prevalent.
1. Red Gas = Propane
2. Green Gas = Propane w/silicone oil
3. Propane = Green gas - silicone oil
CO2 is in a league all by itself. Now before everyone goes all "Don't be a fag" on me, Arnie's Airsoft did a investigation into it, and the results are thus.
Your hop up bucking is probably misaligned, a simple fix. Watch a few videos on the construction of hop ups, and you should be able to diagnose the problem for sure.
No.
Save your moola. ANYTHING under 100 is going to be a waste of money, and will break/wear down in a matter of weeks. I have the experience with this stuff, I was in the same position you are right now. I spent too much money on crap trying to find the one that is great, for cheap, and frankly, it doesn't exist.
The closest you are going to come to budget awesome is the CYMA CM028, which is an AK47 variant about $110 MSRP.
.12. Used for anything under $75, low end springers and LPEGs. Never use in anything even halfway decent.
.20 The industry standard. All guns are safe using this weight of BB.
.23 An up and coming variety, .23s are the bridge between .20 and .25
.25 The low end of the heavier weight class of BB. Used in lower end spring sniper rifles and some higher powered AEGs.
.28 Bridge between .25 and .30
.30 Typically used in mid quality sniper rifles, DMR setups, and high end AEGs. You get serious range advantages in a gun that can take .30 over .20
.34 The standard 8mm weight. Also available in 6mm
.35 Bridge between .30 and .40
.39 Precision BB, (haven't seen any on the field recently)
.40 Popular heavy weight BB, used in highly upgraded and modded sniper rifles.
I don't know if it will, because it depends on the consistency of the oil. Only pure silicone oil will not harm your gun, because almost all other oils eat away at the rubber seals, buckings, and moving parts of your GBB replica. If the Hoppes oil is pure silicone oil, then it probably will be fine.
My first impression is to say no, because Silicone oil dries and still lubricates, while most gun oils I've seen stay wet. Don't quote me on this, I am probably wrong. Do some research, google search it!
Yes and no.
A tightbore barrel increases accuracy AT range, not both. Your gun may shoot slightly harder (maybe 5 or 10 FPS harder) but a change in FPS of that magnitude will not be noticeable.
You may get tighter groupings at your current range. So instead of hitting a six inch target at 75 feet you hit a three inch target at 75 feet, just for example.
And I would recommend upgrading the hop up unit, getting a Polar Star Concave spacer (because they are AMAZING), upgrading the whole hop up casing to metal, and a new bucking. A solid, consistent hop up unit will make your accuracy and consistency at range FAR more incredible than a tightbore will.
KWA is a great brand; they've got a 45 day warrenty, superb internals, and outstanding craftsmanship. I held an ICS M4 and turned around and held a KWA M4, (literally) and the difference was the difference between an inch and a mile. HUGE.
KWA, at least in Spokane, WA, is the only brand that is bought exclusively by military and law enforcement trainers, simply because they can withstand military tolerances. I was informed this by a store owner.
All KWA guns are LiPo ready out of the box, a rarity in our market.
In short, ANY KWA is going to outperform any other AEG out of the box, including Tokyo Marui.
Most American sites don't offer two toning of airsoft replicas, simply because in the US it's not requisite to have a two toned airsoft replica.
I would check with Arnie's Airsoft. They have a site map for England, and are an authority on airsoft in England.
The search feature works fine on this site. People need to use it more.
Green gas is a better gas to use in your airsoft replicas because CO2 is a dry gas while green gas has silicone lubricant in the aerosol.
Like I tell everyone, buy a propane adapter, (15 bucks) and just buy propane instead of green gas, since propane and green gas are essentially the same thing. Propane is a dry gas though.
Are you holding the propane can upside down so the propane can enter your magazine? If so, then you might have a faulty magazine.
Don't forget to select the best answer.
Strong shot? Meaning it's firing harder the first time, not so much the second?
I think it might be a misaligned sector gear. Did you put the sector gear to tappet plate nub at about the 1:00 position? If not, your sector gear might not be drawing the piston back inconsistently.
I hope that helps, and don't forget to select the best answer, whichever that one is.
Dude, they are going to have the same amount of mAh, so the charge won't be any different.
As well, a 7.4 LiPo is about the equivalent of a 9.6v NiMH.
And yes, if you clip off the Tamiya connector, you can resolder the wiring to Deans.
So you are saying the gas leaks out of the magazine? That could be as simple as a crappy o-ring at the fill port, or it could be that the whole thing is faulty.
First, do you even have a team? If you don't, I wouldn't be building a website or even having a designated uniform.
Second, run it really relaxed, otherwise, you won't have people interested. Yeah, I want to get serious too, but no one else is gonna want to be part of a paramilitary group. They want to go out, make friends, play a great game, and have fun.
Third, don't get an official uniform until you have commitment. Like, people coming to weekly practices on a regular basis.
Fourth, don't go for sponsors until you have completed all of the above.
So, to sum up;
1. Get a weekly practice where basic elements are discussed and practiced. (Team tactics, skills course, calisthenics [if you're team feels adventurous])
2. Don't be uptight and hardcore, at least at first. Get a team going, get practicing, then up the ante later on. Don't be the tightwad who doesn't want to have fun and simply wants to be the guy barking orders. No one likes that, and you won't have a successful team without it.
3. No official uniform until EVERYONE is coming to practices regularly. THEN take a team vote. This stuff costs money, and everyone doesn't want to buy multicam just for a team that may or may not take off.
4. Sponsors are for when you actually get your name out at the field, when you are a halfway decent team, and actually have a chance of getting recognized. Sponsors want people who are going to games on a regular basis (like, EVERY weekend) to their name, product, whatnot, gets out there and advertised. Sponsors could care less what you do, as long as it brings in a customer.
5. Don't test people, take what you can get, at least at first. Odds are you aren't gonna have a flood of volunteers to choose from. Take what you can get.
Yes that means taking the kid who plays with spring pistols. Why? That kid is gonna get a job someday, and, after playing with loaner guns for a while, is going to want his own gun that blows away the competition, making him a valuable asset. It just takes time.
Honestly, it sounds like your current team leader has the right idea. Teams are for having fun, playing with friends. Sponsored teams are for people who have time and money to play every weekend, without fail.
Essentially
Time + Money x people with the same = sponsored team
Time + Money x nobody interested = no team
Yes; a MOSFET cycles the motor once for every shot taken, and regulates the flow of electricity through your motor, eliminating the risk of burnout or melting your wiring due to a high output battery.
A sector clip simply holds the tappet plate and air nozzle back longer for more reliable feeding. It sure helps, but I don't think a sector clip is going to increase the longevity of your replica, other than perhaps saving you from ruining your air nozzle too soon.
Hope this helps, and don't forget to choose the best answer.
Boiling water works, but can be awkward to hold your replica over a pot of boiling water for at least five to ten minutes (not my favorite tactic)
If you are EXTREMELY precise with a dremel, you can slice it off. Or take a hack saw and carefully slice through it. If you are patient enough, you can cut all the way through it with no damage to the outer barrel.
Use a holographic sight (aka reflex sight). It allows for quicker target acquisition, which is a HUGE must in CQC.
But no sight will do you any good if you don't know how to use it. Iron sights work fine, but holo sights work better.
Well, howdy! Nice hearin' from all y'all from across the pond!
Well, I called 'em up (so you didn't have to), and they gave me a big thumbs up. Go right on ahead!
Green gas, simply because it's cheaper, it lubes the gun as it goes along, and it keeps things running like a top.
Co2, though more widely available, isn't as good because it typically fires harder, dries internals as the gas moves through, and isn't nearly as effective or cost effective.
Something to note, and I always note this when I answer a question like this, green gas is PROPANE. Yes, you heard me right, propane. The propane is simply lubed with silicone oil so it lubes the internals. Don't forget to pick the best answer.
Maruzen makes a high end one, running at about 180 bucks a pop, then there is the Umarex one, running at about 60-90 bucks each. The Maruzen is the better of the two, but the Umarex is a CO2 fed one.
And just so you know, they aren't P9s, they are P99s. P9s are made by Ruger.
Hate to break it to ya, but most batteries come with Tamiya. I had my Deans connectors custom wired, which is the situation you will find almost all airsofters.
It really isn't that difficult to wire them, though. A soldering iron, heat shrink, and you are ready to rock and roll!
Honestly, if you are a sniper, you won't need a suppressor, simply because at 200 feet, (solid sniping distance) you can't hear the shot. A suppressor, in airsoft, allows for a longer inner barrel without it showing. It's all for show.
If you want your gun to operate more silently, fill the receiver (or stock, if you use a springer) with foam padding, if you can fit it, so it will muffle the sound. Go to automotive stereo shops and ask for the thinnest sound insulator they have, and you might be able to use that to muffle the sound of the gearbox and motor. But you probably won't be able to do much, since there is so little space in there anyway.
Depends on your rate of fire. If your ROF is too high for your magazine to keep up with, I suggest a sector gear clip, so your air nozzle is held back longer by the tappet plate, allowing for more reliable feeding.
A MOSFET chip allows for a fuse-less circuit. MOSFETs also cycle the motor once completely for every shot fired, allow for higher voltage batteries, and ensure that you won't tear up your gearbox too terribly bad. They also allow for more standard rates of current to pass through the circuit.
and on a side note, crazyNCman is extremely busy, and may not have time to answer every question. Please don't pester the man with questions that could just as easily be answered by another person.
Some forums, like Airsoft Society, The Airsoft Soldier, or Spokane Airsoft have classified ads where players can list their used/upgraded equipment.
I don't like to buy from Airsoft Forum though; a bunch of flamers and trolls who don't care enough to answer questions or promote uplifting discourse.
I can tell you copy pasted that description from Airsplat; I ordered the same way.
I would avoid buying guns from Airsplat; every gun I have purchased (literally, EVERY one) has had poor service or poorer products.
The gun itself runs fine, and I didn't have problems with it while it lasted. I run it on propane with the TAG adapter (also available from Airsplat) and it runs great!
Oh, and just so you know, propane IS green gas, but the only difference is that green gas has silicone oil mixed in with it so that it lubricates the internals as the gas flows through the gun. Straight propane drys out the internals causing excess friction, and will deteriorate the lifetime of your replica
350 FPS is kinda an accepted CQB field standard, because from 20 feet away, 400 FPS hurts like a mother. Semi auto only is also a popular rule.
And I didn't know you could kick someone with your fist...
Add a little slice of milk carton to the back of the PMag, so when it is inserted into the mag well, it is more tight against the mag well. and you can also add a small slice of it to the female magazine catch (the mag catch on the magazine)
You would most likely need one, since the sector gear clip causes the tappet plate to hold the air nozzle back longer, allowing your BBs to feed into the cylinder more reliably. Mid caps, since they don't have the spring pressure on the BB stack of a high cap magazine, won't feed nearly as reliably on automatic.
It also depends on your current setup too. Does your current magazine keep up with the 11.1 LiPo? If not, it would be a solid idea to get a sector clip. If it does, then you probably don't need it.
Dude, experts have lives, and we don't want to be rushed.
I say no, after taking a look at it, a SERPA holster will fit a regular M9, with the attachments, but without them it should be fine.
Hahaha, I got one and had the exact same problem.
Take a hammer and a screwdriver and tap out the pin. Take the pin, and CAREFULLY sand down the ridges on the pin, and ensure that it slides through the hand guard and receiver. It should take care of your problem.
You might consider replacing it too.
Good Question! No, a fuse is not necessary to the operation of a gun.
HOWEVER, by removing the fuse, you heighten the risk of burning out your motor with too much voltage coming from the battery. The fuse is a small piece of metal encased in a glass or other non conducting container, which, when too much current passes through, it melts, breaking the circuit and thereby saving your motor from burnout ($50+ to repair). The fuse is super cheap to replace (a few dollars for five of them at an auto store).
If the gun has a MOSFET chip in the circuit, then there is no need for a fuse in the circuit, since a MOSFET regulates the amount of current passing through the circuit and cycles the motor a full cycle every trigger pull, semi and automatic.
Divide the total mAh on the battery by the output mAh of your charger, and you have the time to charge it for.
OR you could invest in a smart charger (HIGHLY recommended) and, not only charge them correctly, but safely too, and not have to worry about overcharging it. It also reduces charge time by hours.
No. I live in North Idaho, and green gas doesn't function well below 40 degrees. I would say that you should get one anyway, simply because it will warm up during the summer, and a sidearm is a great compliment to an AEG.
Well, I've never had any experience with them, but, to be on the safe side, it would be a wise idea to upgrade to a higher quality trigger assembly so the sear doesn't break, and I don't think you will need a piston upgrade, unless you are REALLY upping the FPS on it. I wouldn't bother upgrading the piston unless you are pushing the gun past 450 FPS, and then you will need to upgrade the piston, trigger set, piston head, and possibly cylinder. This is just a guess, so you know, I haven't had a ton of experience with spring upgrades.
Zip Ties are a great alternative to spending money.
I think Contour HD actually sells an RIS attachment that you could use to mount the camera to your RIS system on your SR10. Provided that your helmet cam has the camera screw hole on the bottom.
'Tis just a guess, since I've never held or seen either of these.
Alien is a great game, where one person is the alien, and everyone else is hunting him. The alien can only be killed if he is hit in the back, and, if they alien hits you, you have ten seconds to run away from your teammates before you become alien spawn, and have to assist the alien. You can still be eliminated normally (i.e. a hit to the foot). The alien's goal is to get everyone on his side, while everyone else's goal is to eliminate the alien.
Manhunt is also a great game, where one or two people are "The hunted" while everyone else are "The Posse". Posse tries to get the hunted, while the hunted try to eliminate the posse or evade them for a certain amount of time.
You could also try Pistol Whip, which is a game where everyone is armed with a spring pistol, and, when you tag someone, they turn to your team. After they are tagged onto your team, they can be eliminated by a second hit. It's sound lame, but it's kinda chaotic, and fast paced.
Assault is another good one, where the defending team, armed with spring shotguns and pistols, have to defend a zone from an assaulting team, armed with AEGs.
CYMA makes fabulous budget guns. They run, they last a while, and they are not terribly expensive. The CYMA CM028 (AK47 variant) is one of the best budget AEGs in it's price range. Internally, not the best, obviously, but it works and lasts. I wouldn't be sticking a 9.6 volt battery in one any time soon, but it works just fine with an 8.4 volt.
I would say yes, but use caution. Lower end rifles tend to be more sensitive to change, and upgrading the battery might burn out the motor or strip the piston.
Meaning it won't cycle on semi only? Or it won't fire at all? If you were firing it on semi auto quickly, and it locked up, simply rotate the selector switch to fire and fire the replica on auto; it should unlock the gearbox. OR, if you REALLY locked up the gearbox, trip the anti-reversal latch.
