About: I was involved in airsoft for 3 years but I am no longer active in the sport. I\'ve owned 15 different guns from various manufacturers (Echo1, JG, Well). I know a lot about airsoft and airsoft science (physics, ballistics etc). If you are reading my profile please use the search button before you ask a question. I've answered countless amounts of almost identical questions. That is one of the reasons why I'm not participating in Airsoft Answers as often as I use to. Look into the following companies if you want a great aeg to start.
G&G
KWA
ICS
Tokyo Marui
VFC
No that one will not fit. The cells are to wide for the buffertube. However this one will.
http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-11-1v-Stick-Airsoft-Battery/dp/B002IG5MXE/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1304981592&sr=1-5
They're both quality guns. The one factor you should consider in making your decision is the availability of aftermarket parts. The KWA has proprietary parts but excellent customer service. SRC has great parts...arguably not as good as KWA's but has more room for aftermarket/upgrades. If we're considering guns in the same price range I would go with the KWA. That being said I've seen KWA's excel and have seen them fail time and time again.
For a cqb gun a 6.01mm isnt necessary. Most stock guns are very accurate up to 100ft. In cqb this can sometimes be the maximum distance from the other players. A 6.01 is really only applicable (in my opinion) in field guns where accuracy at distance matters. A 6.03 is a good all around barrel diameter.
The weight isnt worth lugging around. If you want it for a purely aesthetic look they do make m203 single shot "shotgun" type of grenade launchers. I'd start there.
Internal differences are pretty minor. The GR16 will have a brass inner barrel,brass cylinder, and functional charging handle. The combat machine will have an aluminum inner barrel and cylinder. The performance will be about equal.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-golden-image-30mm-red-green-dot-scope-scp-rd40rgw.html
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-utg-0-83-medium-profile-riser-mounts-for-rifles-with-picatinny-weaver-rail-mo.html
This combo will give you a perfect "co-witness" ability with your front sight. It also will have free shipping.
If you get a good tightbore barrel you wont have to disassemble your gearbox and still get an increase in FPS. I recommend the Madbull Black Python series of barrels.
I would go for a 6.01mm tightbore since the proline GR16A3 comes with a 6.035mm tightbore. You really dont need to replace it. If you're looking to save money while increasing consistency and accuracy change out your bucking for the KWA 2GX bucking. As for a 6.01mm recommendation...I use a Madbull 6.01mm with the 2GX bucking. Most accurate gun I own or have owned.
I owned the KJW 1911 Tactical. It was the best performing pistol I've owned. I liked the fact that it can readily use CO2 and green gas/propane. I've also owned the KJW M9 Elite...it was a good gun but I had issues with the magazines. Your best bet is the 1911.
You wont need to replace the stock G&G bucking as it is one of the best buckings out there. The KWA 2GX bucking is the best I've used...but the G&G is a close 2nd.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-utg-0-83-medium-profile-riser-mounts-for-rifles-with-picatinny-weaver-rail-mo.html
This height is perfect to co witness the front sight of your M4.
Voltage and higher mah will effect ROF. Typically larger cells have more capacity (mah) and a higher discharge rate. The discharge rate alone can increase ROF even if the battery is an 8.4V.
Pros: Good performance, accurate, great range, lipo battery ready
Cons: Proprietary internal parts
They're good guns...but in the event of a gearbox failure (unless you've teched guns before) you'll have to send it to KWA...if its still under warranty.
You'll need a quality set of high torque gears. High speed gears with an M130 spring will strip the first time out. You'll also need a high quality polycarb piston. You'll also need a new motor to spin the gears (since HT gears give you slightly lower ROF)....You're looking at over $100 investment.
Some guns come with good air seals. Others require a few parts or as simple as a larger O-ring to fit around the piston head. Systema, G&G, and KWA make good buckings.
The G&G pneumatic blow back system is the most reliable blow back system on AEG's today. You wont have any problem with it whatsoever. The CQB version will work well at 125ft and below. It's performance will be similar to the longer version just shorter and lighter.
A heavier bb will not have any negative effects on your AEG. Your range is shortened with a heavier round...but its trajectory will be straighter. I use .25's minimum in my AEG's.
There are a number of possibilites. One...they're not all made by G&P. Two they're made by G&P but for different markets (asian, european, american etc). Three they're different generations of the same product (gen one, gen two etc).
The G&G will be your best bet but the Javelin guns arent to shabby either. The main difference (other than the metal body on the Javelin) is in their internals. G&G's will be far better made than the Javelins. But if you plan on upgrading and like a metal body get the Javelin. If you want a sound gun to start with get the G&G.
There are to many factors to give you an accurate answer as to how long it will last. A liberal estimate of mine is 1 year with moderate usage. FPS does not make a difference. It's a hard concept to grasp but it is true. My G&G GR16A3 shoots more accurately and just as far as my JG M16 did...and that was shooting in the 440fps range...my G&G is maybe shooting 400-410 at most. A quality hop up unit, quality bucking, quality tightbore, and correct cylinder to barrel length match up is more important.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_55&products_id=3485
A Madbull Black Python (6.03mm) 363mm length is also a great option...sadly out of stock on ASGI...other retailers might have it in stock.
G&G sportlines use oilless steel bushings. It looks like a brass or dirty copper color. The steel has been impregnated with oil to give it a smoother outer surface and natural lubricant. Either way SRC and G&G sportlines are great no matter the bearing size. They both sport good quality bushings be they ball bearing or solid.
If you want to upgrade it all you would really need is a new tightbore barrel. The 2GX bucking is probly the best made for guns 450fps and under. I've used the Systema bucking with an SCS spacer and it didnt give me a consistent grouping so I switched to the KWA bucking. The cylinders they use are capable to compress 510mm length barrel so a cylinder kit isnt really needed.
I would purchase a seperate scope instead of a magnifier. I have two EOtech replicas, 553, and 552. The price is reasonable. The problem with the magnifier is that if they're cheaply made they wont correct the reflective lens on the EOtech. You wont be able to see what your shooting at.
If you're getting a tightbore barrel get one that is the same length as the stock barrel. If you buy a longer barrel than your cylinder's air volume can handle you will see a drop in performance. And if you get a mock silencer get one that has a quick detach feature so you can have it on or off depending on what you're doing that day.
That all depends on you. Both guns are great in their price range. If you get the KWA the only upgrade necessary is a tighter bore barrel. If you wanted to upgrade the CM it is the perfect platform to do so. Either way you cant lose.
The 2GX shell is thicker and more angular in the front. The 2GX will also have 6 9mm ball bearing bushings while the Gen1 only had them on the sector gear. Any of their guns made from late 2009 will have the 2GX gearbox and hop up bucking.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-utg-0-83-medium-profile-riser-mounts-for-rifles-with-picatinny-weaver-rail-mo.html
This riser will allow you to co-witness your red dot with your front sight. It is the perfect height to do so.
Go with the Madbull Black Python barrels. The early JBU tightbores had trouble fitting into some hop up units as they were to thick. I'm sure they've fixed this problem but Madbull will still be a better barrel. I run 6.01mm Madbull barrels in my guns and havent had any problems. And as a side note you cannot teflon coat a cylinder....it wont stick to itself.
1. Remove the stock plate on the back of the stock (2 screws)
2. Remove the stock retention bolt
3. Put on new stock.
And no the gun is not 11.1v lipo ready. However it will take to a 7.4V lipo very well.
G&G. No question. The new MK36X is a step up from the one i owned...I had the 7mm ball bearing one...I think it made it 10k before complete gearbox failure. Broken piston head, stripped piston, stripped spur gear, stripped bevel gear, broken spring guide...
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_55&products_id=1233
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_47&products_id=3750
The tightbore and 9.6V will help with both ROF and FPS you requested...all for $60.
Yes it will fit in an MOE handguard. It's basically the 9.6V 2000mah nunchuck style of battery with 1 extra cell added to it. It should fit just fine...just be careful of battery wires as they can come lose.
With the earlier generations of the JBU 6.03mm tightbores they had problems fitting into some hop up units. I'm sure they've fixed that problem by now. Madbull Black Python barrels are made to a higher standard than the JBU's. I'd recommend them. But if they're out of stock...the JBU's will work just fine.
Both are great companies at making AK variants. The CM will have a stronger gearbox and external build than the CYMA plastic bodied AK's...but they dont make metal and wood AK's like CYMA does. I would take the CYMA...but I havent heard anything bad about the CM RK47. One advantage the CM has is battery space. I fit my 9.6 4200mah in my teammates just for kicks.
It's a lever inside the gearbox called the cut off lever. When you have the gun on semi the cut off lever stops the sector gear after every revolution. When the gun is set to full auto the cut off lever is disengaged and the sector gear can go through it's cycle without impingement.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-5th-gen-4x40-full-size-range-estimating-mil-dot-red-green-illuminated-ze-eacfbb.html
It's a little more expensive but a far superior scope. It's only 4 power...perfect for airsoft.
The G&G hop up unit gears are very stiff. Just keep adjusting it until you notice the hop working. Also if it is a new gun the hop up bucking needs at least a 1000 round break in period to work correctly.
No. That setup is the one I prefer. The steel gears will mesh better with the polycarb piston than they will a full metal tooth piston. Metal on metal is not good for gears or the metal piston teeth. And since gear sets usually cost more...I'd stick with a polycarb piston with no more than 4-6 rows of metal teeth.
We play a gametype called "Glob Tag". You start out as a free for all. Once a player is "hit" they are fair game to get tagged in by any of the remaining players. It will come down to all VS 1 in the end and once he is out...the game is over. They're fast and fun games.
The ICS Turbo3000 motor is a hybrid motor leaning towards more torque. The rate of fire will be slower...but you can over come that with a more powerful battery.
Excluding environmental effects, the hop up rubber, hop up nub shape (SHS or 2GX bucking), the weight and shape of the projectile, and inner diameter have the greatest effect on accuracy. The length of the barrel will only matter if the cylinder is made for that barrel. Typically the longer the barrel the more volume of air it needs to propel the bb down its path. If you have an M16 length barrel and an M4 gearbox (ported cylinder) your range will suffer due to insufficient air volume. Some of the most accurate airsoft gun's I've owned (stock ones anyway) are the shorter barreled guns...ex MP5.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_334&products_id=7465
That barrel should fit it. If you want to put in an M170 spring you'll need a reinforced trigger sear set and piston.
No it will not fit. That battery is to large for that stock. You could however buy a battery bag and run the wires into that and hold the battery off to the side of the crane stock.
I think I understand your question. If the charger says its output is 9.6v (greater than 8.4) then you can charge the 9.6v battery. If you charge a battery that isn't made for the charger (an 8.4v battery on a 9.6v charger) it will eventually damage the battery cells. I highly recommend purchasing a smart charger.
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/batteries-chargers/chargers/universal-smart-charger-for-ni-mh-batteries.html
The UTG is the best L96 platform. The TSD is equal to it...but the warranty isnt as good. If you save your money you can buy the best one available.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_113&products_id=7471
I would remove the spacers. They'll increase the wear on your gearbox. If you want more fps you can increase your compression (airseal, tightbore barrel) or put a more powerful spring in it.
The magazine might not be seating right...or not wound up enough to adequately feed the bb into the hop up chamber...it might only be catching part of the bb because it's not seated correctly.
If the madbull propane adapter has a metal end it could have punctured the valves in all of your magazines. If the slide doesnt lock back it means you're not getting enough pressure...from the leaky mags.
It will work but it might require additional fitment with the lower receiver. If you're going to upgrade to a metal body purchase a lower and upper receiver at the same time.
They get a bad rep because of their price point but I think they're great introductory guns. A teammate of mine has shot 100,000+ through his CYMA AK74....the stock is broken and its missing a few parts but it still shoots great. For the money they're great guns. Another option you could take is the Combat Machine RK47. It's a little more expensive but worth the extra money.
Yes if you exclude the external build. Considering it's almost half the price of the others...It wont have the velocity of the others...but it's a good,solid AEG.
JG guns will lose some fps after they start to break in. They dont have irregular pitch springs installed so the spring will shrink a small amount with normal use. I wouldnt worry about it to much.
The JG M4 is easier to fix should you have problems...but both guns will last about the same with normal use. The G36C is more unique than an M4...that could be a pro or a con depending on your perspective.
The metal version is worth it. Not saying the plastica one is bad but the metal one's internal construction is superior. The internals for the metal one include: ball bearing spring guide, ball bearing piston head, 8mm ball bearing bushings and (obviously) a 6.035mm tightbore. If you want to save money get the plastica as it will be a great gun...either way is a win.
hold the tip in boiling water for 2-3mins and try to screw it off. If that doesnt work...use a dremel tool to cut the side of the flash hider and peel it off.
The VFC will be the best choice followed closely by the ICS. The G&G blowback will be a great choice as well...it's just not in the other two's price range.
With a stock G&G you might as well get a red dot sight.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/red-dot-scopes-by-price-1.html
Any scope over 29.99 will have free shipping.
Both guns are great in their respective price range. I purchased my G&G Proline M4 and have put 70,000 through it...without any problems and it still performs like the first time I fired it...Just giving you another option in that price range.
You can mount two of them. I would go for the leapers brand rail...they come in a two pack.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-deluxe-m4-m-16-ar-15-handguard-picatinny-rails-mnt-hgr16s.html
The gearbox is metal. My well MP5A5 has decent internal build quality. You'd be safe using a 9.6V. The 1.2V difference between the batteries is too small to cause it to damage your gun. As far mah goes a 9.6V compared to a 8.4V with the same mah...the 9.6V will last longer as it is more powerful and spins the motor easier. It should last you 3-4hrs of play with normal trigger time.
It's sorta the "luck of the draw" scenario. I've seen JG M4's break in under 2000rds and I've also seen them going strong at 50,000+. No airsoft gun is unbreakable. Stuff just wears out. Most of the time it's drive train components. Piston, piston head, gears, motor.
AEG mean Automatic Electric Gun. Yes JG does make a model with a folding stock. They give it a "paratrooper" look to a regular M4.
http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ERM-JG-M4PD-615.htm
http://www.airsplat.com/Items/ERM-JG-M4CQ-614.htm
http://www.mechbox.com/
That website is a great place to start. It should give you baseline information for which you can upgrade or downgrade your AEG. I hope this helps.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_25_86&products_id=2533
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_25_86&products_id=6612
These are 2 great options from KJW. There are better ones in a higher price range.
You have a couple options. 1. Dive in and take it apart. 2. Have a pro dive in and take it apart. I say go for it and do it yourself. It's a great learning experience that will help you in your airsoft career/hobby. There are plenty of online tutorials that can help you along. A simple spring swap is very easy to do.
Internally they're identical. All you have to decide now which gun you like more based on aesthetics, battery space, RIS or lack thereof, and overall appearance. The choice is yours.
It depends on what you want your second rifle to do for you. If you want to switch between your primary to a sniper rifle get the snow wolf. If not then get the M16V.
The Dboys M4S has a high torque motor in it. Higher torque motors draw more power than standard and high speed motors do. You can stay at an 8.4V you'll just need more mah. If that doesnt work upgrade to a 9.6V battery.
It's probly not to bad if you get a good deal on shipping. The website is based in Hong Kong. Shipping can be pricy depending upon what is being shipped.
CNC means Computer Numerical Control. It means that a computer controlled machine cut the metal into its shape. The computer/machine can make very precise cuts into the metal...ones that a person could not do without difficulty.
Yes it would be well under 400fps. Probly around 340-360 range. That "dinging" sound could be the charging handle spring being vibrated by the gearbox. My old JG M16 had the same problem.
It's an incentive for new players to buy them. I thought "more is better" my first few months into the sport. You'll learn that it really isnt the case. My current G&G M16 shoots appox 40-50fps lower than my JG did...and still is more accurate and has the same range.
The best upgrade you can buy is a tightbore barrel. I threw mine in my old JG M16 and it did wonders. I recommend the Madbull Black Python 6.03mm 509mm length tightbore. I wouldnt upgrade the internals until something breaks or needs replaced.
1. New piston & piston head (hard polycarb type)
2. New wiring harness
3. New motor
4. New gearset (quality set with excellent shim job)
That's the minimum I would do to an E90 to handle a lipo. It can handle a 7.4V lipo just fine. It will give you performance similar to a 9.6V NiMh battery.
http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/NEW_KJW_Full_Metal_M1911_Tactical_Package_Black_p/gbb-615b.htm
Here's a better one. Parts are easier to find and you have the ability to use green gas and CO2.
Echo1 MP5 will be better than the galaxy MP5. The E1 will have metal bushings while the Galaxy will have plastic bushings. I'm sure the E1 will also have Madbull blue bucking installed. Overall a superior choice.
The Madbull buckings usually do come with spare nubs.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_170&products_id=4177
There are videos that can explain it on youtube. Its a easy process.
It all depends on how much you want to carry on you. If you want to carry a hydration carrier, 10 magazines, spare battery etc a vest is a good idea. I use both a vest and a belt mounted magazine pouch. The cheapest route is to buy a couple of MOLLE mag pouches and attach them to a secure belt on your hip. It gives you freedom of movement and is cheap and easy to start out with.
A silicone based spray can be used to break in the mags. It should only be used to break them in. Only a few drops or a tiny amount of spray is needed to do so. If you get it locally check the label as some are harmful to certain plastics.
If the hop up isn't engaging it could be one of two things. The hop up nub is missing or the hop up isn't installed correctly. Try disassembling the hop up unit and then reassembling it.
6.03. 6.01mm tightbore barrels require freqent cleaning. If you're up to the responsibility then get the 6.01. If not a 6.03mm is a good choice as well.