Meh, not a fan of CO2, as they tend to wear the internals WAY faster. You can get the green gas version and also purchase a TAG propane to green gas adapter for 15 bucks more, and save you money on CO2 canisters in the long run. I did that with my KJW Glock 32, and I've but nearly seven thousand rounds through it, and only on a couple bottles of Coleman Propane! The cheap propane from Walmart is like a couple bucks, whereas a box of CO2 canisters cost you a few dollars less; shots per dollar is higher with the propane to green gas adapter.
Depends on the gun you use, and I don't think there is any specific shot amount. Gas Blow Backs are gas guzzlers, while Non Blow Backs are more economical, though definitely not as cool.
If you are concerned with price per value, I would recommend getting a propane to green gas adapter like the TAG adapter or the Airsoft Innovations adapter, which allows you to use propane in your green gas guns. It's WAY cheaper in the long run.
AND, so you know, green gas IS propane, just with silicone oil added to it to lubricate the gun as the gas flows through the system.
Which AEG is it?
I think regular pitch springs cause a twanging or dinging noise after they slam the piston head against the cylinder head due to vibration. Meaning, in order to fix this, find a irregular pitch spring (meaning it will have a tighter compression in the middle) and I think this might fix the problem.
This is just a guess, so please take it to someone experienced in your local area or to a local tech shop.
It's possible that your barrel is misaligned with your hop up; are the BBs getting a weird spin on them. I had the same issue with my gun. It's also possible that the tightbore (depending on if it's a 6.01) is slowing down the BB.
Most AK variant magazines will fit in a DBoys AK74. You might want to try a local proshop in your area so you can try them out. But since the AK74 is a variant of the AK47, it seems logical to me that all AK47 magazines will fit.
Probably not, but the goggles that I use are Arena Flakjacks and I haven't had a single fog up issue at all, plus the goggles are about the same price as your turbo fan goggles.
OR if you are experienced with circuits, switches and soldering, you can make one of these for dirt cheap. Just buy a small computer fan from a electronic hardware store (like radio shack), a simple switch (also from radioshack), a nine volt battery female end (radio shack) and wiring (radio shack) and you can solder a simple circuit that will do the job for less money.
On an 8.4 volt battery, they will perform relatively close. They are essentially the same gun (or so I am told) and they will perform about the same. Either is a good option, but I have heard the Echo 1 might last longer simply because they take crappy parts out of the JG one and stick slightly better ones in there and give it a warranty.
In terms of performance, they will probably perform right about the same; in terms of functionality, the SCAR is a far better choice to an M4, simply because it's far more modular, has a folding stock (which the m4 doesn't).
G&G's Combat Machine Raider probably would be a better option to the DBoys M4. I bought the G&G GR16 Raider after I bought my first gun (a DBoys SCAR) and I regretted not buying the G&G first.
The SCAR is a great platform gun; probably the best platform SCAR-L on the market. Upgrade the internals, and you have a gun that can easily outperform it's stock Classic Army, VFC and Star competitors.
I say check out the G&G Gr16 Raider as an alternative to the DBoys M4, and, if you don't want an M4, get the SCAR. Best bang for buck SCAR out there.
Nope, H&K is holding the design rights to it, and CA is not going to be producing any anytime soon. Too bad too; I own one, and dadgum, it's the finest DMR setup out of the box that I've ever encountered! Tightbore barrel, lowcap magazine, integrated scope and bipod, solid internals and externals. The FPS could use a little upping but otherwise it's a solid gun!
But to get back on track, you will probably have to buy one used. I might sell my current one, but that depends on if I can get it back together.
First, do what clayyalc suggested.
Second, my recommendation on M4 style rifles? Definately the G&G Gr-16, their combat machine m4. I was shocked at how high performing it is without putting some serious dollar into it. I WISH I had bought one when I was first starting out.
Plus, at 140 bucks, you can afford a solid optic of your choice! My suggestion is a replica EOTech, since holo sights for airsoft are the best choice in the field and close quarters.
Starting a team isn't easy. Teams require time, care, and oftentimes, money. If you don't have one of the aforementioned requisites, then you are S.O.L.
Get your friends together, or, if you have a complete lack of social contacts, then find some at your local field or on Craigslist. Schedule practices, get a name ( and be creative! Avoid cliche words like Task Force, SEALs, Green Beret, Spetznaz, SAS, etc), and go to scenarios, AS A TEAM.
Check Evike.com. They sell a decent device that, when you attach different O rings around the front, cause a set of lips to tighten or loosen, thusly causing your muzzle FPS to drop. I don't know how if affects accuracy though. Good to check into.
Here it is.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_87&products_id=30282
Google solves a lot of problems, ya know?
http://www.blackhawk.com/product/STRIKE-Folding-Dump-Pouch,755,55.htm
Blackhawk! definitely make some of the best outdoor tactical gear I've seen and handled.
Your motor height is not adjusted properly. Adjust the large screw at the bottom of the baseplate until your pinion gear (the gear at the top of the motor) makes contact with the bevel gear, and it should fire properly after that.
You most likely inadvertently adjusted the motor mount too high, so the pinion gear is either too high to turn the gear or it isn't in contact with the bevel gear at all. If you do this, and there isn't any change, you might have stripped off the gear teeth on either of the two gears, and your gun might be toast. I would take it to a technician if the first idea doesn't work.
Typically no, but I highly recommend wearing camouflage. You don't look like a newbie, your outline is blurred and reduced when not moving, and it's part of airsoft. Some fields may require you, but I haven't heard of one that does.
Spokane Airsoft, the local club, doesn't require camo, but may place you on a different team depending on what you wear. If you are wearing MARPAT, then you might get a U.S. team slot, while wearing street clothes will get you a slot on the OpFor team.
Most clubs or fields that I've heard of require boots, so street shoes won't cut it.
Lemme get this straight. You shot a tree near one of your buddies. Your buddy turns and blank fires, you freak out in the process, and run. Your friend loads a BB into the chamber and fires, hitting you. When you are done with your shenanagins, a second idiot, one nearby, shoots you in the eye? If the kid is immature and irresponsible, then don't invite him. Don't deal with him. And if your friends are in agreement, don't let him come. You need to set some ground rules too.
Honestly. I mostly backyard skirmish, and, though there are no set in stone sort of rulebook, we have basic groundrules. We don't point guns at each other when we are loading, unless we all want to get shot. We don't screw around when we aren't wearing eye protection, and we definitely don't point guns at those who are not wearing eye protection.
I used to deal with a kid who seems just like the person you are describing. One who never owns up to anything, doesn't admit when he broke something, never offers to pay for anything he broke, and what was the result? We, meaning I and my friends, blackballed him from coming to our games. We didn't invite him, we didn't speak to him about airsoft, and, if by some chance he rudely decided to come anyway, we didn't help him out, loan him anything, or whatever. We essentially outlawed him. We weren't rude about it, but we were firm, and stood our ground. He begged, whined, and flat out threatened some people to invite him airsofting, let them use their gear, or whatnot. Suffice it to say, he never came ever again. And we didn't let up on him, so long as he continued to act the way he did.
Very plainly state to the kid, (not alone, with your airsofting group) that you and the group feel that his actions are out of line, and that, as a result of said actions, (state VERY specifically what he did to you and your group) he will not come to your airsofting group's skirmishes for a time. He will not be invited until he can prove his maturity and integrity again. And don't back down from your answer! If it's the kind of person I am thinking about, he is going to whine, plead, beg, lie, cheat, and downright menace your group. Don't give in! Giving into this kind of person WILL NOT FIX THE PROBLEM! No matter how convincing his argument, if you think he is lying, don't back down.
Now, he is faced with two choices; either fix his attitude and actions and continue to play, OR continue to live the way he lives and not come at all. It's that simple. Deal with the problem, then continue to have fun.
It's these kind of people that give our sport a bad name. Avoid these people like the plague. Blackball 'em, if necessary, if you feel that there is no hope for change, but give him a chance. Let him know that if he slips up, he screws up for good, no ifs, ands, or buts. If you are polite but serious in your response, the guy will clue in to how serious this is to you.
Don't forget to choose the best response, and good luck!
The other answer wasn't every clear.
Bio BBs, sorry, just plain suck. Bios are fine until they get a little bit of moisture on them, then they begin to degrade. This moisture can come from anywhere. Even though it's not 'green' or 'environmentally friendly' I use the good ol' plastic BBs, just because they are reliable, cheap, and otherwise decent.
Some bios like Biovals, are alright, but the same rules apply. I don't like 'em just because the area I live in can be somewhat humid all year round, and Bios don't store well in humid conditions.
Just avoid them, avoid avoid avoid!
1. How old are you? If I were a parent, I wouldn't let my son get an AEG until he showed enough maturity that he could safely operate a REAL firearm. If you aren't old enough, wait, be mature, DON'T ARGUE, and find other options until then.
2. Be responsible with what you own already, quietly demonstrating it. Don't get offended, but I am going to assume that your responsibility level is low, just for the sake of the question and the answer. If you don't have enough responsibility, then you need to change your maturity level; do your homework when told, do the chores when told, do extra, then do some more. Don't argue, don't bicker, etc. Owning an AEG is a larger responsibility than you think. You can easily mistake an AEG for a REAL firearm, and if you are doing something you shouldn't with it, like flashing it to your friends, in public, in front of those who might not immediately spot the difference, you could either end up in huge trouble OR injured, if not DEAD. (I say that dead seriously!)
3. Maybe your parents don't have the moola to fork out for it. Maybe they think they are gonna finance it. Don't expect your parents to fork out the cash for that. They have bills to pay, bread to buy, and gas tanks to fill.
4. If you already know this, and are bored, then get used to it. I am really long winded.
5. Show your parents that YOU will have all the cash for it, that YOU will pay for it, 100%, including shipping, biling costs, whatever, that YOU will not go into debt for it, etc.
6. If all of the above don't work, then I don't know what to tell you, other than sorry, I tried, and start looking for other alternatives. Maybe your parents will let you get a springer rather than an AEG, or a gas blowback rather than an AEG.
Good Luck!
For an NBB, it's alright. However, if you want a decent shooting pistol, NBB, and about the same price, go with the Cybergun Smith and Wesson M&P40. I like it, shoots just fine, and isn't terribly expensive. crazyNCman sells them on MilSpec too, if you want to get that.
Define inexpensive. I haven't seen any 'support' style weapons for less than$250, unless they are custom made.
If you want a cheaper style, you can take a G36 and add a C-magazine to it to have a support weapon. Probably, at the cheapest, you could get 175 for it all, C-mag, AEG, and maybe a 9.6 if you play your cards right.
OR you could dump some money into an A&K M249, but those will run you upwards of $300 (don't quote me on that though.)
Save Phace Series. Definite MUST! They also allow a better cheek weld so you can sight down the barrel of your gun.
Or you could just use the shaving cream Idea like I just suggested to your last quiery.
Goggles, specifically paintball goggles, almost always fog up under regular conditions. To be honest, there is no one stop solution that will not fog up your goggles. It just sucks. However, there are a few home remedies that can fix fogging. Dead serious when I say this, but spreading a layer of shaving cream on your goggles, then wiping off the excess, will prevent your goggles from fogging. Works for me, at least.
The best built in solution is to get a goggle with a fan in it. You can purchase one with a series of fans built in, or if you are more of a DIY sort of person, go to a computer store, purchase a set of small computer fans, and solder a circuit together over your goggles. I've seen it done, and it works just as great as purchasing gogs with fans built in to them.
To be honest, ROF and FPS are often at odds with each other, so pick one or the other. My choice would be FPS, so you have a flatter shooting, more power at range setup.
Upgrade to at least an m120 spring, or so you are chronoing at 400 FPS. No more, no less. Then a tightbore barrel, 6.04 recommended, a more solid hop up system (nub, bucking, casing) and a high torque motor to increase trigger response on semi automatic.
Having no experience with this gun, personally, I would say yes, that battery will burn up the motor. It's not the gearbox that you need to worry about, it's the motor and the wiring system, and oftentimes in lower class clones, the wiring is the worst internal that comes with it, metal gears or no.
Stick with a 9.6 if you dare. And if you can't hit your target with 1 BB, you most certainly can't hit him with 30.
Meh, they are so so. Depends on how you use it. If you move around a lot, like most airsofters do, then it won't do you any good, since looking like a bush is only effective if the bush isn't moving.
Dude, be patient! You just asked the question 5 hours ago! Its a Sunday Night, people may want to research the problem, and you can't expect results in 5 hours, at least not quality ones. I will report this question and take a look at your other one.
He might have broken the selector plate on the inside of the gearbox, either by shorting the semi auto segment out OR fusing the segments together. In either case, that was a dumb idea. In between the selector plate segments there is a brief amount of space where there is no contact. By holding down on the trigger and switching modes of fire, he may have arced the selector switch, either fusing it together or shorting it out. Your description is difficult to diagnose without seeing, hearing, or feeling the issue. It might be in your best interest to take your problem to a local airsoft technician and have them diagnose the problem.
OR he simply broke the selector switch somehow, and the lever connecting the exterior selector switch to the internal selector plate are not touching enough to move the internal selector plate.
It's hard to diagnose your problem. Especially over the internet. This is just an absolute, complete guess, AS WILL OTHER PEOPLE'S SUGGESTIONS. Like I was saying, take it to a proshop, have them look at it, and that will be your safest way out. Otherwise, if you feel like you can fix the problem yourself, read up some information on how to disassemble your replica, (video tutorial would be best so your chance of mistake goes down), and examine the inner workings of the gun. You do run the risk of screwing your gun over should you make a mistake or can't figure out how to reassemble it.
Um, what mass of BB are you using? I think the G&G extreme only fires around 400 with the .2 gram BB. I don't think there is a single airsoft gun that shoots that hard with the .2 gram BB. If you didn't know and are shooting .12 gram, you will ruin your gun.
Even if you are shooting .2, I would say no, definitely. 350 is right about the limit for any CQC field that I've heard of.
What voltage of battery are you using? It's not the fuse, it's most likely the battery that is screwing you over. The batteries that come with clones are notorious for problems, and you probably got a dud. OR, if you are using a LiPo battery, stop using the LiPo, since lower end guns can't handle them.
DON'T BYPASS THE FUSE. The fuse helps prevent the circuit from receiving too much voltage and frying your motor, gearbox, etc.
In response to tylerflow, why wouldn't you have a pistol!? A solid pistol is a great alternative to using your carbine in close quarters. Most clones shoot way too hot for CQC, and I don't want to be hit by a gun shooting 400+ feet per second from ten feet away... in the teeth. A pistol will allow you to switch weapons quickly, and eliminate targets at close range. A carbine, albeit short, will not allow you the greatest speed when rounding a corner and having to eliminate targets. Pistols are far easier to handle, allowing for one handed use while keeping the other hand free to control your primary, reload, open doors, etc. A solid handgun is, what I like to call, "The Perfect OH S*** Weapon". If your primary goes down, for whatever reason, what's your option? If it's a jam, I always get my pistol ready for use, then clean out the jam, because whenever my primary goes down, crap happens; I am attacked, surprised, or otherwise. Besides, Gas pistols have a better semiautomatic option to AEGs. I find that AEG semi auto sucks unless you upgrade; sluggish trigger to fire response, even worse when you want to let loose a double tap or hammer.
I still recommend upgrading your M4 above getting a sidearm, starting with a new hop up, hop up nub, bucking, and tightbore barrel (easiest upgrades) then moving to the gearbox with either a high torque or high speed motor (whichever way you want to go), then externals, maybe a Magpul AFG (a great foregrip) followed by a solid Holo sight (scopes for airsoft are overrated). THEN I say get a sidearm.
I would say yes, it would be an excellent sniper rifle, but there are better choices for a better price. Shorty USA said this about it,
The mechanics of the rifle are pretty much identical to the competing UTG MK96 and can even use the same magazines. However, we did find that the action of the bolt on this rifle was noticeable smoother and more precise. The performance characteristics of the two rifles are also very similar with the Pro-Tactical having only slightly less power than that of the MK96. Although the effective range of Pro-Tactical averaged only a few feet short of its rival so they are certainly in the same class. You’ll also find that this rifle is noticeably quieter with a softer report verses the sharper crack of the MK96 making it better suited for stealth and concealment.
Having never held this gun or even seen one, it would be difficult to say over the internet, but based on that information, I would say you could save more money on better replicas. It still would be an excellent choice, and if you like that model of firearm, go for it.
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
KJW makes a great Glock 23 (or 32, can't figure out which designation it is) for $110, or if the Glock isn't your thing, then I would recommend a 1911 over $100. Avoid AEPs, or Automatic Electric Pistols, which oftentimes have low power and not enough gumption to cause a positive hit at 60 feet.
If you are looking for a springer, (which are decent, no matter what everyone else will tell you) for simple backyard airsofting, I would recommend the Crosman p99, or whatever they call it. I've had positive experiences with it, but don't expect super power.
I might also recommend the Umarex P99 DAO, which is a great CO2 gun for the price. It's great for woods, but shoots way too hot for CQC, but will not hurt your wallet at around $60-$80 a pop, not including CO2 refills.
Your question isn't very specific, so I will assume you don't know what you want. My advice is to find a gun that you really like in real life. Go to gun stores, ask to handle real steel firearms, (if you are younger than 18 get an adult to come with you) and find which one fits your hand and feels like an extension of your arm. If it's a 1911, then get one of those, if it's a glock, then get a glock. If you like the feel of a Sig Sauer P226 against your palm, then that is the gun for you. I personally feel that the Walther P99 fits my hand better than any other gun out there, simply because I can handle it better and it feels more natural than other guns in my palm. Other people are partial to Glocks for the same reason, but I can't stand the blockiness of it. I like single stack Colt 1911s, but a double stack Colt 1911 just throws my aim off.
If you pick the right gun, not necessarily the popular one, you will find you are more accurate on the draw than everyone else, more comfortable for longer periods of time, and find that you love and maintain your gun better than anyone else out there.
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
First off, don't post answers like a forum. This is not a forum. If you want to get more specific answers, either wait or go to a forum. My recommendation is www.theairsoftsolder.com, which was started and is maintained by crazyNCman, the guy who brought you this site.
To answer your question, it's like asking which is the best sports car. There is no best sports car, as everyone has differing opinions and tastes. there are a few good ones, and few okay ones, and a majority of poor options when you look at CO2 guns.
If I might make a suggestion, and that is that you consider propane and a propane to green gas adapter? They are cheap (~$15), allow for a wider range of guns (and better quality, if you ask me), and is cheaper than even CO2 in the long run. If you take my suggestion, don't spend less than $100 on a Gas Blow Back, and no less than $60 on a Non Blow Back, simply because most guns under those price ranges in their respective categories suck.
As well, find something that fits your hand. Sample real steel guns and find one that feels comfortable, and that airsoft version of that particular model of gun will be a better performing gun to you than any other.
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
Avoid the H&K G36c. It's a nice concept, but rather pointless, as a simple semi-automatic setting would suffice far better. The gun itself is not worth it's weight or money paid for it, and a piece of junk that stores should be ashamed to sell. The very fact that it's made by H&K makes it all the more horribly shameful. Shame on H&K for making such a piece of garbage! Shoddy exteriors, shoddy interiors, a shoddy electric system all add up to one expensive, shoddy gun. JG probably makes the finest G36C for the sub $150 price range. Definately a great buy.
Depending on the brand of P90, I would say yes. Avoid the Well P90, as it's a cheap LPEG copy that won't last a month (believe me, i've been there). I would highly recommend purchasing any P90 AEG that is listed at more than $110 on major airsoft retailers, otherwise you are just purchasing garbage. Good P90s = JG, KS (who have a red dot integrated into the rail system), Echo 1, and Classic Army (if you want CQC).
No, but I would highly recommend keeping track of the one you have so you don't loose it. The best idea that I have so you don't loose it is to spray paint your vital pieces (the ones that might go flying often) bright florescent orange. This way, people can't go around and pick them up and claim them as their own, AND they are easier to find. You might also want to check into getting glow in the dark florescent paint, so it's visible at day and at night.
Don't forget to choose the best answer.
Only use 100% Silicon Oil ( I use PyrOil, which is found at Napa and other auto parts store) to clean and lube your barrel, hop up, and other non constant moving parts. If you have a part that moves constantly, such as a gear in the gearbox, use gear grease.
For normal maintenance , silicon oil is great.
Depends on the gun. They do make high quality guns build wise, but performance wise, they fall short of higher standards set by lower quality companies, with some exceptions. Their gas L96 sniper rifle is one of the finer gas rifles made, with exacting specifications and dadgum great performance at range.
Their SCAR-L is a different story. According to one review done by AATV, comparing four different SCARs (DBoys, Classic Army, VFC, and Ares/STAR) the Ares SCAR fell short, though did have an included grenade launcher.
As a real steel manufacturer, they produce some of the finest firearms in the world.
In airsoft, they slap their name on a cheap china product and hope to call it good. Bad call, H&K. Most of the H&K guns that are "H&K" and not just licensed by them are crap.
First, you must recite the secret ancient incantation "OOMBA OOMBA LIKI TEE. PLEASE OH PLEASE SET MY HOP UP FOR ME!"
Second, you must wave your magic wand (you don't have one? Just tap your ruby slippers) and say Bippity Boppity BOO!
Obviously, the first one was fake. The second is a little exaggerated, but in short, this is how it's done.
1. Load your magazine. Go out and find a reasonable target at engagement range. Say 100 to 120 feet away.
2. Disengage your hop up completely. Totally, all the way off.
3. Fire three shots, and track the trajectory. Most likely, they are dropping at about 75 feet, which is unacceptable for an AEG.
4. Increase your hop up slightly, (NOT MUCH AT ALL), then repeat step three. You should be getting more range with each slight turn.
5. Your "Sweet Spot" is right where the BBs are flying straight and level, and not pulling up and settling down. Your BBs should almost float past 120 feet. If you feel like you can't quite hit your sweet spot, like the BBs are just either too high or too low with your hop up, use a heavier mass BB, like .23, .24, or even .25 if you feel ambitious.
Too much hop=too much rise
Too little hop= too much drop
Just right hop=float like a butterfly, sting like a bee. Literally!!!
Don't forget to choose the best answer.
Define reasonable price. Because honestly, stay away from the RAP4 or Madbull grenades. A complete waste of time and money.
Otherwise, the current top of the line grenade is definitely the Airsoft Innovations Tornado Grenade, which fires upwards of 200 BBs, is reusable, gas powered, and encased in a high density polymer exterior which (as far as I know) has not broken or had severe problems. They also have three different kits that you can purchase to change how the grenade behaves. The standard kit is a simple pin in the top and allows you to change the timing of the grenade, while you can purchase either the spoon kit so you have a more realistic usage, or you can get the impact kit which causes the grenade to go off on impact. They've got it down so it can go off at a one inch drop. Very sensitive! However, this is the most expensive mainstream grenade on the market, topping out at a whopping $100 average on most retailers.
However, there are other options. The first being the CIDASoft Airsoft Grenade, which uses the old baking soda and citric acid trick to detonate a weak plastic container in a violent manner, causing BBs to spray in every which direction. Price for the base set was like $35 (don't quote me on that) on major retailers.
Second, you have the Hakkotsu grenade, which is more of a sonic grenade than fragmentation. 150 Decibels of sound to deafen your opponents, can't be beat for $39 on MilspecAirsoft.com for your base setup. Unfortunately, there is no practical way to use it as a fragmentation grenade, though I have heard of people stuffing BBs down into the outer plastic chamber. Maybe it will work?
Third, there is the old standby. The James BOOM grenade, but I couldn't tell you much about it. Here's a link to where it's sold on Milspec Airsoft
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/airsoft-guns/grenades-mines/vfc-james-boom-grenade.html
Don't forget to select the best answer!
I had a similar problem with my ol' Thompson M1A1 variant, which is essentially the same gun. If you might note, there is a small amount of space between the magazine feed well and the hop up feed well, in which the small piece on top of the magazine, (the triangular one that prevents the gun from continuously feeding while not shooting) doesn't move quite out of the way when inserted into the gun.
Now, when the spring is fully wound, it has enough tension in order to push past that little triangular piece (whatever it's called). However, as the spring winds down, even a little, it no longer has the tension to push past that piece, causing your BBs to not feed into the gun. My solution was simple;
Push up on the magazine while firing. Give that a shot, and if it doesn't work, then you might have a magazine problem. Try winding the magazine several more times, until you hear that infamous 'double clicking' noise, that those stupid little wind up cars make when you pull them back too far (by the way, they operate on the same principle as the high-cap magazine.)
If that doesn't work, then you definately either have a magazine issue or you have a hop up issue. Worst case scenario it's a hop up issue, as the feed well is misaligned and you need to get that realigned. If you have a tech nearby, talk to him, he probably can help.
At best, you just aren't winding the magazine enough.
AND don't forget to choose the best answer.
CYMA makes a great Budget AK47, arguably one of the best budget guns, the CM.028 for about $110 on major retailing sites like ASGI or Airsplat. Highly recommended because it has full metal gears, gearbox, metal upper receiver, polymer lower receiver, plastic hand guard and plastic stock, and a decent out-of-the-box FPS. Definately a good buy.
If not, and you want something more high-end, then Echo 1 makes a decent AK47 or variant (like the AK74, AK74UN) for around 150-180 bucks. About the same, but more reliable as Echo 1 has a warranty with their products (if it's purchased through ASGI).
You can get a good M4 for under 200 that doesn't need to be upgraded. Echo 1, DBoys, JG, and Classic Army all make reasonable M4s for under 200, have a full metal gearbox, metal upper receiver, polymer lower receiver, plastic furnishings, and great FPS. Few people have problems with 'em.
Don't forget the best answer.
Oh, one of those dadgum stupids?
Take an awl, (or other thin, hard, and pointy object) and a small hammer, and tap it out. But be sure that it's the right pin, and that it can go back in, otherwise, you are going to be in a world of pain and agony
I am not entirely sure on this, but I've used this tactic before. Beware, and use common sense. And don't take my word for it. I can't see what you are seeing.
If you want better range, a tightbore won't get you better range. It will get you better groupings of BBs AT range, but not noticeably better range.
Upgrading the hop up is another great idea. Upgrading the stock bucking to a hard bucking (for 400+ FPS), or a soft bucking (-400 FPS) is a great way to get more consistant shots. Also consider upgrading your stock hop up nub to an H nub.
H nubs provide two points of contact on the BB when the BB strikes the bucking, thereby increasing stability with each shot. Your stock bucking probably provides only 1 point of contact, allowing your BB to be hopped to one side or the other.
Another consideration is upgrading your stock hop up casing to a metal one. Metal is almost always better than plastic, but I am not totally sure on this one. Do a little research before you take my word for it.
Use high quality BBs with every shot. Cheaper BBs are like cheap ammunition for real guns; there is a lack of consistency with each and every shot. You don't use low quality ammunition with high quality guns, because there is a higher chance that the cheap ammo will jam and ruin your gun.
Just remember, for better performance, there is always a cost of spending more cash. Don't be cheap and buy crap upgrades. I am not saying be frivelous with your dough, but be frugal. Buy the best bang for your buck, not the uber high-quality-sooper-name-brand-stuff because oftentimes, the good stuff is just as good or better than the aforementioned high quality stuff.
Don't forget to choose the best answer.
First, kudos to you for posting a picture! I am definitely thumbing this one up for that.
Second, and the matter at hand, that might be a bit of a problem, assuming you are talking about the RIS rail knob and not the MOA cover (then you would be SOL, to throw in another acronym XD)
I would say to look online, but that might prove a waste of time. Try going to Walmart, Big 5, or another cheapo sporting goods store, purchase a cheap laser dot with the RIS rail attachment, or other cheap RIS rail attachment, and remove the knob from the RIS plate. AND you get another attachment for your gun that you might be able to mod.
OR you could run down to ACE, Lowes, or Home Depot and grab a proportionate diameter sized screw with nut and use that. Wouldn't be as flawless looking but definately cheaper. Don't forget to bring the other RIS knob with you to judge it.
Don't forget to pick the best answer.
I dont know the gun personally, so anyone who doesn't own the gun can't really judge, but in my best knowledge and experience, putting a higher voltage battery in the gun puts more wear and tear on the internals. You wear them out faster, and though it probably can take the extra strain, they won't last nearly as long.
I personally don't like high ROF guns. They are a bit of a waste; why hit a guy 45 times in two seconds when you can hit him once in less than a second? ROF is for people who can't hit the broadside of a barn.
Well, it probably will be longer than the end of the barrel, but that's nothing a hacksaw can't fix... ;)
NO, just joking DON'T USE A HACKSAW!. You'll ruin the crowning of the inner barrel. If it's just twenty millimeters, I would just get a flashhider to screw onto the end. If it's longer than the flashhider, get a stubby silencer.
Yes, you can put a 12 volt battery, but you gotta remember, the faster those gears turn, the hotter they get, the more likely a chance that you will break something. It's like driving your Suzuki Swift 160MPH on the highway all the time. Sure, it can do it, but it's not good for it. Drive it at slower speeds, like 60, and you get great highway mileage (like, 40+, and it's not a hybrid!! BEAT THAT PRIUS!!)
In short, use appropriately sized batteries on your stock guns, upgrade them, and then you can upgrade your battery.
I would say a stock middle class AEG (like a DBoys, Echo 1, JG, etc) can handle a 9.6 with no sweat, while a 10.8 might break something, if you can fit it in the body. Higher quality guns probably can handle higher voltages with no problem.