Both are great guns but have 2 different designs. The ICS has the split gearbox design which is more realistic. The G&P has great externals while still utilizing the TM style V2 gearbox. Most G&P guns come with deans connectors so you'll have to modify/purchase batteries accordingly. You didn't list it but another contender for you is a G&G proline M4. I've put 70,000rds through mine and it still performs like new. Just a thought.
No that player is mistaken. I have the 6.01mm Madbull tightbore barrels in my G&G's with 2GX bucking. They work perfectly. You shouldnt have any problems.
Like the lobby said...they're all great guns. I would go with the G&G or G&P. The reason being is that they're %100 Tokyo Marui compatible guns. That equates to innumerable upgrades both internally and externally. ICS makes great guns too...just they're not as adaptable as the other two. In the end you'd like any of the guns listed.
1. If the charge says it has an output of 8.4V don't charge a 9.6V battery with it.
2. If the Mah output is 250mah X 8hrs = 2000mah = overcharging a 1600mah
3. Buy a smart charger and a new battery.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=7653
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=6058
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=7428
These should be what you're looking for.
Your options are wide open at that price range. I bought my G&G M4 with a 6.01mm tightbore for $300. I would go with the VFC or the G&G. KWA and ICS are also great options.
The cold prevents the chemical reaction inside the battery cells to take place. The only way to prevent the decrease in performance is to keep them warm. The method to keep them warm depends on where the battery is stored in your gun. Try thermal tape.
The dytactical looks suspect to me. The G&P one would be a good choice. Here is another option that retains the looks of a micro T1.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/barska-1x20mm-ir-red-dot-sight-w-2-moa-ir-reticle.html
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-golden-image-30mm-red-green-dot-scope-scp-rd40rgw.html
I had this red dot for 2 years using the same battery. It's a great all around red dot.
I had problems with my sportline G&G's air seal. The O-ring they installed was to small to provide good compression. If you have an old JG laying around remove the o-ring from that and use it on the G&G piston head.
They're both great guns. I have a G&G M16A3 and it's one of the best gun's I've owned. I'm sure you'll be completely satisfied with either choice. If you're looking to save money go with the G&G, if not go with the VFC.
A teammate of mine has the same pistol with the same problem. It's a design flaw of the mags...they're simply not large enough to house enough gas to effectively work. I would try the CO2 mags you can purchase separately. He hasnt had a problem with those and can refill his mags twice before changing the CO2 cartridge.
There are two different price points for these guns. It's similar comparing a Ferrari to a Corvette...both are good...but a Ferrari is better. I would go with the ICS but you'd be satisfied with both guns.
The G&G will be the better gun. Their Combat Machine line is the best selling plastic bodied airsoft guns in the business right now. They are great right out of the box and are ready to take any upgrades you wish to install. They are definitely worth buying.
Either one is a good choice. Your choices are a unique gun (ACR) or a great out of the box performer (GR15). Either one will need a tightbore barrel for best performance.
Better is a subjective word. If you like revolvers it is better...if not the 1911 is better. The G&G is made to a higher standard so I'm sure it will last longer and give you more consistent performance.
They'll both shoot great based on what they're designed to be used for. The MP5 is a shorter cqb type of gun while the M4 is more of a field gun. I'd say the choice is yours. Either one you'd be satisfied with.
It can use a 7.4V lipo without any problems. However you would have to overhaul your gearbox to be able to handle an 11.1Vlipo. You're looking at at least $100 in upgrade parts.
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/airsoft-guns/aegs/a-k-m60-vn-aeg.html
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/airsoft-guns/aegs/a-k-m60-vn-aeg-143.html
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/airsoft-guns/aegs/a-k-m249-mk1-saw.html
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/airsoft-guns/aegs/a-k-m249-para-saw.html
You have plenty of options....depending on how much you're willing to spend.
I would skirmish with it before you throw all the upgrades in. The only thing I would change right out of the box is the hop up bucking and add a tightbore barrel.
You will be able to put a rail system on it...but you'll have to find a place for the wires to go. I have the Proline GR16 and I bought a polymer rail for the bottom handguard....a much cheaper option than a full blown rail system. As for the battery a 9.6V Intellect nun chuck style of battery.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-utg-pro-made-in-usa-model-4-carbine-length-tactical-quad-rails.html
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-deluxe-m4-m-16-ar-15-handguard-picatinny-rails-mnt-hgr16s.html
http://www.milspecairsoft.com/index.php/batteries-chargers/9-6v/intellect-9-6v-2000-mah-nunchuck-battery.html
If you rapid charge a battery you can damage the cells. My guess is that's what happened. You'll need a new battery as the chemistry of the battery cells are altered.
In airsoft the difference is the length of the barrel and had guards (M16 = 509mm barrel, 12inch hand guards - M4 = 363mm barrel, 7inch hand guards) and the stock configuration (M16 has a full stock - M4 has a retractable [LE] Law Enforcement stock).
It depends on what type of game you plan to participate in. The M16 is good for field use while the M4 Raider is more of a cqb weapon. Both are great guns.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_237&products_id=3542
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_148&products_id=1431
The piston is out of stock on GI...I'd look for it elsewhere.
I'd recommend the G&G sportline series...not to be confused with the Combat Machine line.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_237&products_id=3542
Yes and no. They're fast to ship and process your order...but they lack the quality control standards that other companies have set. I would try evike.com , milspecairsoft.com, and airsoftgi.com
The SAS vest depends on the operator. They're allowed to customize their gear for the specific mission they are tasked to complete. A standard black vest (cross draw or MOLLE) would work as a suitable replacement.
Polycarb all the way. Unless you're gun has the STS system you shouldnt run an aluminum piston. A hybrid piston, one with polycarb body with some metal teeth. The System piston and the G&G SNC piston are the best polycarb ones made. I'd start there.
KWA is pushing the threshold one gearbox design. They're pushing the performance to the limit of what the materials can handle. The gears are a hybrid high torque and high speed design. If they strip it's because they're pushing a heavy spring faster than the gears can withstand. My teammates M16 and SR12 both had gears or pistons or both strip on him multiple times. My other teammates SR10 has been upgrade with an M140...and it shoots perfectly fine and has for quite some time. They're worth the money as KWA will back their warranty....but keep in mind that you're essentially buying a "thoroughbred horse" that is on the edge of amazing performance and total gearbox drive train failure....Some will have awesome performance...some will have utter failure....no AEG is invincible.
No they are not compatible. The mag dimensions and construction on the King Arms is slightly different from the JG. Different enough so they wont work in each other.
KWA's gearbox internals are built specifically for that gearbox. That's not to say other parts dont work...you'll just have to look more carefully at parts. A teammate of mine has an M140 in his SR10...its the only thing he upgraded and it still shoots at over 20rps.
Those parts you listed will be fine. Like REDARMY said...a good shim job is necessary. You'll want a 9.6v battery with at least 3000mah. The larger cells have a higher discharge rating...this overcomes the motor being slow or a gear lock up due to insufficient power. You'll also see a drop in ROF due to the higher torque gears. A good motor and battery will overcome that.
Yeah I forgot that I answered your previous question...my bad lol that battery should pull it just fine. I would stick to semi auto as much as possible...save your gears, motor and shell.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_25_86&products_id=6612
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_25_86&products_id=3789
These are a little more expensive that the price range you listed...But they have the ability to use CO2 and green gas/propane. The FPS is around 350 with CO2...just the right amount...after all...it's a pistol not a sniper rifle.
No they're not as harmful to gearboxes as the 11.1v lipos. The voltage rating is low enough to safely power the motor while the chemistry of lipo cells allows for an increase rate of fire despite the low voltage. They have very similar performances to a 9.6V NiMh battery.
There are minor external differences (obviously) and all they change internally is the spring from an M100 to and M110 or M120. I would recommend getting the base G&G....better warranty.
Yes. UTG (high end) AEG's are somewhat of a "little secret" in the airsoft community. They're assembled and build (excluding the gearbox) in the USA. They have a 120 day manufactures warranty and come with tons of accessories made for real firearms. The gearbox is constructed in China to keep costs low...but with a great warranty and %100 marui compatible gearbox you cant go wrong.
I would replace the gun with a better one. SRC and KWA make great G36's rifles. The price (obviously) depends on the brand/quality. If you want a serious G36...get a KWA.
I have the Condor Spec Ops plate carrier. It's just the right size to have enough MOLLE real estate while giving you plenty of maneuverability. I have 4 Condor Kangaroo pouches and an admin pouch on the front of mine. But that's my set up. You could easily configure it to hold 12+ mags. I give it my recommendation.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/revision-eyewear-desert-locust-basic-clear-kit.html
http://www.opticsplanet.net/revision-military-eyewear-anti-fog-cloth.html
I have these goggles and they work great for knocking down the fog. No goggle is 100% fog proof...but these goggles coupled with the anti fog cleaning cloths work wonders.