Stick to white. It's the most common BB color, you can see it reasonably well in all conditions, (except in snow XD) and at the speeds the M28 is firing at, the white is going to be a blur. If you are intent on getting something different colored, black is the next most viable option. I don't see what the big deal is though. If you hit 'em, you hit 'em. Don't matter what color it is you hit 'em with. Unless of course it's rainbow...
UNACCEPTABLE!!
Don't forget to choose the best answer.
I don't know much about civilian radios, but from my experience, the more you spend on radios, the better off they are going to be; the greater transmission range, the more weatherproof and hardy they are, less susceptible to damage when dropped or impacted.
I would definately shop Radioshack, they seem to offer a great radio for a reasonable price. If not, try Motorola, who make military/SAR grade stuff (I know because I use Motorola radios out on SAR missions). Johnson is another great brand, but they are spendier.
$30 is a somewhat small budget; ask yourself if you would be willing to pay $30 for a radio and hope that you won't break it due to the normal wear and tear, or pay $60 for a radio and know that you will not have to replace it for another year or two. Its a serious query, and every buyer must ask himself this. I dunno, maybe a $30 dollar radio is great for you and your team, or maybe you need to invest in the $60 dollar radio. All depends on how well you treat them.
No, the gun just won't fire 4.5mm BBs. It's like trying to shoot a sewing needle out a straw; too much air escapes around the sides of the needle for it to accelerate to high enough speeds. Simple physics dude.
I don't know. I am not you.
Here's my idea. If you are a CQC sniper, meaning you play in CQC scenarios more than you do outdoors, I would definitely go for a MK5 variant, due to it's rapid fire and small size. OR, if you are a woodland sniper, meaning you play more in woodland fields, then I would recommend a pistol of some kind; a 1911, Glock 18 (if you can find one), or a H&K USP, due to their smaller size (smaller than the MK5, anyway) and higher accuracy.
But honestly, don't take our word for it. Go down to your local proshop, or if you don't have one, go to a friend, and try out their pistols. Feel, hold, and ask questions about them. That's the best way to find a great sidearm that fits YOU, not a sidearm that fits everyone else.
I've had friends tell me to get an M4 because they are great, but every time I hold one, I don't like how it comes into my shoulder. My style doesn't allow me a great deal of comfort or personal taste with an M4. However, when I hold a SCAR against my shoulder, I feel far more comfortable with it than I do an M4. It feels like an extension of my body, just like it should be. In your case, the pistol should feel like an extension of your arm. It should feel well in the hand, (you shouldn't notice it there), the trigger pull should be easy to you and not be awkward. When you line up the sights it should feel natural, like you are simply pointing your finger.
ACKH! Stay away from ANY WELL AEG!! Especially the sub-$100 range. Substandard parts, poor worksmanship, and shoddy externals all add up to poor gun choice. If you are looking for the standard newbie gun, I would definitely go for the CYMA CM.028. IMHO, it's the standard newbie gun; good externals, good internals, very patient and loving, and isn't hard to handle. $110 on most sites, though you might be able to find one cheaper.
Again, don't buy any AEG that is sub-$100. It's a terrible idea.
In the military, you often earn your nickname through a specific act that defines you, or in training by your instructor.
In airsoft, far too often is your callsign made up by the person who gets it. My opinion of the matter? Either works, but only when your callsign is given to you does it stick. I recently earned a new one, due to the fact that no one could remember my current call sign, and that everyone was mispronouncing my last name. So they all decided to call me 'RENO'. And it stuck.
OOOKAY, since we see this one a lot, here is my opinion of the whole thing. And I hate P.E.Q. boxes too. Ugly little parasites that shoot lazerz at dah enemeez!
There is no sub-$100 that is going to work well for a beginner. It's the sad and hard truth. But take it with a spoonful of sugar. Here is my advice: save $25 bucks more and you could have a decent starter AEG.
#1: The CYMA CM.028 is an excellent starter gun, and, in my opinion, THE standard gun for newbies. It's a beat me up, take care of me, and I'll stick around sort of gun. Ironically, it's an AK-47.
#2: The CYMA or Cybergun Licenced Thompson M1A1 is a great starter too, which is what I started with. I used that thing for more than a year before I moved on to something nicer. It's a beastly gun, shooting right about 390 FPS out of the box. Another fabulous gun! Though it's spendier at about $150 on sale, (I got mine at Big 5 XP)
#3: I've seen a lot of people suggest the G&G Plastica series M4s, but they are spendier. G&G makes fabulous guns for the price; if you have the money, I would suggest one of those.
If you take care of nearly ANY AEG over $125 then you are solid! However, beware the WELL brand and the Both Elephant (BE) brand. I dislike WELL due to it's poor internals, and BE is a joke.
I recommend not getting anything over $200 for your first gun; it's a time to explore and get accustomed to the feel of airsoft, not just buy the nicest stuff available. I see too many people get the nicest thing right off the shelf, on a suggestion from a friend, they use it four times, decide they don't like airsofting as much as they thought they would, and they sell their gun on Craigslist for less than half of what they bought it for. OH, if you are looking for USED guns, check craigslist. I find cheap guns on there all the time. And don't be afraid to haggle for 'em. A lot of times, people will post them on Craigslist, wait a week, get impatient or desperate, and are far more willing to drop the price. But you must beware, people are people, and they may not necessarily sell you a well-taken care of gun. Duct-tape, superglue, and stupidity are a bad combination for those who don't know what they are doing. Avoid any guns that have been 'personally upgraded.' Seek out the ones that are 'professionally upgraded' (be sure to ask them for the name of the technician and the store it was done at).
I hope this helps, and feel free to send me a message.
Don't forget the best answer!!
Normally, when you order, they give you a courtesy code for when the next time you shop. HOWEVER, if you want to cheat a little...
www.retailmenot.com
Fabulous website for online coupon codes, and has a TON of different airsoft websites on there, with different codes.
Don't forget to select the best answer!
If you are buying for someone else, I would get the KJW Glock 23c. Great performing gas blowback for the price. $109.99 at Airsplat.
If you don't want to spend nearly so much, go with the Walther P99 DAO GBB. $62.99
http://www.pyramydair.com/p/Walther-P99-Blowback-CO2-airsoft-pistol.shtml
JOSHairsoftlover8, don't post an answer as a response. Just post it as an edit; go into your profile, go to My Questions, find your question, and click 'edit question'. Just as an FYI
And to answer your question, I would say that it's 14mm CCW thread. And, as Firecat stated, it's not a silencer, it's a mock suppressor. Silencers are outlawed by the ATF.
Dude, your friends don't seem to know much about airsofting...
My suggestion is you should get it if you need it. If you need to carry extra magazines, ammunition, water, etc, into the field with you, then do it, but if you don't, like if you mostly backyard airsoft rather than milsimulate, then I would recommend against it. But if you feel there is a need for it, then go for it. Don't let your friends tell you what's cool and what's not.
Don't follow the herd, because the herd is often led by whoever can shout or talk the loudest.
As for what you should get, I like to get vests for field games, (more space, more customization options) and a chest rig for CQC games (smaller, less weight, larger pouches)
High speed gears are specially made to withstand the stress of constant movement resulting from a higher voltage battery due to a desire for a higher ROF. So yes to your second question.
If you are strictly looking to make your gun a sooper-spray 'n pray-shoota, not caring anything about your gun, then just upgrade your battery. I promise you will pay more in the future if you won't upgrade your gearbox.
When you upgrade your gun, you can't just upgrade the battery, because it puts a lot more wear on the stock gears, motor, electrical wiring, etc, a lot more than they were designed for (normally). Unless you have a higher quality gun, like a Classic Army or Tokyo Marui, I recommend upgrading your gearbox before drastically upgrading your battery.
In the short term, it will be spendier, but in the long term, you will have a gun that will last without problems.
There is no one solution most accurate AEG stock out of the box. You pretty much have to upgrade the AEG to make it more accurate. HOWEVER, you can upgrade most AEGs pretty cheaply to make them shoot quite well. I recently upgraded my stock Classic Army SL8 with a new tightbore barrel, spring, piston head, tappet plate, spring guide, and it shoots very hard, very flat, very accurately; and it was a reasonably accurate gun out to 125 feet out of the box. Now I am hitting out to 200 feet with reasonable accuracy, and at 160 feet (that is measured, not just some random guess) I am deadly accurate.
If you are looking for a stock gun that you can upgrade to make accurate, Tokyo Marui makes the standard that all guns are compared to. Classic Army, G&G, KWA, STAR, and Ares make fabulous guns, but are on the pricey side. If you are on a budget, Classic Army, G&G, high end Echo 1 or high end JG, high end AGM are brilliant and easy to upgrade.
Acres, not achers.
Anywho, you have to get a business license to do it properly. Then, in order to protect your business, you have to get insurance, which is expensive. I would say yes, but it's REALLY expensive.
To be honest, get a gas pistol. CO2 doesn't come with lubricant in the tank, and the dry, rapid, and cold expansion of the gas wears out your internals REALLY fast.
However, don't get sucked into the green gas vs. propane argument. Propane IS green gas without silicon oil in the mixture, (there was a study conducted, shown at Arnies Airsoft). So if you want to be cheap, buy a propane adaptor (airsoft innovations makes one for $20) and you only spend, like, $3 a bottle for propane, versus $10+ on a 'green gas' bottle.
The G&G F2000 is definately the most impressive airsoft gun that I have come across recently. With the ability to change the FPS of the gun with a few turns of a screwdriver, you can go from woods to CQC in a matter of minutes. Very nice build quality (as G&G always does) and I haven't read any complaints about it yet.
The JG or Echo 1 P90 is definately the next best thing. TINY, ultra portable, and accurate, this is definately a great choice for woods. However, for CQC, it shoots way too hot, at about 350-390 FPS.
I don't like the look of 'em, but the JG Steyr AUG is a relatively interesting rifle. It's got the bullpup design, is affordable, but shoots too hard for CQC. And I don't like that double trigger thing. It's obnoxious.
Finally, you have the L85. I don't recall any companies that make an l85 for cheap, so I would avoid looking for one. Besides, they are butt ugly, and, after holding one, definately don't want to lug that thing around for longer than five minutes. But that is a personal opinion.
What, you don't have any? How pathetic!! JK ROTFL
Anywho, I was out with my squad, hunting down the other team. I was walking middle, my friend was on point, and he spotted the other team. We broke formation, and began to spread out in a skirmish line. I ended up walking farther out than expected. My team was soon bogged down in the firefight. I ended up flanking way out, ending up behind the other team. Remaining ruthlessly silent (dadgum, I love my adjectives!) I managed to barrel tap three people out before I was mercilessly gunned down at darn near point blank range by a newbie.
Another time I was out, escorting the president to the extraction zone, when, out of the blue, an opposing force stepped out into the open, staring like a deer in headlights. As I started to dive right, he managed to send a burst of automatic fire in my general direction, barely missing me. I rolled, switched my weapon to automatic, charged his position, and gunned him down before he could move three more feet.
Finally, this last time, it was me, and two other people assaulting the fortress. Inside the "fortress" (a barn) was three people, all with superior weapons to our own. We began a long and arduous task of attempting to draw them out, but to no avail, and only succeeding in losing two of our teammates in crossfire. The other team, sensing victory, began to taunt us. Myself and my lone remaining teammate decided to suicide in hopes of getting at least a few of them. To our astonishment, our entry into the barn was near unhindered, and we charged our opponents from behind. Their astonished faces were instantly marred by the waves of rolling thunder that we unleashed from the jaws of hell itself. I ripped out a jawbone of a nearby Zombie, and thus used it to wreak untold fathoms of havoc upon the demonic forces that I faced. Thousands fell before my all consuming Chuck Norris-like wrath, and my bloodlust was only quenched when, finally, I kicked the final player down a well shouting something that must have sounded like "THIS IS SPARTA!"
Okay, obviously the first part was fake. But is that epic enough for you?
I don't like fanboyism, but I gotta admit, I like crazyNCman.
But, I dunno. Crap BBs can cause a huge difference in accuracy. Or it could be that one person can't hold it right, or another isn't being truthful, or someone screwed the pooch, didn't measure it out accurately, I don't know. I think crazyNCman is going to be a better reference right now, because Evike seems to be more of a business rather than someone who cares about airsofting.
Meh, I find this to be a debateable point.
Most 'conventional' airsofters will say no. Don't reuse shot BBs. They are dirty, chipped, or otherwise unfit for duty. I, (unconventionally), say judge the BB. I don't recommend picking up dirty BBs on the field. Shot BBs will collect dirt and other debris which will deposit in your gun. If the round is clean, not having sat out for one or more days, then I would say fine, as long as there is nothing clinging to it. Here's my criteria for picking up used BBs.
1. It must be resting on the ground, not buried in it.
2. It must have not sat out for more than 1 day. Anything past that and the elements have gotten to it.
3. IT MUST NOT BE A BIO BB. Bio BBs are designed to be thrown away.
4. It must not have clingers, or anything that clings to the BB.
5. It must not have chips
These are the Five Commandments regarding Used BBs. Obey and honor them, and your AEGs will love you. Refuse these rules, and your AEGs will die.
G&G seems to have better externals, while ICS has far better internals. You also have to remember where they are produced;
G&G = China
ICS = Taiwan
Either one is a solid choice. Both would serve you well; I guess the biggest question would be what your role is. Do you do CQB, or a field gun?
CQB = ICS MP5
Field = G&G M14
I highly recommend saving your cash. AEGs under 100 are notorious for not lasting longer than a few skirmishes. Even the low quality Crosmans are over 50.
I would recommend getting a TSD or a DE Tri-Shot shotgun. They are cheap, solid, and powerful.
Well, you ask a very interesting question. Here's my opinion of it.
My brother, who I take airsofting, is nine years old. A kind of rarity, because he has a passion for it, I want to include him, and I believe he is mature enough to play. But that is a special case. Most nine year olds I see are not ready to play. The maturity level is not high enough. Here is what I would do.
First, how old are you? Are you old enough that you can mentor him, take him under your wing? That is what I would do. Be the friend, the teacher, the mentor.
Second, are you mature enough? And be honest with yourself. Do you argue with the calls, are you honest and honorable? If so, then be the mentor. If not, I would recommend him to someone who may be a better example.
Third, will he learn? Is he willing to learn? If not, then don't.
Don't forget to select the best answer
Holy crap, they are different!!!
I think that they are the same gun, but the tan version, being a more popular color, is more expensive. I think that ASGI thinks that the tan version will sell more, so they raise the price to increase their profit margin.
As for the difference in reviews, I would just combine the review rating. One scores a 5/5, the other a 4/5, so you get a 4.5/5
Hmmm...
Try the Save Phace face masks. They are solid, well built, and you can have a better cheek weld to the stock of your replica than with a full paintball mask. They are really comfortable too.
www.savephace.com
Good Luck
Mmmm... you've got a hard situation to handle.
The Crosman's muzzle velocity is way too hot for cqc. I would avoid using it. Your M249 Para might shoot too hot too. I might just use the CAW, but I don't think you have enough rounds to last you a whole game, unless you stop to reload every ten shots, which is a waste. If you can use your M249, use that, ONLY! Take off the 'nade launcher, you don't want that much extra weight. Lose as much extra weight as you can. For CQC, you need to be light, fast, and agile, and your current setup is too heavy. Even if you are used to the weight, everyone will react and move faster than you are capable with all that heavy weaponry. If you ditch all the extra stuff, then you will be the faster one, since your body is trained to move harder with weight. It's like weight lifting. If you lift fifty pound barbels for three weeks, then switch to something lighter for two days, it becomes a cinch! I think you might be a devil with that if you take my advice.
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER USE 6mm Paintballs in any airsoft gun. If you want to kill your airsoft gun in thirty seconds, then you can do it with the paintballs.
The problem with the 6mm paintballs is that they are too gelatinous for use in an airsoft gun. Too much slamming around (in the magazine, the feed tube, the hop up, etc).
Well, does a Snicker's taste better than a Twix? Depends on who is tasting.
All that matters is the skill level of each player. A good 'sniper' will hide and be stealthy and nearly undetectable, and always be able to pick off infantry at will. On the other hand, a good infantryman will be lightning fast, thunderously deadly, and atrociously vicious.
Saying that a sniper can beat an infantryman is a foolish statement. It implies that ANY sniper can beat an infantryman, regardless of skill level. Yet not every infantryman can beat a sniper by running around with his head cut off.
The last two people have said it quite well, but here is my two-cents.
If you are absolutely insistent on DIY, then here is my advice
Don't snip, bend, or pinch your barrel in any way. If will ruin it. Second, clamp it firmly, (not tightly) to a table, and take a hack saw blade to it. Go slow, don't try to rip through it. Taking your time will allow the hacksaw to operate properly. When you get close to the end, support the end that you are trimming.
My last bit of advice is to put the end that you hacked on the outside, or farthest away from the barrel. You are hacking the right end, aren't you?
Define your question. Are you talking about the gearbox, or the body, of the gun? If you are talking about the body of the gun, then there isn't a massive difference other than weight, ergonomics, and asthetics. Steel makes you feel better and makes it more realistic, while plastic is more economical and easier to use (in my humble opinion). Just remember, steel is much more durable than plastic, so.... yeah.
Now, if it's the gearbox that we are talking about, then there is a huge difference. Plastic gearbox AEGs wear out much faster than metal gearbox AEGs. There is a massive difference in durability. For AEGs, only buy metal gearbox AEGs. Anything that is beyond LPEG (Low Powered Electric Guns; Crosmans, Well, etc) will almost always have a steel gear gearbox.
Don't forget to choose the best answer.
Airsoft is not an actual organized sport, like baseball, cricket, football, or soccer. Therefore, we have no 'championships', only really big scenarios. The largest scenarios, like eXophile said, are Operation Lion Claws, Operation Irene, etc.
There is no monetary award for any scenario (that I have heard of), but oftentimes they have giveaways at the door. Don't forget to choose the best answer.
DBoys, CYMA, G&G, Echo 1, and JG make fabulous guns in that price range. Pick a gun model that you like (M4, AK47, SCAR, P90, whatever) and find the brand that you like, because they will all differ in price, type, FPS, durability, userablility, upgradeability, etc.
Like, keeping the spring compressed? Yes, but it takes a great deal of time. And it would put constant stress on the gearbox. Imagine you had to hold a large crate of dumbbells at arms length for an hour. You would get tired, weaker, right? (Unless you are Chuck Norris). But it would not only put undue stress on your arms, but your whole body. So when you were asked to run a four kilometer race, you wouldn't perform as optimally, right? You would be exhausted.
In conclusion, I would just buy the weaker spring and install it; it could save you from buying another gearbox, gearset, etc.
Unless you buy an aftermarket inner barrel, tightbore specifically, then you won't experience an increase in FPS by simply lengthening the barrel. It's just simple physics, dude. Think about it. By lengthening the barrel of the gun, would that increase the FPS? How?
If you want to increase the FPS of an airsoft gun, you can do it in a few ways.
You can...
1. ...tighten the barrel diameter to decrease the amount of air escaping around the sides of the BB.
2. ...install a tougher spring into the gearbox (requires a new motor and [possibly] new gears.)
Hope that helps, don't forget to select the best answer
I don't claim to know how GBB magazines work, but here are my thoughts.
O-rings are meant to provide tight seals. Because they are soft and rubbery, the o-ring can expand and contract, providing with an airtight seal. Now, your magazine may be holding gas now, but what happens when the pressure decreases? The metal parts will not push against each other with nearly so much force, so the seal will not be nearly as tight, allowing gas to escape. Think of o-rings as the cartilage between bones; if there's no cartilage, then the bones rub against each other, leading to arthritis and osteoporosis. In other words, bad things happen without o-rings, like a broken magazine.
Googled your question, and here is what I found for list of manufacturers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_airsoft_manufacturers
Comparatively, you are asking us to list which fruit is the best tasting, from best to worst. It's impossible to clearly define a top manufacturer as there is no criteria for such judgment. Same with the BB question
Don't forget to select the best answer!
Good grief, you can't buy a sniper!!
But you can buy a sniper 'rifle'. That always peeves people, so just FYI.
Spring Bolt Actions are probably the most popular and favored of sniper rifles, simply because of their reliability, durability, and ease of operation. I would easily recommend any springer bolt action over $100. Beware of the sub-$100, but there are a few decent ones.
I don't have enough experience with gas ones to make a specific comment, but I would stay away from gas sniper rifles, namely because they are harder to maintain, more pricey upfront and over time, and aren't nearly as economical. You can get a spring bolt action to shoot 500 FPS accurately with .25s and heavier, without buying propane or green gas.
One more thing I would like to add; are you going to be a true 'sniper'? Are you going to emulate the tactics, training, and style of play that a real sniper utilizes? If not, then I would definitely change your goal from a sniper rifle to a more DMR style rifle. Designated Marksman are just average joe-shmoe riflemen, but can take more detailed shots on the fly.
The best difference between a DM and a sniper is that a sniper sets up the shots, while the DM takes them as they come. Snipers wait, and wait, and wait, and wait, until the PERFECT shot comes along, then they take it, while DMs see an opportune shot and take it.
My guff with DMs and Snipers. Don't forget to choose the best answer!
OOOH! I hope that you are prepared, because this answer ain't gonna be pretty.
1. The battery (depending on the charger) most likely will not need to charge for 7 hours. If you have a cheap wall charger, (which is the most likely of the cases) check the milliamp output. For example, if your battery is a 1200 mAh battery (mAh = milliamp) and your charger is a 250 mAh output, then you divide the mAh of the battery by the mAh output of the charger, and you should get an approximate charge time, in this case, 4.8 hours.
2. Hop-up pull? What is that? Do you mean the slide hop up? Like you slide one way for more hop up and the other for less? If that's the case, you may have pushed the hop up too high, causing the nub to press the rubber bucking into the barrel too far. That may be one possible cause of the jams.
3. If it isn't the hop up, check the magazine. If the magazine is jamming, then I would either fix it or replace it.
4. Almost all airsoft BBs are 6 millimeters in diameter, with some lower quality BBs being larger or smaller. If you are shooting low quality BBs, then that may be a problem. Don't shoot the paintball BBs either, that will screw your gun for sure!
5. Your airsoft gun should be able to use any 6 millimeter airsoft BB, regardless of mass, (which is what .20g, .23g, .25g, etc is), with nothing more than a drop in FPS when you go higher in mass.
6. Judging from the situation, it is possible that your gearbox is malfunctioning somehow. I don't feel comfortable pronouncing diagnosis over the internet with too little information, so I would recommend checking with a local airsoft technician, if possible. If you don't have one around, you may have to either ship it away to be fixed, or look for another solution online. I would most definately look at www.theairsoftsoldier.com, which was started by crazyNCman (the guy who started this website), and is a place where you can get great technical help for your problems, so long as you can provide accurate enough information.
I wish you the best of luck, and we here at AirsoftAnswers feel for you dude. It sucks to buy something that you think is great only to find out that it doesn't work as well as it should. Seriously hop on over to www.theairsoftsoldier.com, and we might be able to find a detailed solution to your problem. Let's hope that it isn't anything serious, and let's get through it and play!
Good luck!
**armor**
Stay away from Well, in my opinion. My experiences with their products are not fond.
AEGs are great guns, they are (mostly) reliable, accurate, and fun to use. But that's not up to me, but to you.
Well, if you are set on getting a drum magazine for the R76, make sure that it doesn't take Crosman only magazines. Some manufacturers do that to suck you into buying more of their products.
If it doesn't, it will take an RPK-style drum magazine
If you are looking to spend 120 bucks, definately do not buy the R76 at all. I would most definately get something else, like a CYMA Cm.042, or something of that nature. Check the CYMA, DBoys, JG, and Echo1 brands, as these guys get you the best bang for the buck, and are outstandingly user friendly guns.
I think the crosman r76 doesn't have metal gears, no metal gearbox, etc. Unless a gun has steel gears, don't touch it. Plastic gears die or strip out in shorter time spans than steel gears, which last longer. As well, the R76 isn't terribly upgradeable internally, so if you are looking for a gun you can easily upgrade, don't touch this.
Don't forget to choose the best answer.
www.theairsoftsoldier.com
'Tis a great forum, and there is an entire section devoted to gun tech and gun customization. I would go there first, since there are no flamers, no scammers, just people devoted to the sport.
Orange tips are required by law when airsoft guns are sold. However, most manufacturers allow the orange tip to be replaced. So when you receive your gun, just unscrew it, (sometimes the threads are coated with glue, just to discourage you; use a hairdryer to loosen the glue). You can also order after market flash hiders to screw on the end.
Meh, we aren't here to make fun of you, just to help. So don't be worried there (anyone who does is merely insecure)
Here is my take on it; take some silicone oil, give it a little squirt to the wheel (not much!!!) and see if that helps. If not, your wheel may be out of alignment, and I would talk to a more experienced player to see if they know what is going on.
Don't forget to select the best answer.
I used to have a gun that shot about the same, and to be quite frank, it only hurt when I stuck my finger directly in front of the barrel and shot. (I was a newbie to the sport at the time). It didn't even leave a bruise or welt.
170 FPS will not do any serious damage. Even though it may not shoot hard, that is no reason not to wear eye protection. Eyes are sensitive, and can easily be damaged, even by the slowest moving of objects.
So what is your question? You might need to edit your question to be a little more coherent. Are you looking for what internals you can upgrade it with? Well, depending on the gearbox, you can upgrade the gears, the motor, the spring, cylander, piston, piston head, tappet plate, bevel gear, inner barrel, hop up unit, hop up bucking, hop up nub... externals can be anything from AK47 upgrades to RIS rail upgrades. You are only limited by your imagination
Both my CYMA thompson M1A1 and my DBoys SCAR shoot .2s WAY too hard, so I have taken to using .23s because .25s are too heavy and reduce the range. I would definately take .23s over .2s, but I am not so sure with your gun. It wouldn't hurt to buy a small amount of them, 2K, and give 'em a test run. If they work, they work, if they don't, they don't. Don't forget to choose the best answer.
Okay, this is a tough question. So I pose some questions to you.
1. Is the store that you are looking at an 'airsoft' store, or a sporting goods one? If it's an airsoft store, I would shop there because you don't have to pay for shipping. If not, don't take sporting goods stores unless you can get the exact gun that you want for less money than you would online.
2. How new are you to airsoft, and how often do you play? If you play once every three or four months, I would get something nice, but not super expensive. $170 max price. But if you are hell bent on an AEG, do not buy sub $100 range...
Otherwise, if it's a sporting goods store, definately shop online; there are more specialized stores online than in your city (most likely).
Here are some websites I would recommend
1. AirsoftGI
These guys are extremely specialized in their sport, and know what they are talking about. Their guns and equipment tend to be a bit pricy, but their website is easy to follow and their service is great.
2. AirsoftCarolina
Though I have never ordered from these guys before, I would definately recommend them on account of other's reviews. Their prices are great, shipping costs are phenomenal, but unfortunately, their options seem to be kinda few.
3. AirsoftPost (Evike)
These guys are great, but their customer service is somewhat bad and they are almost always out of stock on most of their items. I find their website a little confusing too.
4. Airsplat
I've ordered from these guys a lot (only on account that they are closer to my location than any other store) and their prices are great, but their service is somewhat sloppy and almost every time I order a gun from them, something goes wrong. I ordered one gun and it arrived... two weeks later. The second gun I ordered didn't have a hop-up nub, so I had to ghetto mod it so it would work. My whole opinion on them... a bunch of schmucks who don't know a lot about service to the customer. After my last order, I don't think I will be ordering from them again.
Don't forget to choose the best answer.
If the charger only does NiCds and NiMH, LiPo batts will not recharge, because they are fundamentally different power sources. (wow, maybe HS chemistry isn't a waste of time!)
Lithium Polymer batteries use a different system of charging instead of the NiCds and NiMHs.
So my vote is no, and don't forget to select the best answer!
Hmmm, what do you want to do with it? For just backyard airsoft, it would probably be fine, as long as you lubed it often and took great care of it. I wouldn't use it for more robust skirmishes, and I would definately get the non-clear plastic version of it. For some reason, the clear plastic just doesn't do any gun justice. Avoid any clear plastic airsoft gun, and find a more realistic solid plastic finish.
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
Your question is not very well defined. Economically, Echo 1 wins hands down for superior build quality per dollar, superior accuracy per dollar, etc. However, if you are looking for something more high-quality, definately a Classic Army. CA builds their guns to exacting specifications, is reliable beyond the average-run-of-the-mill airsoft weapon, and can take a pounding; but you pay for it in big dollar signs.
Don't forget to choose the best answer.
Okay, here is the basic stuff you need.
1. Willing People (who can commit to practices)
2. A safe place to practice (whether it's a field or a backyard)
3. The money to upkeep the team (yes it requires money)
Don't forget to select the best answer.
A nunchuck battery is called so because it looks like a real pair of nunchucks. It's like two battery sticks connected by wires in the middle, so if your battery goes down, you can whip out your nunchuck battery and totally go CQC ninja on unsuspecting airsofters.
But seriously, it really does look like a pair of nunchucks. (Don't forget to choose the best answer)
Your hop-up is the problem; I think you asked this general question already. If you need to re-edit your question, go to your profile, select 'My Questions' and select the edit link next to your question.
Check your hop up bucking (the rubber part), the hop up itself (the body and mechanism), the nub (sometimes they bend or break), and the barrel (clean it out.)
Are you using quality BBs? Use TSDs, Matrix, Madbull, or better.
Check your gearbox, to make sure everything is properly aligned and such. Maybe your piston lost some teeth and your piston isn't pulling back all the way. If that is the case, you may have to purchase a new piston.