G&G/TopTech are the only company with a pneumatic blow back system. Both the CYMA and Echo1's systems are mechanical in design. I say go with the Echo1.
G&G owns the patent for the pneumatic system...it could be possible they licensed the system to CYMA. Either way a gun shooting 430fps will have greater potential for failure. The blowback system might not cause the failure but that potential is still there. Both manufactures are great at building AK AEG's. I'm sure Echo1 has CYMA as their OEM AK builder....either way I think you'd be satisfied with the CYMA or the Echo1.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-4x32-9inch-compact-scope-5-5inch-long-eye-relief-angled-obj-scp-432mdlwts.html
This one has 5.5inches of eye relief...it should work perfect with your m14.
Just put a tightbore in the G&G and save some money to build up your kit. At the 1J velocities all the guns will perform relatively the same. The only difference between them will be the externals. If you're going to use an 11.1V lipo go with the KWA or the VFC. Be warned though at 1J (330fps) the KWA's will have a gear/piston timing issue and will short stroke then gun. This wont be a big deal unless you hold the trigger down for longer than 3 seconds.
1. Yes it will fit. Make sure it is the Magpul PTS MOE stock and not just Magpul MOE.
2. The front sight appears to be molded to the outer barrel. You'll have to cut the sight. I would suggest leaving it as the ACOG replica will clear the front sight. Check out the Madbull G5 Gemtech suppressor. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_39&products_id=3480
3. Yes it will take the Pmag. It depends on what brand you buy as some will have seating problems in the magwell.
Like clayyalc said...a massive internal overhaul would be needed to support an M140 spring. You're looking at the same price (if not more) than the price of the gun. It is not needed. At most an M120 is all the stock components can handle.
M110 spring
Tightbore Barrel
Systema Standard Ratio gears
G&G SNC piston
New wiring harness.
You're looking at over $100 bucks to get it ready. I only listed the bare essentials.
The stock G&G motor will pull an M120. You'll need a larger (voltage or mah) to help the motor compensate for the increase in resistance from the m120 spring.
Clean your barrel and it's probly due to a poorly made barrel. I recommend buying a tightbore barrel for it. That twang sound is the charging handle spring being vibrated by the piston hitting the cylinder head.
Yes. Intellect cells have a higher discharge rate than other similar batteries. If you're going to purchase one get an Intellect 1600mah 9.6V nunchuck.
What I use is a Condor sniper veil. It breathes better than my Under Armour Tactical balaclava. It has a nice cushion shoot a bb strike the veil. I doubt anyone could lose a tooth wearing one.
You can use the stock air nozzle with a new hop up unit. I'm not sure you really even need to replace the hop up unit if it works just fine. The most important airseal places in a gearbox are between the piston/piston head and the cylinder and the cylinder head and air nozzle.
First purchase a smart charger. They're inexpensive at around $25-$35. Next look for a Ni-Cd discharger. As an option you should purchase a Ni-mh battery as they have a high tolerance threshold for charging/discharging abuse.
I havent seen any good electric 1911 pistols of merit. I'm not sure if they exist. And I don't want to speak for crazyncman but he probly isnt going to review a gun you purchased from another website other than milspecairsoft.com. If he starts carrying the particular model you bought he just might review it.
It requires some knowledge of a gearbox. You can either try it yourself or have it professionally installed. I would suggest a tightbore barrel. They're inexpensive and easy to install. I would try the barrel first...then if the performance isnt to your liking have the tune up kit installed.
It's about average for an AEG. It's tough to give you an exact number due to the variable fps range but I can safely say it will easily shoot 100ft+. A tightbore barrel will also increase that number. Overall a solid purchase for your first AEG. Kudos for ordering a KAC (Knight's Armament Company) style of gun.
Yes. Green gas and propane are chemically the same. Green gas has silicone added to it during it's manufacturing process. So if you use propane you'll have to add silicone yourself.
A team mate of mine has sent back both his SR-12 and KM16BR back multiple times. No airsoft gun is invincible...but marui compatible guns (like vfc g&g etc) can easily be fixed by the user. Not to say that KWA's are junk guns...they can have problems like any other AEG.
It can be done to an M4...but the SR25 in that video is heavily modified. Classic Army Makes a sniper grip that dampens the motor whine and Systema makes a silent piston head/cylinder set that dampens the sound on the receiving end. This would give you a good start.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_52&products_id=770
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_138&products_id=1799
No modification is needed when going from an 8.4v to a 9.6v. I highly recommend Intellect brand batteries. They're one of the (if not the) top Nimh battery brands in airsoft.
When looking to improve the airseal there are really only 4 parts you'll need to look at (excluding the TTB). The cylinder head, cylinder (ported or non ported), air nozzle (you want one with an o-ring) and piston head. On a budget I would change the piston head and the air nozzle.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_265&products_id=2275
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_148&products_id=6240
I'm sure they have them on other online retailers since the Bravo one is out of stock.
G&G TopTech M4 blowback. The overall construction is top not as TopTech is G&G's premier line of guns. Internally the TT has a pneumatic blow back system that doesnt transfer any stress into the gearbox. Inside the gearbox are 8mm ball bearing bushings, CNC'd aluminum piston head, ball bearing spring guide, metal cylinder head, low resistance wiring, and steel selector plate control arm. It's (needless to say) far superior to the Classic Army.
A new tightbore will increase accuracy and range. I would recommend the Madbull Black Python 6.03mm barrels. Yours will need to be 363mm in length. You should have any problems if you dont clean it often...but regardless of diameter...a clean barrel is an accurate barrel. As far as ammo goes I would try .23's and if those aren't readily available then try .25's.
The inner barrel for the G&G is 357mm...you are right...the Madbull black python barrel is 6mm longer...you wont even notice this amount. They retail anywhere between $30-$40. Very reasonable.
No they are very easy to install. First set your hop up to zero. Next remove the magazine from the gun. Get a screwdriver or something small to depress the front receiver pin. It has a catch on it so dont tap the front pin to hard. Next just slide off the top receiver and take out the barrel & hopup assembly. Turn the hop up upside down and remove the hop up clip. Proceed to take out the front barrel spacer (brass in color) and slide the barrel and bucking out of the hop up unit. Remove the bucking and place it on your new barrel and then reassemble in reverse order. Simple.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Sj_9yPwxPc
Having a MOLLE vest allows you to configure your vest how you want/need it. However they're not for everyone. If you can pick up an army surplus LBV then go for it. If you decide you dont like it...you're only out $20.
The 450rd G&G mags take alot of winding to properly feed the gun. Wind it until you hear a click then see how many it will fire. If you still have problems it is a defective mag.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-4x32-9inch-compact-scope-5-5inch-long-eye-relief-angled-obj-scp-432mdlwts.html
This scope is perfect for a DMR setup. It has 5.5inches of eye relief and is compact enough to not give your gun a "sniper" look instead of a DMR.
My old setup was 13 MAG 130rd mid cap magazines. They work really well after a break in period. You can find them at most of the major online retailers....airsoftgi, evike, etc.
The stock motor (G&G) with the mosfet would easily pull it with an 11.1v lipo battery. Please be careful when using lipo batteries...they can destroy your gun very fast if not used properly.
Your best bet would be to get the AGM VSR-10 and upgrade it. All others have been excluded by your preferences. Here are some that could work:
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_113&products_id=5735
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_113&products_id=1898
GBB rifles are the most realistic airsoft gun you can get. However they are very expensive to buy and maintain. I havent seen a gas rifle mag go for under $35. If you have the money I would say go for it...but it's still a gamble.
It's appox 8lbs and 39inches in length. The 2gx gearbox is the strongest gearbox shell made. It has copious amounts of reinforcement in all the high stress areas of a gearbox. According to KWA it can handle an M150 spring without any modifications...although they strongly advise against such an upgrade.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_113&products_id=7404
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_113&products_id=6572
Those are the best 2 out of the box sniper rifles in that price range.
They're not to bad. I had mine for a year before the selector switch control arm broke. This doesnt happen very often so you should have nothing to worry about. I recommend buying from airsoftgi. They test every AEG before shipping it to you.
Airsplat isnt bad...their quality control isnt very good though. I would get it from milspec or airsoftgi. Airsoftgi tests all their guns before shipping them to you.
There isnt a lack of material...just a different name. I've only heard it as the KM4RIS.
http://www.kwausa.com/products_m4ris.html
I had a teammate who had one. It seemed like a good gun. It's on par with the VFC E-series of guns.
Both are worth the money. KWA and G&G are two of the top brands in the industry. Both perform well out of the box. The only thing to keep in mind is that the G&G is readily Marui compatible. Finding upgrade/spare parts will be much easier than the KWA. That being said KWA's are built solid too and are the best performing AEG out of the box. The choice is yours.
You will need the following:
20inch outer barrel
509mm tightbore
Triangle front sight or gas block
RIS or m16 handguards.