If you join up on www.theairsoftsoldier.com, you can get tech help from better qualified airsoft experts.
Thanks, and don't forget to choose the best answer.
Which L96 is this? There are multiple airsoft weapon manufacturers, and each one will include different stuff.
Regardless of what brand it is, I would not bother with the stuff that comes with the gun. Oftentimes, the scope is a POS that is tossed in with it to get a cheaper or less quality gun to seem more flashy and appealing. So if you are intent on getting it, that is what I would do. I would jump for an aftermarket scope, as long as the quality wasn't worse off than what I got. My recommendation? Play with your gun for a while without an aftermarket scope, and if you are happy, you saved yourself some bucks.
Depending on what you get, the Classic Army, Tokyo Marui, and the SRC are decent brands. JG makes the best budget one, with Echo 1 coming in a close second.
DBoys is known for a great bang-for-the-buck products, along with CYMA, JG, and Echo 1 (Echo 1 being on the spendier side)
I own a DBoys SCAR, and it's freakin' amazing (though there were some problems with it out of the box, namely not having a nub... easy fix though); solid externals, and decent internals. I have heard that DBoys tends to over lube their gearboxes (it was almost goo-ing out of mine); though that is not a serious problem, it can collect dirt, dust, and debris and potentially cause jams and malfunctions. Just keep it clean, take good care of it, and you should have no problem whatsoever. Any gun will last with the proper amount of TLC given to it.
Higher torque motor should do the job; essentially, when you pull the trigger, it completes a circuit from the battery to the motor, which turns the gears, pulling back the piston, yadda-yadda-yadda. When the spring is too powerful, it puts more strain on the motor and causes the motor to run slower. So by getting a higher torque motor, you decrease response time.
MOSFETs help regulate flow of energy from the battery to the motor, which would help as well. Also, consider having your stock solder points re-soldered, so the flow of energy is smoother.
Don't forget to select the best answer... ;)
AEG-wise... you would be hard pressed to find one that would be able to hit 350 FPS.
On the spring rifle side, try a VSR BAR-10, they are decent. Any sniper rifle will be able to touch 400 FPS or higher. However, a warning about high-FPS guns - You won't be able to shoot CQC on fields if you need to, meaning you may have to get a sidearm in order to compensate for that.
I also own the same gun, and I have to say, this gun shoots WAY too hot for CQC, which is what you would want a sidearm for. If you play woods, but want to be able to go CQC, I would get a side arm, like a 1911 single stack just to complete the look, but it's all up to you. If you pretty much play strictly field, then I would not.
If your KWA is li-po ready, then yes, your gearbox should be fine. And a MOSFET chip will regulate your energy flow better, so instead of unregulated power coursing through the circuitry every time you pull the trigger, you get a consistent energy flow, saving you money in the long run. Yes, I would install a MOSFET chip if I got a Li-Po battery.
crazyNCman seems to have said it all, I would take his advice, and don't be offended. This is a great site, just take what he has said as constructive criticism, and do better.
Hope that helps,
**armor**
I think ASGI has proven that a 6.01 has far better qualities in accuracy than any other bores; everyone worries about them jamming. Just keep 'em clean.
Bio-BBs are prone to problems. I don't use them, because in humid weather, they tend to swell up, causing magazine or barrel jams, and if they get wet, they are completely destroyed. I use plastic, because they are far more durable, and reliable.
Do a google search on Chinese Airsoft Gun Crackdown, and you should get some news hits.
Basically, the story is that this year is the anniversary of something communist, and the Chinese government basically decided to crack down on all illegal activity in celebration of it. So they raided the factories, confiscated weapons, and put the CEOs in jail. But this is normal. When the bribes make their way to the right officials, the crackdown will cease, and the production will resume as normal.
I think one of the articles said that we should be getting china clones again by Nov. 1, 2010
One of the most underused tactic in airsoft is the cloverleaf flank. If you understand what a flank is (in military terms) then the cloverleaf flank is a simple maneuver to the rear, out, and forward. This puts distance between you and the OpFor, allowing you to get around the sides, even the rear, of your opponent. When doing this, remember that the farther out you go, the more out of sight you become, but the more time that it takes. Think of it as making a huge 'U'.
Other tactics that I like to use are to have my team push up hard, fall back to more fortified positions, thereby drawing in the OpFor and potentially catching them in a bad position.
I also like to do a 'hammer' attack; essentially drawing the greater portion of your forces on one side, and hitting your opponent's weak side without mercy. Finally, if I am playing with people who don't understand tactics or stratagem, then I do a ghost flank; simply cloverleaf flanking without any support, constantly moving.
Tactics though, are completely up to you. Most tactics are improvised on the fly, rather than planned out before the game, because you know what they say, "Every well thought out battle plan NEVER survives first contact with the enemy." Improvise, never be predictable, and play to your strengths and their weaknesses, and you will be invincible on the battlefield.
If you want more information, read 'Sun Tzu and the Art of War.' It may be 2000+ years old, but it's standard reading for ANY serious tactician.
Don't forget to select the best answer... ;)
Depends on what you would like to do. XM8 has an integrated red dot sight (if you get the SRC version) while the M4 has more options. I own an XM8, and I find that it's more comfortable than just an M4. I also like the look of an XM8 than the M4.
It's all a matter of personal preference.
It doesn't matter about the barrel length, but the FPS and energy (in joules) when it comes to CQB. As an example, the Classic Army CASL8 is a 'sniper' rifle, but shoots a mere 300FPS, making it perfect for CQB style play.
Most CQC players use short barreled carbines in order to roll around corners better; a shorter barrel allows for a greater degree of speed, is easier to maneuver, and has serious advantages against their longer barreled cousins.
What is my opinion of it? Sure, use your standard M4, but expect to have a tougher time maneuvering around hallways, around corners, through windows, and generally moving around. However, when it comes to precision shots, longer barrels are far superior to short barreled CQC rifles.
Reputable places of business:
1. Airsplat.com (they have great prices, but a somewhat limited menu)
2. AirsoftGi.com (more expensive, but far more specialized
3. AirsoftCarolina.com (the guy who made this site works for them)
4. AirsoftPost.com (AKA Evike, they've got decent prices and decent selections)
5. PrecisionAirsoft.com (just because they live within a few hundred miles of me... XD)
I wouldn't trust others nearly so much, these are all reputable dealers.
I wouldn't get either of them. Both of them are decent, but they each have their issues, mostly with aesthetics and functionality. Here is an absolutely fantastic review that helped me get my DBoys SCAR
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZmzajIdBS0
There are four SCARs being reviewed in the video; Classic Army, VFC, DBoys, and STAR. Don't forget to choose the best answer... ;)
Probably not. Think about it this way
Your motor represents a semi-truck. An empty trailer isn't going to cause the truck to pull too hard. It's going to tug on the gears the same way it did before, and it's going to turn the gears a little faster, and pull the spring back a little quicker. It all depends on if your motor is the kind that is set up for ROF or FPS. The difference is torque and horsepower, in car terms.
Why not?
Oh, and in the military, it's not called 'rank' it's called 'grade' as in 'pay-grade'. Rank is your position in the chain of command (like for the air force, element leader, flight sergeant, first sergeant, flight commander, squadron commander, etc), while grade says how much moola you get paid, and time in the service.
Airsofters wearing grade? Sure, it's not a bad thing, as long as they are respectful to the grade itself and not disrespectful. Same with wearing the flag of the respective nation that they are from. Don't be disrespectful toward it.
Buy what makes you happy. Don't buy something solely because a friend recommended it; investigate it yourself! Sure, take recommendations, but then, investigate, read reviews, read all sorts of stuff on it, and be willing to take each gun with a grain of salt.
But for a first gun, I started out with the CYMA Thompson M1A1; it's got great FPS, darn accurate (can easily hit a man sized target at 200+ feet; for a carbine, that's amazing), and is fun to use. It's reliable, (steel gearbox, gears, etc) can take a beating, and is somewhat upgradable (internally)
Hope that helps, and don't forget to select the best answer... ;)
Hmmm... Doesn't let up off the trigger?
AspecAirsoft just refurbished an A&K M60E4 AEG airsoft gun. But it's a heavy gun. If he gets it, go with a two or three point sling to help him carry it. And a bi-pod on it would help as well.
http://aspecairsoft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=54
If you want a lighter primary weapon, maybe a JG or G36, regular version, not the carbine, but with the longer barrel and a C-magazine. They ain't too heavy, have a decent rate of fire, and are reliable.
http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ER-SRC-0631-G36.htm
As for the sidearm, KWA 1911 or an CA MK5-K, (which is a pistol version of the MK5)
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=154_155&products_id=4220
Like hawkboy06 said, don't put 'please answer' in your answer. Trust me, all answers are answered.
http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ER-ICS-MP5A4-63.htm
ICS is probably one of the best producers of airsoft guns out there. And this version is decent, and within your price range. I would jump for such an opportunity.
And you should never be in a hurry to select an airsoft gun. It takes time, and patience; if you just hurry and buy on our advice without looking at it yourself, you will most likely not be satisfied witht the product.
Hahaha. You said 'schmuck'. I love that word.
Airsoft is based on the honor system, where if you are hit, you are out, and you don't pick up other peoples stuff. Unfortunately, there are jerks and criminals everywhere, and airsoft is no exception. Here is how I see it.
LABEL YOUR STUFF! Take preventive measures to make sure no one can claim that Dark Earth Tornado Grenade as their own. I trademark all my stuff just to make sure with my own custom logo (a kind of don't tread on me logo with some modification...oh you know what I mean.) in an out of the way spot on my stuff, in the magazine well, or under the handguard, so that way, if worse comes to worse, I can inspect suspicious gear and confirm weather or not it's mine or theirs. Most honest airsofters won't mind if you check their gear to confirm it's yours. It's the ones that say 'NO YOU AREN'T TOUCHING MY STUFF' you need to worry about.
For example, magazines are something people drop all the time. I actually spray-paint the top half orange (the part that goes into the gun, so it isn't visible) so I can not only find it, but I can say "Dude, that's my M4 magazine."
I hope that helps. Don't forget to select the 'best answer!'
There is no 'best gun' in airsoft. All guns do different things, differently. While one gun may be fantastic at CQC, it's probably terrible at sniping. And the ones that can 'do it all', jack-of-all-trades sort of guns, they tend to be okay at everything, and good at nothing.
Pick a gun type you like, and play with it. Learn how to use your gun properly, and then you can be a better player than all those around you.
When people say "My gun is better than yours!" it's a form of arrogance. I hate it when people do that, because it's not the gun, it's the player. A good player can play with anything effectively, whether it be a mediocre spring pistol, or a gas blowback assault rifle. Always remember that!
Supposedly, there has been a massive crackdown in China on the airsoft industry. Technically, producing anything that looks like a firearm in a communist country is illegal, and, since this is the 60th anniversary of the Communist Party's rise to power in China, they decided to make a show of force.
Here is an article that I found. No sources, though.
http://ezinearticles.com/?Chinese-Crackdown-on-Airsoft-Factories-May-Make-Christmas-More-Expensive&id=3231972
Most of it seems to be rumor, I have head everything from the 60th anniversary one (which seems the most plausible) to the idea that engineers at AGM were making real gun parts for a resistance group.
Either way, I have heard (rumor, again. There really isn't much fact in this entire story) that when the bribes are paid to the officials, the crackdown will cease, and all these companies will start cranking out the airsoft guns again. I heard that Nov. 1 is the expected return date.
As for why the other, non-China guns are out of stock, it's simple. Since the Chinese ones are gone, the only other options are the Taiwanese and Japanese guns. People have bought those up, and these companies are struggling to keep up with the demand.
That's my ideas on it. If anyone else has any real proof, then that would be helpful!!
Go with a pistol. Unless your primary is a single shot, you won't need a fully auto side-arm.
1911 models are really popular, but my favorites are P99s, G17s, and...I guess... 1911s.
Well, you must be weird or something. XD jk
Well, no, I don't, but I've printed the Gadsden Flag on my CYMA Thompson M1A1, so I suppose I could name it Gadsden...
Scopes? ON A PISTOL? Sacrilege!! XD
If you really want one, go with a Leapers Reflex sight, (they are good for quick target acquisition, which is what you will most likely be using a red dot for). I would recommend getting a set of fiber optic iron sights; they work great, they don't increase the profile of the gun, and can allow your pistol to fit in a holster.
If you play more field, get the SCAR. It's FAR better for field and longer range fighting, but can go CQC (it has a folding buttstock) if you have to.
If you play more CQC (close quarters combat) definately get the MP5, as long as it's the type where the stock completely folds or collapses. I think the variant is the MP5SD5, (has the long silencer and the stock collapses around the receiver).
It all depends on what you would like to do and your personal preference. If you like the MP5 over the SCAR, or vice versa, get the one over the other. Airsoft is a game of customization, where you can live the real thing without spending or risking it all.
Check out the CYMA, JG, Dboy, and the Echo1 product line of guns. They make fabulously reliable airsoft guns for that price range.
As for the type, go for either AEG or spring. AEG's have a high rate of fire, and are moderately accurate at distance. Best 'jack-of-all-trade' gun you are going to find. The only CO2 guns you will find at that price range are pistols, (rifles are two or three times as much), and they are prettymuch only good for fighting CQC (close quarters combat). Spring guns are mostly sniper rifle varients, M700s and L97s.
As for what type of gun to get, both of those guns are solid guns, but the UMP45 is a harder gun to find for your price range. Try out the MP5, or the MP7, (if you can find one in that price range).
Hope that helps!
If the flash hider is screwed on, then you simply unscrew it and as the french say, 'voila!' you have your flash hider
However, if it is glued on, the point is to heat the glue to the point where it becomes wet and gooey, and you can slide it off easier. Sometimes, you won't have threads on underneath, other times you will.
If you haven't seen this video yet, you might want to.
AATV: SCAR vs SCAR vs SCAR vs SCAR
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZmzajIdBS0&playnext_from=TL&videos=fiRWTz7RWqc
The VFC is really expensive because
1. It's a VFC
2. Internals are high-quality
3. Build quality is excellent
E1 P90 is a great gun. I have long considered getting one, but have my heart set on other things. I think I will actually buy one next paycheck or so.
IOW, it's a great gun. Shoots about 370-400Feet Per Second (too hot for CQC), perfect for field and woods games. It's tight, compact, and it has a great Rate Of Fire (ROF, if you didn't know), and is decently accurate. I would recommend one for a beginner any day.
If you don't want that, try out the CYMA Thompson M1A1. I own one, and it's darn tough. Shoots 390-400FPS, and has a great ROF with an 8.4v battery. OR, if you want a more modern gun, there is the DBoys MK16 (SCAR-L, for those who don't know it's proper designation). I am getting one soon! Heard tons of good things about it.
Hope that helps!
Google Search 'Airsoft Teams in (your area)" and you should come up with some hits.
For example, I live near Spokane, WA, and if I google search 'Airsoft Teams near Spokane, WA" I get Spokane Airsoft, the local club.
Other times, you can go to different forums and sometimes they will have airsoft teams post up their roster and where they are.
Just ask around. Post it on craigslist, ask friends, keep posting here, (XD), and above all, PRACTICE, so when you do go to do a tryout, you don't look like a fool.
Why not both? Like a DSMR (Designated Support Marksman Rifle). Get a "Sniper" Rifle like a CA SL-8, stick a C-mag on it, and you've got a DSMR!!
Seriously? I would go for a support gunner, they pack more firepower and can hit targets close to what snipers do. Just expect to spend a great deal of moola in ammunition.
Why would you pay money to advertise on TV when there's Youtube?
Besides, TV is expensive, and the profit margin for airsoft is not as large as what you may think.
If you want to join a team,
1. Find a team/start a team
2. Ask
3. Go to practices and games.
That's it. Just have fun. Oftentimes, teams advertise themselves on a webpage. Do a google search for teams in your area.
KWA is not a waste of money, but an echo 1 with accessories is pretty much the same deal. I would go for the echo 1, you get more for your money. It's great quality, comparable with high-end guns, but not too expensive.
What are you planning on doing with it? For just backyard airsoft would be fine, but I wouldn't plan on taking it to larger scale games, and don't plan on using it for years and years.
Hands down, KWA seems to be the better gun, from what I've seen.
HOWEVER, you need to take this into consideration.
If you are looking for realism, I would go with that WE. Why? Because the barrel moves, like a real firearm. Most handguns (real steel) barrels move slightly to absorb recoil, which contributes to making them less accurate than rifles. The KWA one doesn't, while though it doesn't say on the WE, I am assuming it does. You will be more accurate with a KWA, but less realistic.
In a hop up, there are several components that make it up. What you are looking for is what is called the 'nub' which is the part which contacts the BB. There are two common types, an H-nub and a U-nub.
airsoftgi and evike sell nubs, and they aren't very expensive.
I don't use bio-bbs because they have some fatal flaws
1. In humid conditions they swell and crack.
2. They must be kept dry in order to function.
3. They are more expensive
I understand that bio-bbs are good for the environment, but they can't perform under tougher conditions. If you keep them dry, they will perform as good as the plastic ones, but ONLY if you keep them dry.
Do you have a sidearm? That would be ideal for a CQC situation.
If you are intent on getting something else, I would stick with the vest and mag pouches. Yes, better guns are fun, but tactically, it would be better to stick with the gun you have, train with it harder, and get a better vest.
Typically, it would, because you have more force to push the BB out farther. However, if you are using the same grain (mass) of BB, then the BB moving faster might actually travel inaccurately, ruining the range. What you want is accuracy at range.
In order to increase accuracy at higher FPS, you have to use a higher mass of BB. Instead of .2gram, you might use .23g, .25g, even .30g so you can accurately push the BB out.
There does come a point where you can't possibly push a .2g BB out faster without a serious suffering in accuracy, so you have to up the mass, and you take a hit in FPS.
Do what YOU like to do. Not what your friends tell you to do, not what they think looks cool, because airsoft is a game of personalization. YOU get to choose who you want to be, YOU get to choose what gun you like, YOU get to choose...yada yada yada.
And any fool who tells you that you look foolish is an idiot, and not worth listening to.
Back to the question, I would match your environment with the color. If you play desert, go with tan, otherwise, I would go OD. But that is just a personal opinion. If you like tan, do tan. I live in a very green environment, but I have a tan gun, because I like it.
Like real firearms, the more extreme the environment, the more you have to maintain your gun. In other words, if you don't maintain and clean, then the sand exfoliates things that are not meant to be exfoliated.
My buddy has this gun, and it isn't too bad. It feels slightly flimsy, but other than that, it shoots fine. I don't know what to think yet, but for the price, it seems to be a decent gun. Go for it.
If you want distance, the best for you would be a sniper rifle, not an AEG. But, if you want an AEG sniper rifle, a Dragunov OR some kind of DSR would be a good idea, but good luck trying to find them for under 200.
Well, they are a good website-*crazyNCman grabs my shoulder and squeezes threateningly* ...there are others!!!
1. AirsoftCarolina is a good store.
2. AirsoftGi
3. Evike
4. Airsplat
5. AspecAirsoft
I would consider getting a decent shotgun. There are tri-shot shotguns for that price range, and you can't beat 350FPS instead of 250FPS.
If you are looking for something less than 60 and don't expect to do any hard duty stuff (like strictly backyard airsoft on a monthly or bimonthly basis) I would get a Walmart Crosman. Don't expect to do anything great with it.
I highly recommend saving your bucks for something you will not spend money to replace for a long time.
Do you mean the TSD ops M9?
www.airsoftcarolina.com
www.airsoftgi.com
www.airsplat.com (if they have it)
www.airsoftpost.com
All of the above are legitimate and popular dealers of airsoft stuff.
Dboys sells the MK16 SCAR for 160 bucks on airsplat or evike, and is highly recommended by many people. So you now have 90 bucks to spend on stuff like a nice reflex sight (50), a laser (20 bucks) and a flash-hider (20 bucks)
OR you could go for the mid-cap box set, and get 5 midcaps for 50ish bucks.
Here's the way I understand it.
mAh, or Milliamps, is essentially a measure how much 'juice' your battery has. If you have an 8.4v 1400mAh battery, there's no real strain on your gun. mAh essentially tells you how long your battery will last.
Volts in a battery tells how quickly it runs. If you have an 9.6v 400mAh battery, that tells you that your battery will run quickly, but it will die quickly too.
In car terms
Volts=top speed
mAh=miles per gallon
1. Don't use cheap quality BBs. It kills you every time.
2. Clean your barrel. If you don't, dust, dirt, and debris will clog your barrel
3. Be conscious of where your barrel is. You might be sinking it into the dirt occasionally...
You take the silicone, spray it on a paper towel, wrap it around your barrel unjammy thingymabobber, and swab the barrel to clean it.
Some people take a little silicone and spray it down the magazine well, but I don't do that as much.
You overstressed the bolt catch.
Essentially, when you cock back the gun, the piston latches onto a mechanism that is released by the trigger. You probably overstressed the piston/latch mechanism and now, you might have to replace it. That's my best guess at it. Good luck!
Here is my method of selling used guns.
1. Take your Buy It New price (what you paid for it). Subtract 30%
2. Look it over, is it in good cosmetic condition? Do all the doo-dads and functions work? Did you modify it at all? If you did modify it, it will be harder to sell.
3. Lastly, ask around if there is a demand for it. The less demand for it, the less you charge.
I would avoid DE, I've found that their products tend to break early on, with very little wear.
Under 150...
DBoys (Kalash AK74UN or MK16 SCAR)
AGM (almost anything)
CYMA (M14 and Thompson M1A1)
All the above companies make very fine quality guns for the 100-150 dollar price range. The guns in parentheses are the ones I recommend on account of their good reviews and sound feedback from many people
In my experience, upping the volts puts more wear on all the parts, because now, there is more power surging through it. The motor turns faster, hence the gears have to move faster to compete. You have a whole host of problems that erupt without a gearbox that can't take the heat.
I major upgrade would cause these problems. Upgrading from an 8.4v to a 9.6v probably won't harm the gearbox, motor, or spring.
I've heard nothing but good things about the Dboys Scar, that it performs with the best SCARs out there. I am actually ordering it, so I can't say from experience that it's a good gun. Only time will tell.
Trust me when I say that you don't need to silence it. Airsoft guns are extremely quiet compared to firearms, and you are not going to be able to suppress the spring much.
If you are determined, I had an idea a while ago. Use neoprene (the stuff that nice mousepads and wetsuits are made from) and either stuff the stock with it or use it as an external layer. I don't know exactly how it would be done, but, if done, you could suppress outside sound by more than half.
The romanian AK really isn't meant for modifications. There really aren't any that are going to be cheap. If you want to do a DIY project, just tape a laser pointer to your gun and call it good.
Smart chargers charge your batteries quickly (and I mean quick! 30min-1hour) and can save your batteries. The cheap wall chargers tend to overcharge if you don't pay attention to them, and can ruin your longevity of your battery. They do tend to save you money in the long run, and they are not drastically expensive. $50 can get you the cheapest smart charger, and its just fine for what you are probably looking in to
Normally, spring is better for sniper rifles and such, because of the realism.
CO2 is kinda a jack of all trades, very realistic in all fields, but generally is used more for pistols.
AEG, or battery, is generally used for rifles, on account of the fact that higher rates of fire can be achieved for longer periods of time.
What do you want to do? P90s are far superior for maneuverability in tight places compared to the Steyr, but the Steyr has a longer barrel for field games. So it depends on what you want to do. Me? I would be using the Steyr because all I play are field games
AEGs can be used in a variety of temperatures, but the lower you go, the more you risk a part breaking. It wouldn't be wise to take an AEG out in temperatures below 35F degrees. Batteries tend to slow down, o-rings freeze up and grow sluggish, and grease coagulates into globs. It ain't pretty.
It's not that bullpups are more accurate than one thing or another, its the length of the barrel (in real ballistics). For example, a P90 has an M4 length barrel, but is far shorter overall. So, its not a question of type, but of barrel length. It depends on what you want. If you like bullpups, go with the Steyr AUG.
Hope that answers your question
Maybe your hop up bucking isn't fully seated, or your entire hop up system is not properly positioned. I would open your gun back up and recheck it to make sure that it is. If your hop up is not properly positioned over the feed well of your magazine, it may cause misfeeds and jams.
Just a guess, it's hard to know when you aren't there.
I wouldn't recommend getting the PFI grenade. it isn't very effective. If you are looking for a fragmentation effect, go with the Tornado grenade. It's the best for fragmentation effect, but it's expensive.
I would recommend the Hakkotsu Thunder grenade.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=32195
It is cheap, makes a loud 'BOOM!' but no fragmentation effect, and you have to replace the shells, but those aren't expensive.
Like 'Airsoft' said below, you need to match your camouflage to your environment. As for sewing multicam strips to your leg, what's the point?
I use Woodland Camo, because it matches my environment decently.
Could it be that your tappet plate spring is worn out? Is the spring even in there? It really sounds like a tappet plate issue.
Could it also be that your modification with the hop up from two to one piece has changed how the BBs feed into the chamber or how the air nozzle mates with the hop chamber? Keep up the work, and I hope this helps.
I have personally ordered from them. Their shipping, though free, is awful (since it has to come from mainland China, go through their customs, our customs, etc), but their prices are reasonable. Yes, they are a reputable airsoft dealer.
You don't. Pistols, in both airsoft and reality, have a lot of wobble between the barrel (outer barrel, not inner) and the slide. Which is why pistols are not entirely accurate past a certain distance. Target pistols, a specific type of pistol, have no moving parts relative to the barrel, and only the action moves. An example is the Mark I, popularized by Ruger, or the Browning Buckmark. If you attempt to modify the barrel so that it does, you'll end up interfering with the auto loading of each BB.
If there is wobble from the inner barrel inside the outer barrel, you could fix it by barber-poling it with teflon tape. There shouldn't be any adverse effects since the inner barrel shouldn't move separate from the outer barrel.
There isn't really much difference. I think they are both the same gun, but I cannot be sure.
I own a UTG, and it's a solid shooting CQC weapon. It definitely takes some serious skill to sneak up on an AEG-wielding airsofter and tag him; you've only got one chance to do it right.
Hope this helps, and don't forget the best answer.
It's your battery; have you charged it recently? Not that I'm inferring you're an idiot, I've just gotta be sure that all the basis are covered.
If you've charged your battery, and you're positive you're doing everything right, then you probably should replace the battery. You probably could upgrade to a 9.6v LiPo, if you wanted to. If not, then you could upgrade to a 9.6v NiMH.
Look, if you want to upgrade the ROF and not worry about the internals, then I would suggest that you do it right;
1. Upgrade the gears, bushings, shimming, and piston. Redo the gearbox to start taking some punishment.
2. Upgrade the motor
3. Then start to consider a battery.
If you upgrade only one or two things, you are going to still have problems, because a higher voltage battery is going to put wear and tear on everything, not just the motor or the gears.
And you have to remember that a 10.8v NiMH has about the same rate of fire as an 11.1v LiPo battery, so you are going to put the same ROF through it.
Don't forget the best answer!
The sad truth is, unless you're buying a real steel scope, there is no such thing as an 'expensive' scope for airsoft. Leupold, which is arguably one of the best producers of rifle scopes for the commercial market, produces scopes that, for serious hunters, range around 500+ dollar range. If you want a great scope, you pay through the nose for the accuracy.
In terms of airsoft, manufacturers cut corners on internal quality in order to give the airsofter something they think will be great. Honestly, anything under 100 bucks is cheap, suffers from parallax, or does not stay sighted in. They break prematurely, use poor end construction, or wear out after continued use.
If you shell out some bucks, you will end up getting something nice in terms of a scope, but honestly, it's somewhat pointless. I have a 3.5-10x40mm power scope on my DMR, and I don't think there has ever been a point in the entire lifetime of the rifle that I've actually scoped in past 5 power for accuracy. It cost me about 90 bucks, it's illuminated, and though it's a nice piece, it suffers from parallax, a condition where the rounding of the magnifying lens causes the picture to distort around the edges.
Now, in terms of if a BB shatters the lens... it depends on how close the lens is hit, how hard it's been hit, what the weight of the BB was, etc. I've had BBs glance off the lens before, never had problems, never seen one crack, etc. I tend to believe that it's a rare occurrence when a BB cracks a lens, and people get 'knowledgeable' and say 'oh yeah, I've seen it happen!' when in reality, it happens but rarely in comparison to how many times you yourself get hit by a BB.
It's still something to protect against, though. I would suggest a RIS mounted plexiglass shield (they do sell them). They look silly, but they do the job well.
Don't forget the best answer!
In terms of range, a REALLY good hop up unit, like Tokyo Marui's, can and will get you better range. High FPS reduces time to target. Think of it this way.
A good hop up unit increases distance, how far you can travel, and FPS reduces travel time to target. If you examine TM when they shoot, their BBs float out forever, while a cheaper China replica zips out there. It would seem that the china replicas like JG, Dboys, A&K have more range, when in reality their BBs simply get there faster.
FPS is important because it leaves your target less time to react and dodge the BBs at range. Hop up is important because it will depend on how consistent your BBs travel in the same pattern. TM will consistently fly in a predictable pattern, while most cheaper AEGs will fly in an unpredictable, wide pattern past 150 feet.
Make sense? Don't forget to select the best answer!
I would say that you should check for air leaks along the air nozzle, hop up, piston head and cylinder; any serious drop in FPS without a spring change probably indicates an air leak.