You're looking at at least $100 minimum unless you find a boneyard m16 you can use for parts.
The only way to change the fps in your gbb pistol is to change the gas itself. It you have a green gas gun...switching to CO2 will give you more fps. However if your gun isn't built to handle Co2 parts will break faster.
Both guns are fantastic. My G&G hasnt failed me yet. It will all boil down to which one do you like most. The KWA will shoot harder but FPS doesnt make the gun.
My teammate has had his over a year. He hasnt encountered any problems. It's got a high torque motor so it eats batteries pretty quick but thats a minor problem. I would recommend getting a new barrel for it...the one that came with my teammates was...well...bent.
You shouldnt encounter to many problems if you take care of it. The carrying handle is not removable but it does allow an optic mount through a hole in the center of the handle.
I agree 100% with crazyNCman. Internally CA is a crap shoot. If you stick to semi (hopefully) you wont encounter a problem. If you do there are always spare parts available. Or buy a regular m4 and get an XM177 flash hider and stock.
Their performance's are neck and neck right out of the box. My teammates sport both rifles and they're both great. I personally would pick the VFC over the KWA. More upgrade potential, lower cost, and you wont have to worry about parts compatibility should something break.
I havent seen that particular model but a teammate has the regular m4 e-series gun. I was very impressed by it. It's a top contender for the best m4 platform under $300.
It sounds like the battery isnt powerful enough to effectively power the motor to pull the spring. I'd recommend trying a larger Mah battery or a 9.6V.
It doesnt die...It just doesnt like to work. The cold impedes the chemical reaction inside the battery necessary to fire the gun. If you can keep the battery warm you can play until it is fully discharged.
No that battery would not fit inside the RIS of that gun. There are 2 spacers that keep the RIS inline with the receiver. You'd be hard pressed to find a battery that would fit in there. As far as a smart charger...go with the Universal or the HiTech smart charger.
Shipping depends on where you live. It could take 3 days or it could take 10. As far as a lipo I wouldnt go above 11.1V 20C. I've seen to many KWA's fall to anything rated higher than that.
Your E1 SCAR will need an E1 hop up replacement. The air nozzle and hop up unit are unique to the SCAR. A one piece hop up unit is (in most cases) better than a 2 piece. My G&G's hop up units are plastic...and they work fantastic.
Yeah it would serve you well in the woods. And I would recommend a red dot sight of some kind...the TAR21 isnt a sniper rifle so there really isnt a need for a scope.
Get a tightbore, good optic and leave it at that. To make it lipo ready and 500fps capable would require a massive overhaul of your gearbox...hundreds of dollars worth.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_404&products_id=7429
It's not $350...but if you like the gun style its the best one currently available.
Echo1 isnt bad. They differ from JG in that their guns are built to their specifications by JG. Hence why you see JG guns that E1 doesnt have and vice versa. E1's quality control has stepped it up a notch...but will fall short in terms of consistency compared to the higher end manufacturers. Almost everyone of my teammates had an E1 at one time. Most didnt make it past 10,000rds.
Combat Machine M4's and GR15 Raiders come stock with an m100 spring installed and 8mm bushings. If you want to increase your fps the easiest upgrade is a tightbore barrel.
If you drop it...put it on safe and dont touch the trigger. Secondly remove the battery...and third hang the gun up to dry. Wait a week and see if it works.
G&G is based out of Taiwan while G&P is based out of Hong Kong. They're about equivalent in terms of quality they just have different emphasis in different areas. G&P makes more aftermarket parts and G&G has a wider array of guns.
You are correct, the hop up bucking and nub are for accuracy. Which type depends on the velocity of your gun. A good bucking that can handle up to 380fps is the G&G. It's green in color. I've had bad experiences with Classic Army but they're not as terrible as people make them out to be.
The GR15 Raider has great internals. The best upgrade you can do is install a tightbore barrel...very easy to do. If you use .23 and have a tightbore (6.03mm) you'll be pleased.
They can use virtually any m4/m16 style of mags. The 416 will have problems with Thermold style mags as the magwell is shallower than a normal m4's magwell.
If you're talking about the "single stack" 1911 there is nothing you can do as it is a design flaw. The mags are simply to small to house enough gas to propel all of the rounds from the magazine. If you can buy a Co2 mag for it...you should be able to get all of your rounds out without a problem.
The easiest way to increase your guns fps is to add a tightbore barrel. They can add anywhere between 10-20fps depending on the barrel (6.05, 6.03, 6.01). If you want more fps (like the other users have said) change out the spring for a harder one. With a 6.03 tightbore barrel and an M120 spring the internals should hold up just fine. The stock motor would have trouble turning an M130 spring...so if you decide on an M130 spring you'll need a new motor for starters. I would stick with the barrel upgrade and an M120 spring. That would put you around 400fps.
I purchased the exact gun from airsplat when I was starting out. It maybe shot 1000rds before the gears stripped....on a 7.2V battery. I agree with clayyalc...if you're starting out and want an MP5 AEG...get a basic JG MP5. I've owned several of them and they're great starter guns.
I've had their proline M4 for about a year and have put 60,000+ rounds through it. Works just as good as the day I received it. One of the best (if not the best) M4 variant in its price range.
Only KWA guns are "lipo ready". That being said you can use a smaller lipo battery...example being a 7.4V 20C 1100mah lipo. They're not built to handle the 11.1V lipos.
Ares make quality airsoft guns. If you're looking for that style of gun KWA,Ares, and SRC are all good guns.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKd5_lTGKQI
Yes it would fit. I think the Madbull Ultimate Hop-Up is way overpriced for what you get. Unless you're going to purchase the LED unit, I would just keep the stock hop up unit. I would recommend a tightbore barrel and Systema hop up bucking.
They're all basically the same. Top, HFC134a,HFC22 are used primarily in the Asian markets due to heavier airsoft gun restrictions as they yield a lower fps. Green gas is chemically the same as propane...the difference is they add silicone instead of that distinct "rotten egg" odor. I wouldnt worry about the other gases...as their more expensive and harder to find.
If the can says it's safe to use on rubber and plastic it's safe to use. Avoid anything that contains petroleum distillates as these are corrosive to plastic and rubber for example WD40 and other penetrating oils.
The only M4 style of GBB rifle I could find in that price range is the WE Scar:
http://www.blowbackarmory.net/WE_Full_Metal_MK16_Gas_Blowback_Airsoft_Rifle_p/rifle_we_mk16g3.htm
A good quality GBB M4 is out of that price range... $300+.
Either gun would be a good choice. The CM are easier to upgrade (for starters) but ICS's sport great internals. I would see what you can afford after all of the accessories (mags, red dots etc) then make your decision.
Umarex has the licensing and is contracted with VFC to make the 416. I would recommend both....but I've seen to many KWA's breakdown within 5000rds. Go with the VFC. There are more aftermarket parts...easier compatibility....and they're amazing guns.
The KJW 1911 Tactical is a great gbb pistol. It has great ammo capacity and has the flexibility to use CO2 if propane/green gas isnt readily available. Mine hasnt had any problems.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_25_86&products_id=3789
Your best bet is the 1911 Tactical by KJW. Easily available parts (marui compatible) high mag capacity and can use both CO2 and green gas/propane....all at around 125bucks.
Both are respectable companies. I have two G&G proline GR16's. My M4 has had over 60,000rds put through it and still performs like the day I received it. However both have good quality internals so either choice is a good choice.
Yes it will fit. You'll have to dremel cut the flashhider off to put on the silencer on. G&G uses some industrial strength threadlock when putting on their flashhiders....they're almost impossible to get off.
They both have their advantages. The folding stock gives you more flexibility while the full stock allows for a larger battery equating to a longer play time. You just have to decide which one is more important to you.
Tactical Airsoft Supply sells a bracket that prevents v2 gearbox shells from breaking. I also airsoft in cold weather and the guns can handle themselves...It's the batteries and hop up bucking that dont like to work in the cold.
Since the G&G Xtreme45 is proprietary there arent alot of aftermarket parts for it. You'd be better off getting a green gas/propane powered pistol. Look at WE, KJW, Tokyo Marui.
The internal on very similar between the CM, Raiders, and sportline GR16's. The CM's will have a 1piece molded outer barrel, and a blue aluminum cylinder. All the other differences are external...with the exception of the different barrel lengths.
The only RIS handguards that I've seen that can fit batteries in them are on some of the higher end UTG aeg's. If you can find a boneyard one buy it and use it for parts. I'll give you a link showing you what I'm taking about.
http://www.leapers.com/prod_detail.php?mitem=airso&level1=&level2=&itemno=SOFT-M4C28B&status=&mtrack=m#
G&G is a better manufacturer than Echo1. Other brands to consider are Ares, VFC, KWA, Tokyo Marui, ICS. I've worked on several Classic Army guns...most were broken under 10,000rds.
Snow wont break your gun. Just be careful not to get any into the gearbox and wiring of your AEG. Cold will have a negative effect on your hop up bucking and all of the polycarbonate and plastic components of your aeg.
The standard battery for an AEG is an 8.4V. The larger the cells, the higher the mah, the longer playing time and a slightly faster rate of fire due to the larger cells discharge rate. When looking at a battery think of the battery like a car. The voltage (8.4, 9.6) is the horsepower while the Mah rating is the gas tank. So obviously a battery with more voltage will give you a faster rate of fire/ decreased trigger response.
Just dropping in an m130 spring will damage the gun. If you want to increase your fps the easiest upgrade is a tightbore barrel. You're looking at anywhere between 10 and 20fps increase depending on the barrel.
No the gearbox would not be able to handle the m130 spring as is. You would also have to upgrade the motor and battery.
The Leapers Swatforce Red/Green dot sight is the best red dot for the money. I've had mine for 2 years and its been through hell. I would also get a riser that is at least 1/2 inch in height so you can co-witness the red dot with your iron sights.
You will notice an increase in accuracy when upgrading from a stock to a 6.03mm tightbore. If you want to see an even greater increase upgrade to a 6.01mm tightbore. Just be sure to use quality ammo and clean the barrel after every game.
FPS doesn't make the gun. My guns run stock internals with upgraded hop up bucking and 6.01mm tightbores. I use Madbull 6.01mm tightbores and KWA 2GX hop up buckings for both of my guns.
You really can't go wrong with either. Choose which one you like more. Just keep in mind battery space, fps (cqb or field applicable) and what you intend to use it for (support,assault ect).
The higher the fps the harder the bucking has to be. It also goes the other way. The lower the fps the softer the bucking. Look at Systema, G&G, and KWA buckings.
The internals will be the exact same except for the pneumatic blowback components. The Combat Machine is the most basic AEG's G&G makes. Their sportline versions have the same internals and externals except for graphics and other minor things. The sportlines also have a functional charging handle while the Combat Machine Line does not.
The Magpul PTS Masada is the highest quality Masada (ACR) you can get....for one simple reason. Magpul designed the Masada/ACR. Way higher quality control and quality in general...hence the price difference between the A&K version.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-utg-0-83-medium-profile-riser-mounts-for-rifles-with-picatinny-weaver-rail-mo.html
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-golden-image-30mm-red-green-dot-scope-scp-rd40rgw.html
Get'em both and get free shipping.
Step 1. If your gun is not a KWA...then it is not lipo ready.
Step 2. Buy said KWA or...
Step 3. Complete overhaul of gearbox and motor. You will need the following : Stronger gear set, stronger piston & piston head, stronger motor, reinforced gearbox shell, larger bushings, stronger tappet plate, new cylinder head (one with a larger damper).
If your gun isnt a KWA and you dont want to dump money into your gun (you dont need to but most guns are not built to handle a lipo out of the box) I would just stick with NiMh 9.6v batteries.
G&G hands down. My GR16 (M4A1) has just seen its 60,000th round passed through it (since April 2010) and I have never had any problems with it. It sounds and shoots like the day I bought it. Classic Army guns are not terrible but like NaziZombie said they're hit and miss. The internals for the G&G are far superior than that of Classic Army.
If you take care of your barrel and clean it after every game a 6.01mm will take care of you. They dont jam as often as you would think. I've put 60,000+ through my GR16 all with a 6.01mm and have never had a jam. One thing you will notice when it gets dirty is a massive drop in accuracy as the bb's start to spread after 60 or so feet. Easy fix though...bring a cleaning rod and some cloths with you...give it a quick swab and your good to go.
G&G GR15 CQB barrel length is 233mm...any mp5 length (229) will work perfectly in it.
First of all both ICS and G&G are made in Taiwan. If you're going to be playing CQB get the ICS MP5, if woodland/field get the G&G M14. Both are great guns internally and externally. Either one is a great choice.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-5th-gen-2-7x32-1inch-long-eye-relief-scope-ts-platform.html
It's not 3-9x but it will be great nonetheless. It's got great eye relief and good price. Hope this helped.
Check the wire terminals that connect to the motor. If one becomes loose the electrical circuit is cut...hence no noise when depressing the trigger. It probly vibrated loose.
I would get the G&G GR16 or ICS M4A1...I think you would like them more than the Classic Army. They have a far better internal build quality than the CA.
Externally they're made of the same material...just a slightly different logo. Internally the Combat Machine has a different cylinder, a non functional charging handle. The Combat Machine has a one piece outer barrel to which the front sight is permanently attached. Other than that they're basically the same gun. The Plastica series does have a functional charging handle to access the hop up...The choice is yours. Either gun is a good gun.
I have this exact EOtech 552 replica. They're worth they money. However in bright environments the reticule will be washed out. The lenses are also very reflective...it takes some getting use to. Mine also was very hard to adjust...but that could have just been mine.
In airsoft replica holosights they essentially are fancy red dot sights. A red/green LED is reflected off of mirrored glass/plastic...this is the dot/ reticule you see. On a real holosight the reticule is projected out infront of the sight. This gives the holosight an advantage over a red dot as there is no parallax.
What you're referring to are bushings. There are two different types of bushings. One being a ball bearing and the other being solid. Unless you're giving your gun an overhaul either a ball bearing bushing (7-9mm) or a solid metal bushing (6-8mm) will be great for most set ups. Typically you use the ball bearings if you want to build a gun with a higher ROF and solid bushings for higher FPS set ups. If your gun doesnt fall into the extreme (450+fps or 25rps) you shouldnt have a problem with either.
They both have relatively the same performance out of the box. Both can be customized externally to fit your need. Internally they're also very well constructed. Both can use standard V2 upgrade parts but the ICS uses the split gearbox design and thus is harder to work on. The G&G uses a standard V2 shell outfitted with the pneumatic blowback system. It's a tad harder to work on than a non blowback V2 but you shouldnt encounter any problems. They're both equally great guns to have but the G&G has more upgrade potential than the ICS. The choice is yours. Either way a good one.
It will drain your battery faster than an exact model without the electronic blow back. The E1 Wolverine has a mechanical blow back system which means that the piston and "bolt" are connected. When the piston moves back the "bolt" moves back. It gives a more realistic blow back action than the pneumatic blow back system but is consequently more stressful on the gearbox.
Golden Ball is some of the best ammo I've used in airsoft. Second to that are Airsoft Elite and Madbull. G&G is also very good. You've probly heard of TSD ammo...I didnt have very good results with it...I didnt have any jams but the bb's weight wasnt evenly distributed so needless to say I had alot of "fliers". I would try out a bag of Golden Ball...and if they work just place a bulk order. Hope this helped!
The Umarex (G&G) or G&G MP5's are the best on the market. Second to that are the ICS MP5's. You can find them at most online retailers. I've seen to many Classic Army's MP5s' gearbox fail within 5000rds...kinda iffy if you ask me.
It depends on how much you shoot, how much MaH the battery has, and discharge rate of the battery. I would say 2-3hrs of use with a small type 11.1v lipo.
The G&G guns (Combat Machine is a sub branch of G&G). Also a few things to consider are the accessories you will need along with your purchase...bb's, batteries, smart charger, spare magazines etc.
I would say they're pretty comparable. I know the Combat Machines are easier to work on (unless you know how to work on the split V2 gearboxes) and are cheaper. But either choice would be a good choice.
The G&G sportline and Combat Machine lineup do not come with tightbore barrels. Only their higher end AEG's come with 6.035mm tightbores. However this doesnt mean that the sportlines or combat machines are inaccurate. They have good barrels with good hop-up bucking.
The wires are getting caught in between the stock and the buffer tube. Remove the stock and play around with the wires so they flow smoothly from the stock through the buffer tube. That should solve your problem.
Personally I wouldn't even bother with the spring unless you're going to change out gears and/or motors. If you want an increase in fps without straining the guns internals you simply fix or enlarge the air seal components. A Systema silent piston head and cylinder head coupled with a tightbore barrel would/could increase your fps 20- 50. But...if you still want a more powerful spring I wouldnt go above an m120.
The piston is binding inside the mechbox...causing current to flow through the wiring harness but causing no movement. Check the sides of the piston and the angle of engagement with the sector gear.
You'll need a new high torque gearet and a new high torque motor. Changing the hop-up bucking to a harder one is recommended but not completely necessary. You're looking at about $100 or so for the upgrades. Good Luck!
I don't think it's 100% silicone. It most likely contains petroleum distillates. If you use it to lube your hop up/ clean your barrel you should be fine.
You'll have about the same range and power as the barrels are very close to the same length. Internally they're both rock solid so it boils down to which you like more. I would go with the M14...there are way to many M4's and M16's now adays...I am one of them but eh I like the platform.
Yes that will fit on your GR16. And yes you can run wires through it to a PEQ box. And at the back of the rail you'll notice the mounting plate. It's pretty straight forward. If you dont want to hassle with actually installing it look at the Madbull Omega rails. They just slip into where the handguards are...tighten a couple screws and you're done.