Unless you kept the spring compressed for a great deal of time. If that happened, then that might have caused your spring to soften up, and not push nearly as hard.
Don't forget the best answer!
A spacer is a nub, a nub is a spacer, and a bucking is the rubber sleeve the slips over the barrel and the thing that actually makes contact with the BB.
How, a concave spacer is a good thing, but you must have a concave bucking, or one that splits in the middle; otherwise you are simply applying force over the top of the bucking, rather than on the sides, where you want it. As well, your bucking must be perfectly centered over the feed well, at the 12 o'clock position; otherwise you are getting hop to the left or to the right.
Hope this helps, and don't forget to select the best answer.
Those firework grenades are decent, but they stink like a skunk and don't put out a lot.You can make your own high output smoke grenades with potassium nitrate, sugar, water, baking soda, and powder dye. Look for recipes on Youtube.
And, if you do decide to make this, be VERY sure to keep an eye on it, as they are pyrotechnics and can start a fire. And also be sure to include the dye, so your neighbors don't get confused and call the fire department
don't forget to select the best answer!
If your gearbox is locked up, you can either try firing it in auto, to un-trip the anti-reversal latch, OR you would have to pull the motor out and trip the anti-reversal latch manually.
Look up "Gearbox lock up fix airsoft" on google; that might help you find a how-to guide, and check Mechbox.com
Don't forget to select the best answer.
Sorry to tell you this, bud, but you can't force your friends to be more 'milsim.' I've got teammates who play the exact same way, and, persuasive as I may be, I have no more sway on their actions than another might.
If you want to keep your team together, then you are going to have to accept them as they are; no one wants to listen to someone rail against them while they are trying to have fun. If you simply accept them as they are, and attempt to direct them with suggestions instead of direct commands, it will floor you how quickly they will fall into line.
The definition of leadership is "Leadership is the art of influencing others to cooperate toward a common goal." If you are trying the same tactic over and over again, you're gonna do absolutely nothing other than annoy the heck out of your friends, and thereby hinder your efforts to win the game.
And honestly, the best team I have ever seen has got to be Team Boot at my local field. I can't say they are the most tactically sound, and I can't say that they are the best players, but goodness, they know how to play! During Operation Iraqi Freedom, they played Iraqi Insurgents, and were the best insurgents ever, including the vuvuzila. They've officially earned my respect and admiration.
Don't be so direct. Talk to your team like you know what you're talking about. Use "Could you...Would you...Can you..." These are just as powerful as a direct imperative. And don't be pissed off if they don't do what you say.
To be an effective team captain, you have to listen to everyone, including the guy who has no clue what he's talking about. In fact, you especially need to listen to the guy who has no clue what he's talking about. When you are inclusive, rather than exclusive, people are drawn to your leadership 'aura.' They subconciously realize that you listen, that you care, and that will inspire your team to greater heights than ever before.
I have plenty of experience with this. I've led countless people in squad based tactics, many times over. Not to toot my own horn, but I know what I'm talking about. Take my advice, and you will become a better, more effective leader.
Finally, don't be a boss. Bosses drive, Leaders Inspire. Leaders are what you want to be. Leaders are the kind of people that get his followers to think of all the ideas, and then implement them. He makes them feel like they are a member of the team.
And, if your friends have no desire to do any of this, and you cannot, in any way shape or form convince them otherwise, they are not your friends on the field.
Don't forget to select the best answer!
Rounds per Minute and Feet Per Second have very little to do with each other in the mechbox. One deals with how much torque the motor pulls, and the other deals with how quickly the motor turns. If your mechbox and wiring can handle the extra voltage, then simply upgrading the battery to a higher voltage will do the trick, but, the more voltage you add on, the higher chance you strip a piston. A 9.6 volt battery should get you over 10 rounds per second easy, which is more than 600 RPM. I wouldn't go any higher than a 9.6v battery, too. 10.8v batteries (the step after a 9.6) have the equivalent discharge of an 11.1v LiPo.
If properly installed, a tightbore barrel will increase the accuracy of your groupings at your current range, up your FPS by about 5 or 6 feet per second, and generally, allow you to be more accurate.
TBBs come in several accepted categories; 6.04mm, 6.03mm, and 6.01mm. I've only seen 6.02mm rarely. .01mm barrels have the lowest tolerances of tightbores, and must be cleaned after every game. .03mm and .04mm have higher tolerances, but it's still highly advisable to clean the barrel after every game.
Not to mention that high grade, superior polish BBs MUST be used to obtain the accuracy of a tightbore, otherwise, you might as well be throwing rocks. Don't forget to select the best answer!
No; LiPo battery cells have to be balanced in voltage and electricity, and that charger doesn't do that. The charger will most often say it's a Lithium Polymer capable charger.
LiPo chargers tend to be more expensive; if you are looking for something with the same amount of power, check out the 10.8v NiMH. Simpler to use, no risk of melting your battery, though you have to deal with the size issues.
An SR-25, in real life, fires the 7.62 NATO round, while the M16 fires the 5.56 NATO. Essentially, they are extraordinarily similar, though one fires a larger bullet. Meaning, in airsoft, the magazines are going to be slightly longer.
To the untrained eye, an M16 with a stubby magazine might pass as an SR-25, but honestly, there's no comparison. The upper and lower receiver are completely incompatible, and the RIS system is free floating, while an M16's version is not.
Honestly, what your friend is looking for is a DMR style rifle, and an accurized, properly upgraded M16 is going to be a fine gun for the job; more customizing options, more parts, standardized parts, no specialty worries, etc. Internally, it's gonna be about the same, with the exception of a few parts, such as the shortened air nozzle (compared to the SR25s) hop up, and a few other internals.
Well, I took a look at your video (props to you for posting a video). I have no experience with this particular problem, so don't take my word for it, but it looked like your outer barrel wasn't moving a lot. I'll trust you that it was, but it was difficult to tell. I think that's about as tight as you can get it, unless it wasn't acting like that before.
1. Have you reassembled this past this point? I think the handguard might help keep the barrel assembly from moving around more.
2. Tighten up your front sight post's pins.
Other than that, I am out of ideas. Take it to a local tech, and they would be able to help you more. Hope this helps; let me know how it goes!
Things not to do tactically;
1. Don't stop moving, unless you have no other choice.
2. Don't loose ground, but be flexible; change which direction the battlefield is played.
3. Press the flanks of your quarry, never the center.
4. Strike fast, strike hard.
For when you are the last man standing on your team.
1. Don't stop moving; don't take cover for any great period of time, don't hole up anywhere, and definitely do NOT suicide run. It's still winnable, but it's going to take a long time, and you have to be patient, careful, and well timed.
2. Shoot once, run twice, like the French. The solider who runs away lives to fight another day; in essence, run hit-and-run tactics like crazy. I like to set up one man ambushes where I shoot once, then fall back, regardless of whether I hit the guy or not. It keeps the enemy force guessing as to where exactly you are, where you are going to be next, etc.
3. Stay as invisible as possible, and never be spotted for any great length of time. When you are under the spotlight, find some solid cover, like a bunker, a stand of trees, then fade back into the background; your camouflage will help. Your opponents, if you do this correctly, will continue to press against that one position.
4. Take the circuitous route; in layman's terms, take the scenic route. It's often more difficult, but you won't be spotted, you will have a better chance of flanking your opponents, and you will be far less vulnerable to being cornered.
5. Plan your battles; don't be afraid to break engagement and get away. Time is on your side if you run away, but it isn't on your side if you continue to fight. The longer you stay in an engagement, the more likely you are to be flanked, cornered, and eliminated.
6. Multiply your force. If the opposing team doesn't know how many people you have on your team, you have a severe advantage over them. Attack from one side, withdraw, then attack from the other. This principle, the principle of Force Multiplication, can cause your opposing force to question it's footing, their ability to press the attack, and, thusly, stagnate their assault against you.
7. In short, wage offensive war, but don't do it for too long. Quantity, with time, overcomes quality without; you don't have quantity, so don't get bogged down.
It takes forever to win this way though, and you have to be incredibly quick, quiet, and agile, something most airsofters don't possess. It takes hard work, training, and excellent discipline to reach the level of discipline to wage conflict against superior numbers. Oftentimes, you will find that, despite your best efforts, you will not succeed if the other team is disciplined, trained, and organized, even moderately so. Guerrilla warfare is extraordinarily difficult to wage by yourself. If you ever get to the point where numbers are not on your side, say a 3 on 10 game, then it's time to wage guerrilla warfare. Don't wait until you are the only one left; otherwise, you won't have enough numbers to mount an effective resistance.
No, vests are not required at all. The vests you see are for the carrying of extra equipment, like magazines, extra ammunition, grenades, etc.
You don't need 'em if you don't have many magazines, but, if you are airsofting, you should have some extra magazines and some sort of rig to carry them, for ease of reloading. You don't necessarily need a vest; I run leg panels of magazines, because I find vests constrict my breathing.
ASGI is a lot more expensive then other airsoft sites, but they have a decent quality control, and their customer service is decent.
Evike is another good one
Airsplat is decent for ordering small stuff, but I won't ever order another gun from them, simply because there's no quality control.
Airsoft Megastore is another decent one that I've heard first hand, decent reports, about, but I've seen their prices, and, to be honest, their 'sale' prices are what the guns normally sell at. I think it's a dirty trick to get people to think they are getting a great deal, but in all reality, they aren't.
Precision Airsoft is my local store, located in Spokane, WA, and they are great! I order a lot of my stuff from there, mostly because they are close, but also because of their absolutely fantastic customer service!
Last, but not least, MilSpec Airsoft, started by crazyNCman, is a fabulous site to order from. He doesn't charge more for shipping, (like more and more sites are now) and, if you have any issues with your stuff, you can talk to him about it.
You're welcome! And don't forget to select a best answer!
I purchased the Generation 2 A&K Masada, and, though it has issues, it's a completely fieldable gun, and far better choice than others of the same price class. However, the biggest issue is the hop up; it sucks my big left... toe. I have to turn the hop up nearly full on to get .20 gram BBs to float right; .25s are out of the question, even though the gun could easily shoot them.
What I did to fix said problem is remove the barrel, pull the adjustment slide off the hop up body, (so the hop up arm springs free) and apply thin strips of electrical tape to the arm, so the slider can push the hop up arm into the bucking a little better. Essentially, the ghetto mod solution is to shim the hop up arm.
If you can find any, get the CNC hop up available for it. It (reportedly) can solve the problem perfectly. The reason I haven't gotten one is they are completely out of stock - everywhere.
Though if you are asking if it's worth it, yes, but you are buying a lot of Magpul licensing; my thoughts on it are that the gun is only worth about 220, while the licensing that A&K pays to Magpul is another 60-70 bucks.
The popcan chrono method is the most innaccurate method of chronoing your replica. I discovered a way to chrono ANY gun more accurately than a real chronograph, as long as you do the math right.
There's a link to the article.
http://www.theairsoftsoldier.com/index.php?topic=6253.msg76858#new
I use this method for all my guns, and it can be more accurate than any other chrono on the market, since it uses the power of my computer. AND it's totally free.
Second, I am assuming you are using .20 gram BBs; holding it point blank, any gun firing over 250 is going to puncture.
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
Typically, a shotgun is a decent choice for CQC. The rate of fire isn't all that great, for obvious reasons, but, honestly, you get a springer's ultra-low maintainence and high reliability.
You can be good with any airsoft gun that you choose, provided you know how to use it. The user that posted previously has no idea what he's talking about. I've seen, countless times, how often a person with a 'lower-end' gun absolutely destroys his competition, simply because his tactics are better, his communication with his teammates is far superior, or his efficiency with the gun itself.
In short, it's not the gun, it's the person pulling the trigger that counts.
Now to answer the second portion of your question, is it worth it? Depends on your play style!
Don't forget to choose the best answer!
If you've been searching the whole internet, and haven't found anything, you are looking wrong. Virtually ANY m4 variant accessory will fit on a GR15. ASGI, Evike, and Airsplat all sell those accessories. Which should answer your first two questions.
Measure your inner tightbore length, and you should have the length you need without a barrel extension of some kind to hide it. And as for tightbore, a 6.03 is a great one for any type of BB; if you use only high quality BBs and take care to clean your barrel before and after every match, a 6.01 is the next best option.
Hope this helps, don't forget to choose the best answer!
It took me a minute to resolve your question, as it wasn't terribly clear. Keep that in mind for future questions.
They are 40 millimeter threads, which you can screw on sunshades, extra magnifiers, (for red dots).
Hope this helps, and don't forget to select the best answer.
Don't listen to the forum warriors. Most of 'em barely remember the last time they went airsofting. They are a bunch of elitists who care about making themselves look good in the eyes of others.
My opinion? There is no "experience" levels; there are no "advanced" airsofters. Let others judge your experience levels, and you judge theirs. If you've been airsofting for years and years and years, but don't know a BB from a bearing, then you are a beginning airsofter.
Don't let ANYONE tell you that by buying guns it makes you a more experienced airsofter. That's like saying you can buy experience. Any idiot with half a brain in his head could be considered an expert because his wallet was fatter than another.
Hope that helps! Don't forget to select the best answer.
I use Crosman .20 gram BBs, and they are decent, but with a few exceptions. I find a few BBs that are dimpled occasionally, maybe a small handful per case of 5000, but, I've noticed even the TSDs, KSCs, and Madbull BBs all have a few dimpled BBs. For the price, and the convienience, they are perfect for shooting.
They aren't terribly precise, however. I had consistant jams in a modified 6.01 tightbore, but I ran them through a Classic Army SL8 with a 6.04mm tightbore with no problems whatsoever.
Just keep an eye on 'em and they should run fine. I did find terribly misformed BBs on 'sporting good specials', so I would avoid those.
It's a LaRue Tactical Rail, which is a real steel firearm accessories manufacturer, and KWA is designed for military abuse and customization. Of course it will fit! Unless the length is wrong, then no, it won't fit at all.
Yes, there guns are skirmishable; they are a rebrander, an admitted rebrander. However, it's the finest rebrander I've seen.
Javelin Airsoft Works was started by Spartan Imports, a major US distributor of CA, TM, and other fine airsoft replicas, for the purpose of quality control. Basically, they take JGs, CYMAs, DBoys, and go through them internally to replace piss-poor quality parts. End result; brand, spanking new, freakin' awesome AEGs. Not LiPo ready by any stretch of the imagination, but more reliable and skirmishable weapon.
Definitely! Hands down, without a doubt, a coordinated team in the field will always best the team that can't communicate. I've seen it time after time after time, when one team has radio communication, it opens the doors to more coordinated tactics, far more precise than any team that has to resort to traditional methods.
It's a nice idea to distinguish your team apart from everyone else, but personally, I think there are better ways to do it.
1. Wear something that's part of your uniform, yet distinctive. Like the same eye pro, the same uniform (besides m82 woodland), the same boots, same shemagh, e