RPM,ROF, and BPS are all dependent on the battery you're using. The GR16A3 rifle will have a longer effective range due to a slight increase in fps over the carbine as well as a longer barrel and full cylinder. My GR16A3 rifle clocked in around 400fps with a 6.01 tightbore.
Mine was chrono'ed by ASGI at 360 fps when it arrived. I believe it was higher than that but it's really tough to say. I installed a 6.01mm tightbore and it was shooting around the 400 fps range.
I would buy a good polycarbonate piston (G&P, G&G, Systema etc). Silent piston heads do not damped the sound to the shooter only the person you're shooting at. You will still hear turning gears and motor whine regardless.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_107&products_id=2834
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_24_107&products_id=3434
Here are a couple of options. They really are worth the money.
6.01mm tightbore barrels are not bad for an AEG. I've had them in mine since I bought them. I wouldnt recommend getting a longer barrel than the stock one. If you can find the Madbull ones in stock I would highly recommend them. I havent had any problems with mine. If you can't find them go with the Masamune 6.01mm.
You wouldnt need to replace any of the other components. The only thing you would/should change would be the hop-up bucking. You'll need to go with a softer one to compensate for the drop in FPS. And changing the spring will shorten your range. However a tightbore and good hop-up bucking can pick up the slack.
Yes it will fit in the G&G GR16. It essentially replaces the polymer handguards that come with it. However you wont be able to fit a battery inside it with the RIS. You'll have to run the wires to a PEQ2 battery box.
Glock has a copyright and silhouette patents on their products. Unless the airsoft manufacturer has gotten permission to use the Glock trademark and design you wont see them. Even the illegal ones were caught a few years ago. If you can find one buy it as they are very hard to come by.
Both are possible. However the Combat Machine's gearbox is solid as it is. You could upgrade/replace some of the internal components but there really isnt a need to replace the entire thing. The Combat Machine body can be changed over to the Magpul metal body. You'll have to look at how the gearbox and other components fit the Magpul body. You might have to modify the body slightly...ie sanding, filing etc. Good luck!
They're made out of 6061 Aluminum alloy. G&G's first production run (and some of their current line) used magnesium to make their metal receivers. They changed it due to the brittleness of magnesium and opted for a stronger aluminum alloy. The fit and finish is great on their pro-line m4/m16's. I own two of them and possibly getting a third. Good luck!
No it wont fit. The reason being is that the JG/TM guns use their own style of delta rings. The G&G/Combat Machines use real style delta rings. I would highly recommend saving some more money and getting the Madbull Daniel Defense Omega RIS.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=25_106_286&products_id=31496
Get the G&G silver wiring harness. If you want to save money all you would need is a sodering iron. Just flip the wires and run them the other direction and resoder to the switch(trigger).
The only thing temperature has an (noticeable) effect on is the hop-up rubber. The colder the temp the stiffer the rubber. When this happens the performance of the hop-up changes and you'll have to apply more or less depending on the temperature.
I've owned a KJW M9 Elite and it was a great gun for the money. However the downside to them is that the mags have a pretty significant design flaw which causes them to leak. If you have the budget I would buy the KWA M9. If you don't have the budget buy the KJW but purchase WE M9 mags instead of the KJW.
It really boils down to preference. If you like the style and feel of the M9 get the M9. I would save more money for a higher quality M9 ex. KJW or WE M9. And remember to get a propane adapter.
Metal bushings are a great upgrade to increase the life of your AK. The size of the bushing depends on the size of your gearbox bushing ports. My G&G GR-16 has 8mm ball bearings while my old JG M16 had 6mm brass bushings. To save money I recommend JBU 6 or 7mm steel bushings. As for the MOSFET get one with active breaking and one that fits within your budget. I would also add a tightbore and new systema hop-up bucking. If the hop-up unit works then there is no need to replace it.
Here are some links : Good luck!
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_53&products_id=5158 (7mm bushings)
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_53&products_id=3625 (6mm bushings)
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_170&products_id=421 (Systema Bucking)
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_55&products_id=1232 (Madbull 6.03 TBB)
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_168&products_id=6869 (Bravo Mosfet)
The marker bb's have a coating on the outside of them (obviously) that leaves the marks. This also will gum up your magazines and your barrel. It's an easy fix. Just open them up and give them a good cleaning and you'll be good as new.
both are great guns considering the price. I would opt for the Combat Machine RK 47 just because it's barrel and hop up are superior. Internally (reliability) they're both about equal. I've played against a CYMA that has easily over 100,000rds passed through it.
The G&G's internals are far superior also. It's just that I've seen CYMA's that will refuse to die. I agree with everyone here. Get the Combat Machine. Externally it's far sturdier and the internals are made of higher quality materials.
The lipo would be worse for your gun. It's all dependent on the voltage rating (11.1v lipo vs 9.6v) and the discharge rate (10c - 20c etc). Could a gun survive or be broken with either battery? Absolutely. If you don't lay on the trigger for longer than 2-3 seconds your gun will have a long life. With the exception of KWA stock gun's cannot properly handle the voltage of a 11.1v lipo and hence torches the wiring harness and possibly the motor. Another problem that can occur is that the non-lipo ready gun's stock motor discharges the lipo at a faster rate than it can handle. When this happens the battery can ignite torching the gun (potentially). This doesnt happen to often but it can occur.
It sounds like the bucking could be misaligned. Take out the hop-up unit and reinstall the barrel. Before putting it back into the receiver check and see if the "hop" is being applied correctly. It might take a couple of times so be patient. Good luck!
It sounds to me like you're outer barrel is defective (sorta). I say that because when you tighten down those retention screws near the base of the outer barrel it's suppose to hold it in alignment. Obviously yours isn't doing this. I've owned this exact grenade launcher and It is far heftier than it seems. One thing you could try is to JB Weld the outer barrel (or epoxy it) to the top receiver. Just make sure it's in alignment when you do this (for obvious reasons). That'd be the cheapest way I can think of. If you dont want to risk that I'd recommend a new outer barrel. Madbull has a good line of them. Good luck!
Here are some links. The actually installation of the outer barrel is quite easy. The hardest part is putting on the triangle front sight. I would opt for a gas block instead. (Unless you like the triangle front sight appearance.)
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_308&products_id=2726
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_65&products_id=6487
I wouldn't even bother with a Li-po if you dont have a KWA. G&G are not set up for 11.1V li=po batteries. I would opt for a small 10.8V (if you must). Or if you still want an increase in ROF a new motor is the cheapest and easiest way to go.
I would recommend these batteries. They're 9.6V 2000mah nunchuck style batteries. They fit in the front handguard by bridging the outer barrel.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_47&products_id=2772
Go with the CYMA. Crossman makes good bb guns but not quality airsoft guns. I think you'd be more satisfied with the CYMA. There are also more parts available for it giving you a little more flexibility.
I've owned an M9 Elite and currently own the 1911 tactical by KJW. The M9 was good but the mags tended to break. If you decide to get the M9 get WE M9 or Tokyo Marui mags for it. The 1911 Tactical (so far) works great.
This mount will allow you to mount it to the top rail AND mount inside the carrying handle.
http://www.opticsplanet.net/leapers-3-points-eye-relief-adjustable-integral-carry-handle-ring-mount-complete-with.html
It does clear the front triangle sight.
The high profile rings aren't adjustable. That carry handle mount I gave you the link for can fit any scope (or red dot scope) that has a 1 inch diameter tube. When you go to the link click on the "Leapers rifle scope rings and bases hotlink. There are plenty of options for you. Good luck!
Yep you're on the right track my friend. I have the proline G&G GR16 and I use these batteries:
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_47&products_id=2772
I'm sure you'll like them!
They don't add them to their Combat Machine line to keep costs down. Their professional line (including Top Tech) have them. They're 6.035mm in diameter. That's not to say that the Combat Machine isn't an accurate gun right out of the box, I've owned one. They use a standard 6.08mm barrel, however their barrels (as compared to let's say a JG barrel) are far superior. Couple that with G&G's green bucking and they make for one accurate gun.
Changing the stock is actually an easy task. You shouldnt have any problems doing it. Re-wiring can be tricky...but essentially all you have to do is open the gearbox...flip the wire terminals so they run to the front and close up the gearbox. If you dont want to risk opening the gearbox buy an external battery pouch that can attach to the Magpul stocks. You can fit a large 10.8V in some of the pouches. Good luck!
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_48&products_id=4534&osCsid=sbfkhrq23dmi7jk9org1nlcok3
I've had this one for over a year without any issues whatsoever.
Most all AEG mags are compatible with the CA M4CQB. If you're looking at the King Arms high capacity magazines or the Magpul brand mid capacity magazines they will work just fine.
They're essentially the same thing. RIS (Rail Interface System) and RAS (Rail Adapter System) do the same thing. The rails have the same mil-spec dimensions (or at least they should have).
Unless you're changing out the old KWA bucking and not the 2GX bucking you should be ok. The new 2GX bucking is the best hop-up bucking in airsoft (currently and for higher fps set ups). You shouldnt need to change it if there isnt anything wrong with it.
No a KWA M9's mag will not work in a KJW M9. KWA's guns use mags that are proprietary to them. However a Tokyo Marui, WE, and any Marui compatible M9 mag will work in the KJW M9 series.
I would get a Systema Genuine Ratio Gear set (I stripped my pro-line G&G's M16's spur gear due to the high speed/high stress of a large 9.6V battery) a 6.01mm tightbore barrel, a systema silent piston head, a G&P white polycarb piston. That might be a little more than 150 (I didnt add everything up) but you'll get long life out of your gun due to no added stress on the internals and an increase in air pressure (silent head sets seal great...no air leaks) and the 6.01mm tightbore adds to this also. Good luck man!
I've owned both of these barrels in previous guns. The manufacturing process for Madbull tightbore barrels is of very high quality. I would agree with the rest of those who answered. Get the madbull. It wont let you down.
You dont necessarily need one if you play on semi and that often. All the fuse's job is to do is to protect the motor/wiring harness from being torched by the battery. You shouldn't run into any problems. You're gun is ready to go. No worries.
It's not a bad scope but it's got short eye relief. If you're going to wear a full facemask the mask might impede your ability to look down the scope. www.opticsplanet.com for great scope deals.
They're two totally different mags. The M93R mags are designed for full auto use so the loading nozzle at the top of the mag is designed differently than a regular M9. Check out evike.com for 51rd mags for M9's.
Their quality is slightly better than JG. If you're looking for great airsoft guns under $200 check out the G&G sportline (plastica) or Combat Machine. Great external and internal quality.
Check out the Madbull Noveske KFH adjustable flashhider. You really don't need the internals of the gun to be louder. Most of the time if the internals are making alot of noise it's due to misalignment of one or more components. Here's the link for the flashhider.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_304&products_id=3730
No they do not. They take their own special barrel due to the PSG1's unique hop up unit. Here's the link:
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_55&products_id=1229
Good luck man
1. That battery will be too large to fit in the stock. The QD sling attachment points near the front of the stock will actually stop the battery from going any further. I have this battery and it fits into my Pro-line G&G GR-16A3 with ease. I've also owned a JG SR-16 that had the stock that is pictured with the G4A3TC. You should however be able to fit a large 8.4V.
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_46&products_id=3374
You'll still have a great ROF and plenty of juice to go all day. Good luck man!
I would recommend any of the G&G pro-line guns. The KWA guns are great too but should something break you'll have compatibility problems. The G&G GR-16's for example use the standard V2 gearbox and are 100% Marui compatible so upgrades or repairs are cheap and easy. You won't have to upgrade/repair your gun if you dont abuse it. Don't hold down the trigger for more than 3 seconds, clean the barrel etc. If you take care of your gun a G&G will easily last 3-4 years.
It's a pain...It's still a Marui design so it's a tad more complex than some others. Look at the G&G MP5's. They use the 3 pin design for quick takedown. Good luck!
Like clayyalc said...you'll be happier in the long run with it. It also field strips just like the real thing if you like the realism aspect. Good luck!
Like crazyNCman said...you dont need an m190 spring. The power output of an m190 would be close to 700fps...which wouldnt be considered an airsoft gun anymore. If you did buy all the internal upgrades I think you would be disappointed as you would encounter frequent problems.
If you're looking for a realistic AK...The G&G RK103 is the way to go. Sturdy externally as well as internally the gun also field strips like the real thing. It's got good range, accuracy, and power. Good luck!
Just like Clayyalc said, they're excellent weapons. I've put over 20,000 through mine in a matter of 2 months and have yet to encounter a problem. In my own opinion they're the best M4 variant on the market and are cheaper than lets say the KWA. I purchased mine with a 6.01mm tightbore for the same price as a KWA M4.
a low cap (low capacity magazine) has 50 rounds or less in each magazine and you're not required to wind it. A mid cap (middle capacity magazine) uses the same principle but has more than 75 rounds per magazine. A high cap (high capacity magazine) can hold 200+ rounds in each magazine. To feed the bb's into the gun requires winding the wheel on the bottom of the magazine. Good luck!
I would go with choice #4 if you're wanting to put the AFG on the bottom rail. It's a Combat Machine base so the build quality is excellent internally and externally. It's also the cheapest.
If he's going to spend $70 to fix it....getting a new gun is the most sensible option. If you're not confident in cracking open a gearbox don't do it just yet. If and when he gets a new one then crack it open and see how everything works.
Mako makes accessories for real guns. They're plenty sturdy. As for choice the AFG is cool...but really not necessary for airsoft. It's designed to promote proper body mechanics to control recoil...and since airsoft guns dont have recoil (for the most part) it's not necessary. It's also over priced in my opinion. I would go with the King Arms or the Mako...save some money. Good luck!
I've owned various lengths of the 6.03 Madbull Black Python barrels and I never had a problem. I'm currently running their new 6.01mm tightbore in my G&G GR-16A3 pro-line...havent had a problem or jam yet. Good luck!
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=139_25_86&products_id=3789
It's a KJW M1911 Tactical pistol. It comes with both green and CO2 mag. It's able to take both. Good luck!
I've had great success with the new Madbull 6.01's. No problems what so ever 7000+ rounds fired through. I'd say give them a try...they're about half the price of a edgi, dbc, or Prometheus.
I would highly recommend the G&G R4 Plastica. I own 2 pro-line G&G GR16's and have owned the Plastica M4. The internals are nearly the same. The differences being that the pro-line series have a ball bearing spring guide, ball bearing piston head, 8mm ball bearing bushings, 6.035mm tightbore. The plastica series dont have ball bearings for the piston or spring guide, however they do have a washer that essentially does the same thing. Those 4 internal components are the ONLY differences internally. Externally...well...it's obvious. They're very reliable airsoft guns. I'm willing to bet that if you buy it...it might be the only one you'll need for a very long time. Good luck man!
Yes. I highly recommend getting Marui mags for your KJW M9. When I had the KJW M9 Elite I broke 3 of the mags without abusing them. Look for mags with solid pins near the bottom of the mag. Good luck!
They're not terrible they just dont have a good quality control system for their products. I would stick to more reputable websites ie. Airsoftcarolina, airsoftatlanta, airsoftgi, tacticalairsoftsupply, evike, etc. I purchased 7 of my guns from them....all of which I dont own anymore. They did send me one that had a broken hop up, gearbox lasted 200 rounds before it broke, and the RIS was broken....I hope this helped. Good luck!
Either the Systema Magnum motor or the G&P M160 motor. You'll need a large type battery 9.6V + to get these motors running. Just be sure to re-enforce all of the other components of your gearbox. Good luck!
The only differences (I'm not sure if they're pros or cons...I guess you'll be the judge) are that the open bolt gives your a more realistic look and a stronger recoil. However this comes at the price of gas efficiency. Other than that they're pretty much the same. Good luck man!
Where the selector lever pivots downward is where the screw is. It's probly under a metal cap to protect the screw. All you have to do is remove this cap and use a Phillips head screwdriver to tighten it. Good luck!
They're very reliable inside and out. I've owned both the plastica and the pro-line G&G's. The differences between them are fairly minimal, just the materials used. If you're looking for a great gun that will last you awhile go for the G&G R4. Good luck!
I agree with Ghillieboy101. I actually asked the same question. I got my G&G GR-16A3 (M16A3) and a Madbull 6.01mm tightbore for $10 less than the KWA. The choice is yours. They're both great guns. Good luck!
A great m16 is the G&G GR-16A3 and A2 models. They're $260 most places and for 40-50 more you can get a 6.01mm tightbore. I have this set up and it works great! Good luck!
If you clean them before or after every game and use good quality bb's you'll never see a jam. Check out airsoftgi's line of 6.01mm tightbores.
www.airsoftgi.com - internal upgrades - 6.01mm barrels
This battery will give you an increase in rate of fire (high discharge rate) and last a long long time (3600mah).
http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_46&products_id=3374
They shouldnt require any special tools. If you're still worried about installing a RIS check out the Madbull Omega rails. They replace the handguards on your M4/M16. Just drop them in and tighten them down. Good luck!
Go with the VFC. It's full metal, has a functioning bolt/bolt catch, and has the power & range you'll need with a 510mm barrel. You'd have to upgrade the marui to get both guns on equal ground. Good Luck!
It's a good gun (if you can find it) but I feel it's way over priced. The internals are mediocre in quality and the externals are about the same. If it were priced around $150 - 200 dollar mark I would say buy it. I think if you get it...you'll be disappointed in not getting your moneys worth. If you really want an ACR wait until the actual Magpul PTS Masada comes out. Good Luck!